Explain governor setting, please

[super99]

My 77 gas was surging really bad, took the governor housing off and the little spring was missing. I put a different housing with a spring in it and when I got it set not to surge, the nut on the adjustment was clear in against the head of the screw. It set inside all winter and then when I started it this year, it is surging again. No threads left to tighten the screw to stop it. Do the springs get weak? The I&T manual says to tighten the screw until surging stops, which I did. Now it's surging again, so what do I do now?? I have the rods set where they are supposed to be. I have looked at other tractors, most all of them the nut is set near the middle of the adjusting screw. Is the happy spot in the middle of the adjusting screw and I missed it and went too far? I'm confused! Thanks, Chris

 

[Dieseltech]

The carb to governor rod length can be VERY critical, and the book is a good starting point. On your engine the carb rod PUSHES the throttle open, so LENGTHEN the rod to take away surging, and SHORTEN the rod if governor action is lazy. Do the opposite on engines where the carb rod PULLS the throttle open. If set correctly the bumper setting won't be needed, and lots of governors don't even have one. Just because rod is set by the book does not mean it won't work better if longer or shorter.

 

[Spunky Flat Ron]

My recent experience suggests something could be going on with your carburetor. I rebuilt what I thought was a good TSX 363 core for my 66. When I installed it the motor surged like crazy. I re-installed a known good carburetor and the surging stopped. Never seen this before, but it happened. In my experience Fleetline governors are normally not all that finicky.