Can I have your opinion please? Manifold issue - PICS

[Big Trees]

Hello everyone.

I'm having a issue and I'm hoping you'll be kind enough to give me your opinion on this issue.

I had a manifold leak start so I immediately bought gaskets and was ready to replace them. When I took off the manifold I noticed some pitting so I posted on here and asked what you all suggested. It was said that I would need a new manifold but could use the one I had since I already had gaskets in hand ready to put on.

Royse was kind enough to send me a different manifold that had a better condition flange on it. It was also a different style of manifold. His being more like factory style.

I bought the studs (1 3/4" long) that you guys suggest to put in and replaced the bolts with those studs and brass nuts. I installed the manifold and gaskets and everything seemed to go great and was really easy.

I finished up the install and tried starting it and IT WAS LOUD.

I knew I had an exhaust leak at the manifold because I could feel air from the bottom side of the manifold with my hand. I have taken off the manifold and reinstalled it at least 3 separate times now and I can not figure out why I am getting this air leak.

When I put the manifold on and look up from below it appears that it is making a clean connection with the block but obviously it's not. After redoing it the several times I started to think *MAYBE* the bottom of the new manifold is resting up too close against the block surface causing a gap. (Please see pics included).

I'm wondering if the part circled in green in the 1st pic might be up against the part circled by red in 2nd pic too close causing a gap there?

That's the only thing I can think of. I have the studs in the block to the point of the smooth part on the stud. If they aren't in up to the smooth part, it's only a thread away from it.

I have the manifold tightened down nice and good also. I don't have a torque wrench but I have used a ratchet and have them snug but not TOO TIGHT.

What I was going to do today was try to double the gaskets and see if that helps. If it didn't help I was going to reuse my old manifold and see if that style has any different results.

For comparison, the manifold in the pic above that has the green circle is the EXACT manifold that I am trying to install and the one it's laying next to is the same exact STYLE I took off of the tractor.

I am at the road of explanations or possibilities. Does anybody have any thoughts, suggestions or opinions?

Anything will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 

[Big Trees]

I want to add that I have the studs in a little further than what the pic shows. I took that pic before I tightened them in a little further.

 

[Indiana Ken]

Is it clamping down against the engine block? Perhaps the studs are too long. Might try installing the manifold without gaskets and verify it pulls up tight.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Take the studs back out and clean the block mating surface up - way too much crud on it. Should be dead clean and shiny.

TOH

 

[R Geiger]

I purchased a manifold that would hit the valve covers. I ground just a bit of material off of the manifold. I might have been ok to loosen the valve covers and move them a bit.

 

[Big Trees]

Indiana Ken/TOH - Thank you both for the replies. I will take the studs back out and clean up the block. I cleaned up the surface where the gasket was going but I didn't think I needed to get the rest of it nice and clean. I will do that and then try without the gasket to see if I'm getting up against the block like it should be.


Thank you both very much!!

 

[Big Trees]

(quoted from post at 07:57:11 02/29/16)
I purchased a manifold that would hit the valve covers. I ground just a bit of material off of the manifold. I might have been ok to loosen the valve covers and move them a bit.

R. Geiger - Thanks for the response. That seems like that is what's happening with mine. I didn't know that was the valve cover. I didn't know if I'd be able to move that or not. Maybe I'll try that too when I clean up the block.

Thanks a lot!

 

[R Geiger]

to reposition the valve covers, most likely you will need new gaskets. I would take the cover off and clean everything and fit the manifold with the covers off.

 

[Big Trees]

(quoted from post at 08:24:50 02/29/16) to reposition the valve covers, most likely you will need new gaskets. I would take the cover off and clean everything and fit the manifold with the covers off.

Ok, thanks for that tip. I'm not sure what my next step will be at this point. I want and kind of need to get it running soon so I'll probably try the double gasket or grind some off of the manifold. Last option will probably be trying my old manifold again. Not sure how to get it any more clean than it is and I was told it needed to be cleaned more.

Thanks again everybody.

 

[Big Trees]

After looking at it again I'm convinced that the valve cover is keeping it from making a good connection. I'm going to try to grind away a small portion in two spots and then try to fit it on the block. Thanks again.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 23:53:11 02/29/16) After looking at it again I'm convinced that the valve cover is keeping it from making a good connection. I'm going to try to grind away a small portion in two spots and then try to fit it on the block. Thanks again.

I have ran into dat... I removed the valve covers and tapped each retain'N stud down to move the cover down. The manifold could also be ground to fit I elected to move the covers.

Its somewhat of a common issue if you send the block out for a cleaning the studs for the covers get bent a little... Also I spec the replacement manifolds are cast larger.

 

[souNdguy]

I know some of the replacemnts have less clearance for tools at the studnut area...

 

[Big Trees]

Thank you both for the reply. I'm glad that I'm not alone then. I can't get the cut wheel nut off of the grinder to put a grind wheel on. I'm stuck for now but will give it another go here soon.

I would move the valve covers if I knew I wouldn't need a gasket but I probably would.

Thanks again

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 14:38:04 02/29/16) I know some of the replacemnts have less clearance for tools at the studnut area...

sadly, i know this too :evil:

 

[Big Trees]

On my phone so I'll be quick but I grinded down some on the manifold and I got a good connection now. Thank you all for your help. The exhaust isnt loud like it was but now there is a loud noise elsewhere. I think it's coming from the fan blade. Maybe water pump is going out? I'll check for play in the shaft next. I didn't let it run long to determine exactly where it's coming from, hope not the engine. Don't think so but I'm not sure yet.

Thank you all for the help

 

[whopist]

I had an 8N with the exhaust manifold that required longer mounting studs.

I had a interference problem with the oil line brass tee fitting that screws into the block just behind the rear of the manifold.
The 8N brass tee is a little taller than the 9N-2N tee fitting.

Might want to check it out.


Good luck,
whopist

 

[Blue Jay]

My bet is on the lifter (valve) covers hitting the manifold. Compare that area on both manifolds.
As you say very loud, my son and I did my 46 2N and had the same problem.

 

[Charles Krammin]

Am I seeing only 3 studs, when all 4 are needed or was that a future picture before replacement?

 

[Big Trees]

Thanks for the replies, you all. I'm closer but still have some kind of leak I believe. I'm hearing a sound out of the air filter/oil breather. I'll be taking another look at it tomorrow.


Charles, there WAS 4 bolts in there before I did the manifold work and I have had 4 studs in there each time I bolted it up. When I took the manifold off one time that stud came out of the block when I unscrewed the nut. I put it right back in when and then screwed them in a little further.


Thank you all