Calling Sprint6 and HoboNC

[UncleTom]

I was wondering if i could pick your brain and experience on a Toyota Tundra 2010 with 200,000 miles on it. My son lives in Alaska and he is trying to fix this himself. The brakes are not up to par. They feel like they maybe a little spongy in them and maybe have to push a little harder than normal. Its been a while since we have talked about it so i hope i am still accurately describing it. He has all good rotors on it and pads. He just changed the master cylinder and all of the brake hoses. There are 6 hoses and used the steel braided ones. Bleed all the brakes numerous times. We now think it could be the brake booster but im not there so i dont know if it is. He took it to Toyota and they checked the thing out and blead all the brakes again. They say it is the antilock brake valve but wont guarantee it is at $3000. Could it be the brake booster? That he could change himself but would like to fix it rather than keep guessing.He hears no hissing of vacum and it sure does sounds like an old ford i had and the booster fixed it. What do you guys think? He still drives it but does pull a camper with it and we both want a 100% brakes.

 

[504]

Checking the booster is as easy as with the truck turned off, pump the brake pedal three or four times, hold the pedal down and start the engine. If the pedal goes down the booster is fine. If it doesnt drop replace the booster. Without looking at it I would look hard at the caliper pins/sliders. The calipers have to move freely .

 

[Sprint 6]

Push in the rear calipers completely and make sure they go in easily and that the rear calipers will slide and the pads can move in the bracket. Also push in all four pistons on the front calipers, they should all be easy, and make sure the front pads will move in the caliper body and on the pins. The rear calipers on Tundras are rarely a problem, but I rarely fins the front calipers any good on high mile Tundras. Usually on the front, one or more pistons will be tight and/or the pads will be bound in the caliper body or on the pins. I always feel for my Tundra customers when it's time for brakes, gets real spendy real quick.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Its just a process of elimination are where I would start. A few things can bite ya.

You say "They feel like they maybe a little spongy in them and maybe have to push a little harder than normal."

I understand spongy as its a common complaint "see what Sprint 6 posted."

Re-find "push harder'' the normal complaint is a lower than normal brake pedal.

Alaska, do they use salt are just deal with the ice. I did a brake job on a Canadian vehicle my god how can anyone put up with salt!!! It came back the next summer the brake pads were rusty and frozen up. I over-killed lubing everything replaced the pads rotors and told them good luck...

 

[gears]

I had a friends Toyota (4runner) the dealer said was fine, I found the front calipers inboard pistons were seized. New calipers & pads from Rockauto fixed it. It barely stopped before I replaced them. Friend & more importantly, his wife, were thrilled.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Another test for the booster is turn off truck, wait 60 seconds. Step on brake pedal. It should still have power assist.

 

[UncleTom]

The great thing about Alaska is they use NO salt. Vehicles all look rust free to me.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Diagnostic procedure.

1. Check all caliper and brake pad hardware are clean and lubricated.

2. Block off all calipers by clamping lines, see if brake pedal firms up. If it does, there could be air in the calipers or faulty calipers. Remove the calipers and install a solid chunk of iron between the pads. Pump the pedal up, if it firms up there might be an issue with the pad slides or rotor.

3. If pedal does not firm up, block off lines coming from master cylinder. If pedal firms up, possible air in lines or VSC Actuator, or faulty VSC Actuator.

4. If pedal does not firm up, possible air in master cylinder or faulty master cylinder.
Tech Tips: Always loosen the bleeders before returning caliper piston into its bore, never pump brake pedal to full stroke to avoid damage to master cylinder.

A major mistake most all do is to force the caliper pistons into the caliper bore without oping the brake bleeder.

1) you need the bleeder open so you can get a feel for resistance of the piston. It should not bind.

2) you do not want to push contaminated fluid out of the caliper into the system, open the bleeder and catch the fluid.

The front calipers are a fix caliper that have there own issues. The fronts are 4 piston calipers just one piston stuck will be an issue. Choose your brake pin/slid lube careful as some lubes are not rubber safe and will swell rubber parts and stick caliper pins/slides. That's a major issue, I use CRC 05353 Brake caliper grease always read the label and confirm its rubber safe. CRC is all I use no other lube for that job in my shop as some of the others always get tacky.

A 2010 is 13 years old and more than likely needs the complete package. If you want the performance of like new $2500 would be a good place to start. A cheap brake job is not gonna cut it no one will be happy.

I doubt its your issue a lose wheel bearing will cause his issues. That's all I can think of for now.