Electronic Ignition conversion with pictures

Last fall I converted my 48 front mount to 12 volts with help from this board (thank you again).

This year I took the plunge to convert to EI. Please don't start a war over this. I'm not saying one method is better than the other. I just had some free time and I like to tinker and learn. After 20 years with 6 volts and breaker points I wanted to try something different.

Of course, here is the distributor before I started the conversion:

5642.jpg


Here it is after installing the Pertronix II ignition module. Note that I have a coil block off plate already attached:

5643.jpg


Here is the assembled distributor with a Pertronics distributor cap and terminal which allows completely eliminating the front mount coil. For anyone curious I had been using a hollowed out front mount coil with a round can coil for years but since I was doing this project I felt like upgrading everything:

5644.jpg


Here is how I mounted the round can coil:

5645.jpg


and here is a view of what the distributor installation looks like:

5646.jpg


My observations:

My tractor was running fine with breaker points, so I wasn't looking for any huge improvements, but I do notice a few differences.

The tractor actually started better with the breaker points. It jumped to life on the first compression stroke. In fact, I used to demo a cold start for friends by simply pounding my fist on the starter button with a quick jab and the tractor would instantly fire up. Now, with EI it has to turn 2 or 3 compression strokes, but I'm not saying there is any kind of problem, it is still a fast starter.

The tractor idles down to dead slow better with the EI. There is no missing or popping now as there was with the breaker points.

My only guess is that there is some difference in timing between the 2 installs ?

I can tell you that for years my standard practice was to gap the points 0.010 wider than spec (0.025 instead of 0.015) to allow the points to wear down to spec. I can't remember anymore what that did to dwell etc, so maybe that is part of the difference.

All in all I'm glad I did the conversion. It was a fun project and I learned a few things.
 

Cool, I mount the coil to one of the oil filter mounting bolts. You need to find TDC and set the timing are just advance it to your liking. It will not be the first are the last to set timing on by guess...
 
(quoted from post at 12:04:19 11/05/17) Money well spent, I swap all of my old tractors over
to EFI

Wow, you convert your tractors to [b:5de6cc53e9]E[/b:5de6cc53e9]lectronic [b:5de6cc53e9]F[/b:5de6cc53e9]uel [b:5de6cc53e9]I[/b:5de6cc53e9]njection ?

:D :D :D
 
(quoted from post at 23:51:37 11/05/17)
(quoted from post at 12:04:19 11/05/17) Money well spent, I swap all of my old tractors over
to EFI

Wow, you convert your tractors to [b:18fe1ed2e1]E[/b:18fe1ed2e1]lectronic [b:18fe1ed2e1]F[/b:18fe1ed2e1]uel [b:18fe1ed2e1]I[/b:18fe1ed2e1]njection ?

:D :D :D

There was a guy, on one of these forums, who was adapting an EFI system on a Massey Harris tractor. He was working the bugs out of the system the last time I read one of his post.
 
(quoted from post at 09:04:30 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 09:51:02 11/05/17) Here are some links to videos


Slow idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9moy3n18suaihlg/EI6.mp4?dl=0

Full throttle from idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7iyjurtgbu2e3v/EI7.mp4?dl=0

It doesn't look like yer charging

Nor should it.

The ammeter is wired to show the net flow of electricity from or to the battery.

When the tractor is started it shows a large charge as the alternator replenishes what the battery used to spin the starter. As it runs the charge diminishes until the battery is "full".

After that point the alternator supplies all needed power and the net effect on the battery is zero.

I have seen some wiring diagrams where the ammeter only shows what the alternator is doing, therefore there would always be a charge indicated.

I prefer the net metering setup.
 
Looks good. I had a Merc Flathead V8 in a hot rod that I put Pertronix on and it was the best mod I did on that engine. Also on my '65 Caddy with a 429. $$ well spent, indeed.
You have me wanting to get one for my 9N...
 
