Electrical Connection for Boom Sprayer

[wh]

Just in case this needs mentioned, 3pt implements don’t come with top link pins. Or 3pt arm pins. Those are things you need to have on hand because they’re needed for all implements. And honestly, if you’re worried about paint inside the ball joints of your top link, you’re going to be real disappointed after you get a little use out of the tractor. It won’t look new any more.

And for goodness sakes, do not get any horse or cow poo on the tires!!

 

[mml373]

Just in case this needs mentioned, 3pt implements don’t come with top link pins. Or 3pt arm pins. Those are things you need to have on hand because they’re needed for all implements. And honestly, if you’re worried about paint inside the ball joints of your top link, you’re going to be real disappointed after you get a little use out of the tractor. It won’t look new any more.

Not worried about the paint or appearances, and it's reasonable to want to ensure the longevity of this equipment, mechanically.

Farming skipped a generation in my family, and I have no corporate knowledge nor much experience with this stuff. I suspect all of y'all were starting out at one point as well and many had a chance to observe and learn. I don't have anyone teaching me a thing, which is why I'm here. I literally connected a 3-point implement for the first time in my life last weekend. Stuff you take for granted is new to me, and there's nobody here to check my six and make sure I'm not setting myself up to tear something up by accident...or hurt myself or someone else. I have a great deal of respect for this equipment and what it can do to someone. Each of the two guys who've done my hay over the past few years are missing an arm due to farm accidents.

This is two or three posts now about the top link pin (and I've now procured appropriate pins). Let's stick to the topic at hand regarding figuring out the electrical stuff. I am sure it is something simple.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Well if that is wired like a truck plug is the top white wire is the ground the brown and black wires are marker and tail lights so would all be on with the light switch. Now the green is right turn and the yellow is left turn and red is brake so the blue center wire could be used for the hot tire on your sprayer with the white for ground . This will only work if it is wired like that. Now with a test light you could check all this out very easily and fine your hot and ground or an open pin to use for the sprayer without having the lights on all day for sprayer use. They have male plugs that will plug right into the tractor plug and could just stay with your sprayer til next year or next use. I'm looking at doing a similar method for monitors and rear lights in implements on older equipment and tractors.

 

[MJMJ]

Not worried about the paint or appearances, and it's reasonable to want to ensure the longevity of this equipment, mechanically.

Farming skipped a generation in my family, and I have no corporate knowledge nor much experience with this stuff. I suspect all of y'all were starting out at one point as well and many had a chance to observe and learn. I don't have anyone teaching me a thing, which is why I'm here. I literally connected a 3-point implement for the first time in my life last weekend. Stuff you take for granted is new to me, and there's nobody here to check my six and make sure I'm not setting myself up to tear something up by accident...or hurt myself or someone else. I have a great deal of respect for this equipment and what it can do to someone. Each of the two guys who've done my hay over the past few years are missing an arm due to farm accidents.

This is two or three posts now about the top link pin (and I've now procured appropriate pins). Let's stick to the topic at hand regarding figuring out the electrical stuff. I am sure it is something simple.

Its very simple. Black to ground ( body of tractor is fine if its bare metal), and red to 12v positive. Thats it.

 

[Tony in SD]

Understood. If I had a carried bolt I would have used that, also. No bolt I had on hand was one I would have trusted

I had hoped to use that 7-pin connector because it would allow me to keep the wiring run short and easily disconnect/connect, but I'm not getting a voltage. Tried different multitester settings, nothing. Tried a 12V battery and got a 12V reading. Tractor was on and idling. Ideas? The 30A fuse is good. There's a relay that I assume is good. Continuity on the Ground and 12V battery power poles is good. Just not seeing voltage on the pins and I don't want to wire up and connect the plug till I see voltage.

Appreciate the help...new to all this stuff. All of it.

Do you have a wiring diagram of the tractor in question? That would help us locating your problem.

 

[paul]

To state the facts accurately I just care about my equipment and the investment I've made in it, which represents years of effort to cover the cost.

I see the humor on both sides of this. And appreciate you want to take good care of your investment.

Where I live most folk are working during the week and go out and buy stuff on the weekend, so it comes as a surprise you can’t get simple farm parts over the weekend where you are. That’s cool but just so different than here.

Electrical Issues can be a deep mystery to me as well. For some reason it seems I make smoke more often than I should. As we move to more sensitive electronics in nearly everything, I have to ask lots of questions and move slowly too!

Paul

 

[mml373]

This is the pinout that works...evidently there's an automotive pinout for these 7-pin connectors (what was originally posted, I think) and an agricultural pinout (this one). Hooked things up tonight using the picture below and everything worked perfectly. Not to get the sprayer dialed in a bit better. I think I put down twice as much product as needed (no biggie). Hope this pinout is helpful.

 

[mml373]

I see the humor on both sides of this. And appreciate you want to take good care of your investment.

Where I live most folk are working during the week and go out and buy stuff on the weekend, so it comes as a surprise you can’t get simple farm parts over the weekend where you are. That’s cool but just so different than here.

Electrical Issues can be a deep mystery to me as well. For some reason it seems I make smoke more often than I should. As we move to more sensitive electronics in nearly everything, I have to ask lots of questions and move slowly too!

Paul

My biggest problem is my schedule is nuts. I just don't have much time to dedicate to things and need to go into stuff with a good idea for how to proceed, so as not to waste time. Work, church, family, rehab take soooo much time. The farm stuff unfortunately is what happens in the evenings between when I finish my "real job" and when the family gets home. I suspect many others with smaller operations are in the same boat.

 

[caterpillar guy]

that same plug is available from any truck parts house for less than Deere will want for it probably. And they will have both side male and female. You can even get them with a circuit breaker set up in the female side so it will protect the harness from the plug back if you need them. I can't say that the position of the pin use is right or wrong for a tractor but I posted earlier for you the truck pin to wire location so it would just plug into a semi trailer or similar wagon for use.

 

[MJMJ]

Why would you use a 7 pin connector when you only have two wires? And how you wire it doesn’t matter, all that matters is that the ground connects with ground and power connects to power. This is being made wayyy harder than it needs to be.

 

[Jim.ME]

Sounds like you have your wiring done now, the following is for future reference if you need.

If no lights, on towed implements are needed, I just use a 12 or 10 gauge flat two pole round pin plug set. I just make sure to keep the power (in my case the 12-volt positive wire) on the insulated socket pole of the plug on the tractor side, to prevent it shorting out when nothing is plugged in. The ground wire goes to the uninsulated pin. The power wire gets a 20-amp fuse or circuit breaker near its source on the tractor for protection. All my tractors get the same set up.