4320 issues

Howard H.

Well-known Member
I’ve got a nice old 4320 that’s always started easy and ran great, but has been sitting a couple of years and I’ve only sparingly used it in 10 or more years.

Went to start it and it ran fine for a half mile going down the road and then starting pulling down and died. Fired right back up, but then did it again after just 100 feet or so.

Dragged it up to the barn and checked the filter for water, etc, and noticed when I put it back on (one of the glass square filters) that it wasn’t filling back up.

Thinking it was a bad lift transfer pump, I replaced it - and that DID fix the filter not filling issue, but it still starts and then dies.

I replaced the filter with a new one and it seems to be getting pressurized fuel to the stanadyne, but not sure why it starts so easy, but then pulls down and dies.

What should I check now??

Thanks,
Howard
 

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I’ve got a nice old 4320 that’s always started easy and ran great, but has been sitting a couple of years and I’ve only sparingly used it in 10 or more years.

Went to start it and it ran fine for a half mile going down the road and then starting pulling down and died. Fired right back up, but then did it again after just 100 feet or so.

Dragged it up to the barn and checked the filter for water, etc, and noticed when I put it back on (one of the glass square filters) that it wasn’t filling back up.

Thinking it was a bad lift transfer pump, I replaced it - and that DID fix the filter not filling issue, but it still starts and then dies.

I replaced the filter with a new one and it seems to be getting pressurized fuel to the stanadyne, but not sure why it starts so easy, but then pulls down and dies.

What should I check now??

Thanks,
Howard
Brother in law had a 4320 that acted similarly and it ended up being the cam ring coming apart in the injection pump. An easy way to verify that is the issue is to loosen up the timing window cover on the side of the injection pump. You also will see some coffee grounds material built up behind window. you may rig up a pan to catch fuel leaking from window. Ultimately you will have to have pump rebuilt. Dieseltech is another poster on this site that has done good work on injection pumps. Steve.
 
Sounds like the flex ring in the pump is deteriorating and plugging the return line.

I hope you had the trans in TOW position while dragging it back to the barn. Top shaft repairs aren't cheap.
 
Sounds like the flex ring in the pump is deteriorating and plugging the return line.

I hope you had the trans in TOW position while dragging it back to the barn. Top shaft repairs aren't cheap.

yes - thanks... I know about the Tow. We only pulled it 100 feet or so in off the road.



I appreciate the suggestions - I'll look behind that window to check for the deteriorating seal...
 
I’ve got a nice old 4320 that’s always started easy and ran great, but has been sitting a couple of years and I’ve only sparingly used it in 10 or more years.

Went to start it and it ran fine for a half mile going down the road and then starting pulling down and died. Fired right back up, but then did it again after just 100 feet or so.

Dragged it up to the barn and checked the filter for water, etc, and noticed when I put it back on (one of the glass square filters) that it wasn’t filling back up.

Thinking it was a bad lift transfer pump, I replaced it - and that DID fix the filter not filling issue, but it still starts and then dies.

I replaced the filter with a new one and it seems to be getting pressurized fuel to the stanadyne, but not sure why it starts so easy, but then pulls down and dies.

What should I check now??

Thanks,
Howard
Likely, it's the governor damper ring, but sometimes crap in the tank plugs the line.

Remove the line from the lift pump and blow backwards (with the fuel cap loose) and se if that makes a temporary improvement.
 
Likely, it's the governor damper ring, but sometimes crap in the tank plugs the line.

Remove the line from the lift pump and blow backwards (with the fuel cap loose) and se if that makes a temporary improvement.
If you loosen the timing window and it runs fine I would consider any time devoted to checking fuel delivery to the pump as wasted.
 
Injection pump needs removed for repair, the weight retainer ring is failing inside and the small bits are plugging the return valve which WILL cause pump to shut down. Wait a few minutes and it will start fine again and then stall again. DO NOT knock the return line ball out and keep running it or you WILL shear the retainer pins inside, then seize the hydraulic head and break the drive shaft.
 
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