Electric Code

Moving forward with the planning of a new 750 sq ft dirt floor; metal siding and roof poleshed/garage/workshop.

Went to the parish office to find out about a building and electrical permit.
The reason I enquired about the permit in the first place is because I want to put a separate meter pan and breaker box on shed. About 100 amps; to run my welder; some lights; ect.
Was told that if I build what I call a carport (post and roof only) I do not need a permit for the building. No code to follow build it as good or poor as you want.
If I put sides on the carport I need a permit; flood elevation; wet stamp plans; follow all 110 mph wind codes; ect.

So I have decided to build a carport only for now. hint hint.....

Now all I need is the electrical permit. Inspector was not in office for me to pick his brain so I figured I would get some "preliminary" advise here.
I want to install a meter pan and breaker box; and maybe a plug for a welder and some over head lights. Nothing over board but just enough to justify installing a separate meter pan out there and get past this electrical inspection.

By code
I understand I can put a meter pan and breaker box on the post of a carport; I just need to use a water proof outside breaker box.
I understand that I can put a plug for my welder on a pole as long as I install a small waterproof box to put the plug in and run the wires in pvc (grey) pipe.
I understand I will need to run the light wires in pvc and install a waterproof light switch.

What I am not sure of is what kind of light sockets he will be looking for since this will be under a roof but not in a closed in building.

What kind of electrical box is code for the light switch and light socket. Will metal boxes like the sell at hardware do?
 
For the elec switch boxes you will need to use water tight boxes with threaded hubs in them so you can tighten the conduit into it or PVC boxes that you glue the pipe into. Any light fixture that is damp rated should work. Just a tip, drill a 3/16" hole in the bottom of outlet boxes so they can drain any water out that may get into them.
 
Hire an electrician. Check your local newspapers for an electrician looking for work. I see ads in my area with them looking for work. Make sure they have a current license. Get prices from several. Hal
 
John in La,
Something to think about. I looked at my REMC bill. $29 a month to just have a single phase meter. That means I would pay another $29 a month to have a seperate meter at pole barn. I ran power from house to shed and save $29, not to mention no electrical permit, about $100.

George
 
John, part of the meter charge might be for the person who comes around to read the meter.

When I had natural gas, there was a minimum meter charge just to have the meter.

May want to call electric company and find out. Is there a reason you need a second meter?
George
 
I think my existing electrical service should cover the shed. I have 200 amp service.
I am running a totally electric house with water well pump off that 200 amps.

The reason I was opting for the second meter pan was distance.

So lets go there.
Lets say under 100ft but very close to it. Maybe 80 to 90 feet away from house meter pan.
What size service can I get away with running a welder; air compressor; lights; and may be a heater or window a/c in the future.
50 or 60 amps.
60 amps is #6 times 4 strands at $70 a strand. Then I need a breaker box (sub panel) either way.
A ground rod either way is also a good idea.

So for the price of meter box; the rain cap and pipe to get up to hook up point; an electrical permit; I can get 100 amp service to the shed and save $280 on the wire to run from house to shed.

But keep the ideas coming because I am still in the drawing stages.
 
Seems to me it's all up to what your local code is.

However, you mention running #6 wire. Is that heavy enough to run a 100 amp service with a welder?

I just ran 2/4 to a 100 amp service in a shop. (#2 hot legs, #4 neutral).
 
I ran a 100 amp sub panel off my 100 amp main panel-and it includes an electric welder-if you are careful about loads on the panels it can work well
 
Ok so you say you will save $280 up front but with the meter charge and I guarantee there will be one ( here in Ky. Eleven years ago it was $15) that is $180 a year just to have the service. Ten years of service would be $1800 not including the KW charge wich also will be higher, so where is the savings of $280 only for the first eighteen months.
 
(quoted from post at 14:58:01 01/11/14) I think my existing electrical service should cover the shed. I have 200 amp service.
I am running a totally electric house with water well pump off that 200 amps.

The reason I was opting for the second meter pan was distance.

So lets go there.
Lets say under 100ft but very close to it. Maybe 80 to 90 feet away from house meter pan.
What size service can I get away with running a welder; air compressor; lights; and may be a heater or window a/c in the future.
50 or 60 amps.
60 amps is #6 times 4 strands at $70 a strand. Then I need a breaker box (sub panel) either way.
A ground rod either way is also a good idea.

So for the price of meter box; the rain cap and pipe to get up to hook up point; an electrical permit; I can get 100 amp service to the shed and save $280 on the wire to run from house to shed.

But keep the ideas coming because I am still in the drawing stages.

This would be the time to install this between your electrical meter and the 200amp panel. Then run 100amps to the shed.
Power to shed and a proper legal safe transfer switch all in one neat package.
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?TWB2012DR
 
Not an electrician but here are my thoughts. Run the wire from your existing 200 amp box using no 6 or heavier cable under ground. It will b cheaper and a lot less headaches in the end.
I am over 300 feet from my metered box at my barn and I have no problems with having enough power. My welder works fine at that barn.
 
I just ran 100amp service from the house meter to the barn 225 feet of wire in conduit. I have less than $500.00 in it. A new meter installed would cost me nothing.(REC will furnish it here) The new meter would have cost $30.00 min. a month after that. After 17 months it will have paid for itself. I expect the electric bill to raise $5.00 to $6.00 a month.
 
I ran #6 wire to my detached garage (60 AMP) for my welder. It runs my 220v compressor, welder, lights ect. Never once blew a breaker. I used (2) ground rods at on the detached garage and burial wire (4 strands).

You welder does not draw full rated AMPS most of the time, unless you crank it up to full.

We have a pole barn on our farm, that has 100 AMP. Power comes in on the pole and spits from the main meter, 1 lead to the house 100 AMP, 1 lead to the pole barn 100 AMP. The pole is in the yard half way between the pole barn and house. The house wire is up in the air, the barn is under ground. At the time, this was the most economical way to do it. The 100 AMP in the pole barn also goes to a subpanel in our horse barn 50 AMP, and another subpanel in a shed 20 AMP. The wires are all underground except for the shed.

I can't say the old horse barn wiring would pass any inspection, but it works and was done 40 years ago.
 

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