Looks good. I had a Merc Flathead V8 in a hot rod that I put Pertronix on and it was the best mod I did on that engine. Also on my '65 Caddy with a 429. $$ well spent, indeed.
You have me wanting to get one for my 9N...
 
(quoted from post at 10:53:49 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 09:04:30 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 09:51:02 11/05/17) Here are some links to videos


Slow idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9moy3n18suaihlg/EI6.mp4?dl=0

Full throttle from idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7iyjurtgbu2e3v/EI7.mp4?dl=0

Thanks Steve for yer clarification on the charging of the alternator. Would you be so kind as to post that wiring diagram so I can wire mine like that?

Thanks in advance

It doesn't look like yer charging

Nor should it.

The ammeter is wired to show the net flow of electricity from or to the battery.

When the tractor is started it shows a large charge as the alternator replenishes what the battery used to spin the starter. As it runs the charge diminishes until the battery is "full".

After that point the alternator supplies all needed power and the net effect on the battery is zero.

I have seen some wiring diagrams where the ammeter only shows what the alternator is doing, therefore there would always be a charge indicated.

I prefer the net metering setup.
 
(quoted from post at 18:39:04 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 10:53:49 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 09:04:30 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 09:51:02 11/05/17) Here are some links to videos


Slow idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9moy3n18suaihlg/EI6.mp4?dl=0

Full throttle from idle:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7iyjurtgbu2e3v/EI7.mp4?dl=0

Thanks Steve for yer clarification on the charging of the alternator. Would you be so kind as to post that wiring diagram so I can wire mine like that?

Thanks in advance

It doesn't look like yer charging

Nor should it.

The ammeter is wired to show the net flow of electricity from or to the battery.

When the tractor is started it shows a large charge as the alternator replenishes what the battery used to spin the starter. As it runs the charge diminishes until the battery is "full".

After that point the alternator supplies all needed power and the net effect on the battery is zero.

I have seen some wiring diagrams where the ammeter only shows what the alternator is doing, therefore there would always be a charge indicated.

I prefer the net metering setup.
/quote]

Thanks Steve for yer clarification on the charging of the alternator. Would you be so kind as to post that wiring diagram so I can wire mine like that?

Thanks in advance
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:19 11/06/17)
(quoted from post at 23:51:37 11/05/17)
(quoted from post at 12:04:19 11/05/17) Money well spent, I swap all of my old tractors over
to EFI

Wow, you convert your tractors to [b:2874c7f1bc]E[/b:2874c7f1bc]lectronic [b:2874c7f1bc]F[/b:2874c7f1bc]uel [b:2874c7f1bc]I[/b:2874c7f1bc]njection ?

:D :D :D

There was a guy, on one of these forums, who was adapting an EFI system on a Massey Harris tractor. He was working the bugs out of the system the last time I read one of his post.
David G. on Tractor Talk I believe. I think he built his own adjustable control modules too. Including adjustable EI. Sharp setup.
 
Thanks Steve for yer clarification on the charging of the alternator. Would you be so kind as to post that wiring diagram so I can wire mine like that?

Thanks in advance

Nashranch, I'm happy to help, but I have to say that I'm one of the least qualified people on this board to be offering electrical advice, I'm more of a mechanical person. So anything I say should be taken with a grain of salt, others will no doubt chime in to correct me.

The cliff notes version is that the battery should be connected to one side of the ammeter and everything else (ammeter output and all loads) should be connected to the other side of the ammeter.

In that condition if the alternator is keeping up with the load nothing passes to or from the battery. If current passes to or from the battery the ammeter swings one way or the other to show the same.

If you Google JMOR Wiring diagram you will find a bunch of diagrams and one of them will show the actual wiring that I'm trying to explain.

Good Luck !!
 

Put a voltmeter on it life will be good... No need to razl dazl ya with info to make me look smart... If you have a issue you gonna need to know the voltage FIRST to diagnose it hang a voltmeter on it....
 

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