695 case tractor clutch problem

[shadylanecows]

Hi all , I have a 1993 case 695 4x4 loader tractor with cab . The clutch appears to no longer work. The shuttle works , if I start the tractor in gear , it will move back and forth. The clutch does not let me put it in gear , just grinds. How do I go about fixing this ? Is it an easy clutch to replace ? are there common problems . And .... what would a new clutch install cost ?

 

[495man]

Clutch job needed. Clutch kit and replace or resurface flywheel.

Tractor will need split. Loader and mounts need to come off, cab should be ok.

No idea on current prices, think clutch job on 495 (no cab, 2wd & loader) was $1500 parts & labor several years ago, but I'd have to dig through paperwork.

 

[wore out]

Hi all , I have a 1993 case 695 4x4 loader tractor with cab . The clutch appears to no longer work. The shuttle works , if I start the tractor in gear , it will move back and forth. The clutch does not let me put it in gear , just grinds. How do I go about fixing this ? Is it an easy clutch to replace ? are there common problems . And .... what would a new clutch install cost ?

AFAIK, this tractor has a "hydraulic clutch".

Have you checked to be sure it has fluid and the slave cylinder is moving along as the clutch pedal is depressed?

The Operator's Manual should give details on checking the clutch fluid level, possibly a plastic reservoir in the "dash".

Be SURE to consult the Operator's Manual or a knowledgeable dealership person as to what fluid to use, SOME of these tractors use clutch and brake fluids that are incompatible with common automotive brake fluids and the seals will be RUINED if the wrong fluid is used.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Hi all , I have a 1993 case 695 4x4 loader tractor with cab . The clutch appears to no longer work. The shuttle works , if I start the tractor in gear , it will move back and forth. The clutch does not let me put it in gear , just grinds. How do I go about fixing this ? Is it an easy clutch to replace ? are there common problems . And .... what would a new clutch install cost ?

Free advice is easy to find and worth every penny. No one out here can tell what your clutch pedal "feels" like, how much free play (if any) it has, or maybe hear any unusual sounds when the throw out bearing is actually in use. You have to pass that information on or the replies won't mean or help much.

That said, your problem COULD be as simple as a stuck clutch disc, although button discs don't stick nearly as often as fiber lined plates. I believe your disc is the button type, but can't confirm that. It could also be a release lever related issue. There is probably a cove on the bottom of the clutch housing you can remove and look up inside. You should be able to see if all three levers are intact and all look the same. Reach up and feel the throw out bearing to see if it's free and smooth. Maybe feel around on the bottom for any loose metal parts that might be in there.

See what that tells you and go from there. If all that checks out you might try some of the more common "stuck clutch" tricks.

 

[used red MN]

Free advice is easy to find and worth every penny. No one out here can tell what your clutch pedal "feels" like, how much free play (if any) it has, or maybe hear any unusual sounds when the throw out bearing is actually in use. You have to pass that information on or the replies won't mean or help much.

That said, your problem COULD be as simple as a stuck clutch disc, although button discs don't stick nearly as often as fiber lined plates. I believe your disc is the button type, but can't confirm that. It could also be a release lever related issue. There is probably a cove on the bottom of the clutch housing you can remove and look up inside. You should be able to see if all three levers are intact and all look the same. Reach up and feel the throw out bearing to see if it's free and smooth. Maybe feel around on the bottom for any loose metal parts that might be in there.

See what that tells you and go from there. If all that checks out you might try some of the more common "stuck clutch" tricks.

Hello shady, welcome to YT! The “stuck clutch tricks” Harry mentioned will only apply if the machine has set unused a while probably would have to be a couple months in a fairly humid area. Otherwise, a lot of the items given to check are good. Some explanation of how it got to this point would also be helpful.

 

[JimB2]

Hi, as another Member mentioned since you have a cab on you 695, it has a hydraulic clutch and the hydraulic part is the first place to check.
See a couple pages below from an CIH Service manual.
There is an inspection plate at bottom of clutch housing but since you have a 4X4 the cover for front drive shaft will have to be removed to access the inspection plate. If you have a helper, put on parking brake, chock rear wheels and look at clutch mechanism through the inspection plate and have helper depress clutch pedal and see if clutch release bearing is depressing the fingers on the pressure plate.
According to CIH manual your 695 should have the 12 inch Rockford clutch but may have the 11 inch Laycock version. When you look through the inspection plate you can tell which model clutch by comparing to photo in the pages below. Common failures are clutch release bearing seizing and wearing off the ends of the fingers or finger adjustment screw backing off.
My brother and I have down several clutch jobs on these IH Doncaster, UK built tractors but never done with a cab or 4x4, have done a couple with loaders.

Parts are available from this website

 

[Texasmark]

On my newly acquired Case-IH 895, there is a sheet metal panel/cover between the windshield and top and sides of the instrument frame mounting on my XL cab. Don't know if the regular cab is any different here or not. Twist retainers on either side. Remove it and you are looking down at the fuse panels and the clutch fluid reservoir.

The low-full marks are on the side of the opaque plastic fluid container sitting on top of the cylinder that forces the clutch to function. Special note in the serv. manual, and on the side of that container to use Hy Trans "extra" fluid. The difference between full and add fluid is only about 1/4". Don't know the source for the "extra" rating on that fluid.