52 running like garbage all of a sudden

[Sigma.40]

Two snows ago, my 8N ran great until the very end of my plowing when it started wanting to die in reverse. I thought it was because I was low on fuel so I shut it down, ran to the gas station, and then filled it up. Ran good.

One snow ago, it ran awful all the time (sputtering, wanting to stall) until I pulled the choke partway out and it ran good the entire time I was plowing.

Two days ago, fired up on choke and died immediately when I turned off the choke. On full choke, it would die after about 20 seconds of running like garbage.

It’s got a full tank of fresh fuel and the carb is getting a steady flow of fuel. Plugs and wires are brand new. Carb rebuild time?

This post was edited by Sigma.40 on 02/04/2023 at 05:59 am.

 

[Abbby]

Please explain how you determined carb has a steady slow of fuel? If you pull the plug on the bottom of the carb you should fill a pint jar in under 2 minutes

 

[Lynn Patrick]

You say "It s got a full tank of fresh fuel and the carb is getting a steady flow of fuel." Is the fuel only getting TO the carb or does it actually get INTO the carb? Have you pulled the plug out of the bottom of the carb & done the 2 minute test to see how it continues after the bowl is empty?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

As soon as the tractor starts running poorly, not 5 minutes later, check for spark, fuel and battery voltage.

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

What is the EXACT voltage at the battery? ( yes, you need a multimeter for that, not a worthless light)

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work.
Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

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[rvirgil_KS]

If it cut out while moving snow I would check for moisture in distributor/ignition system.

Also check condition of points and points gap

 

[Eman85]

The running with the choke seems to indicate fuel problems. Until you do a fuel flow test by removing the plug at the bottom of the carb and measuring flow it's all guessing. Be sure to remove the plug and let the bowl drain with the fuel shut off. Then open the fuel and measure.
There's a screen in the tank, a screen in the fuel filter and one at the fuel inlet fitting on the carburetor.
If you suspected low fuel the shutoff has a reserve position.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

The carb flow test through the drain plug is a very important test but DOES NOT prove that the carb is functioning properly. It only proves that adequate fuel is making it to and through the needle and seat.
It is not uncommon with these cast iron carb bowels to find rust flakes and debris that originated in the bowel itself.
If all else fails, remove, clean and blow out the carb bowl and passages. I have had to do this a couple of times over the years with instant improvement.

 

[Jim L WA]

Running better with partial choke can also mean weak spark.

 

[Sigma.40]

(quoted from post at 07:07:29 02/04/23) Please explain how you determined carb has a steady slow of fuel? If you pull the plug on the bottom of the carb you should fill a pint jar in under 2 minutes

No. I meant TO the carb. I did t pull the plug. I will now, though.

 

[Sigma.40]

(quoted from post at 07:44:53 02/04/23) As soon as the tractor starts running poorly, not 5 minutes later, check for spark, fuel and battery voltage.

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4 in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

What is the EXACT voltage at the battery? ( yes, you need a multimeter for that, not a worthless light)

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you dont own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap ( NOT a light) buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least will work.
Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

Amazon.com: The Best DealOriGlam Spark Plug Tester, Adjustable Ignition System Coil Tester, Coil-on Plug Ignition Spark Circuit Tester, Autos Diagnostic
Test Tool : Automotive
75 Tips

I’ll check voltage and spark on Monday. I have a Snap On multimeter and spark tester but I left them at work.

FWIW- 99% of my knowledge is on computer controlled engines. The more computer controlled they are, the better I can find issues. These carbureted engines are a bit of a mystery to me lol

This post was edited by Sigma.40 on 02/04/2023 at 11:06 am.

 

[Sigma.40]

(quoted from post at 10:58:51 02/04/23) Running better with partial choke can also mean weak spark.

Honestly, my brain went right to a carb/fuel issue but yes, it could be spark. I ll test spark on Monday when I get my tester from work.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

...Two snows ago... - that can mean two days or two years... ; > ) GRIN! 6V or 12V? Many carb/fuel issues are really electrical issues and vice versa. Moisture
could have gotten in the distributor but this is more prone on the front mount distributor. Don't rule it out though. Others already suggested the Fuel Flow Test so if
it passed, as Harry said, it does not mean the carb couldn't use a rebuild but if you test and pull brass elbow inlet from fuel line to carb and clean filter, leave
unit alone and move on to electrical. Poor/cracked/corroded wires, plugs especially, can get wet too. You say new plugs, B4 or after this choke issue? Did you get the
firing order correct? N's have a 1, 2, 4, 3 CCW firing order. Have you mucked with any of the carb settings? Is the tractor kept in a barn or shed or exposed outside?
A nice, heated, warm sheltered tractor can help dry things out too. Don't replace any more parts until you know what the true root cause problem is. Go thru entire
wiring after Fuel Flow Test and pull carb for a rebuild last if needed and don't mess with any settings yet. Use your Essential Manuals for carb settings when you do.
You'll find you shouldn't have to deviate much if any from initial manual spec settings. One mistake many make is to start playing with the mix screws willy-nilly.
Always clock them B4 you start turning screws and you have to make small, 1/8-1/4 turns at time and WAIT until engine speed catches up.

Tim Daley(MI)