Farmall 140 steering

Well I got into the front end today to find out why the steering would only turn right and was so loose and wobbly. There are 2 bolts that come up from into the bottom of the steering box. One bolt had fallen out and the other had backed off so far that the steering arm would hit it. I replaced the missing bolt and tightened up the other one. I jacked up the tractor and knocked out the pivot pin thinking I would have to make another one but mine was in great shape. I measured and there was .080 play front to back on the pivot arm so I turned a .080 bronze shim and when I put the pin back in and slipped the shim in and the front end is as tight as new..
 
If you are talking about the bolts that hold the steering housing base to the steering gear housing (front bolster), there should be 6 bolts and 2 dowel pins.
 
Went back and looked it over and of the 4 bolts that I overlooked 2 were gone and the other two were loose. I replaced them all with new bolts and new lock washers. I didnt add any 90W100 I did what I do with all of the gear boxes on our bush hogs, rotary finish mowers, rototillers etc I took out the pipe plug and filled it with grease. I pulled the plug in the front of the gear box and checked the bearing there and it looked good so I packed it with grease and closed it back up. Now I just wish I could get the steering wheel nut off so I could replace the bearing on the shaft support. It looks like I may end up cutting the shaft and either weld it back together or machine a small coupling or just live with that bad bearing up by the steering wheel
 
Went back and looked it over and of the 4 bolts that I overlooked 2 were gone and the other two were loose. I replaced them all with new bolts and new lock washers. I didnt add any 90W100 I did what I do with all of the gear boxes on our bush hogs, rotary finish mowers, rototillers etc I took out the pipe plug and filled it with grease. I pulled the plug in the front of the gear box and checked the bearing there and it looked good so I packed it with grease and closed it back up. Now I just wish I could get the steering wheel nut off so I could replace the bearing on the shaft support. It looks like I may end up cutting the shaft and either weld it back together or machine a small coupling or just live with that bad bearing up by the steering wheel
Drive to old bushing out with a steel driver made from a 6 inch piece of chrome moly tubing of the correct diameter that is made into a section that can clip over the existing shaft and be driven downward to push out the bushing. then get a new bushing and cut it into two pieces and (with everything super clean) drive them in with Locktite stud and bearing mount "glue" on them to hold them in place. Jim
 
Drive to old bushing out with a steel driver made from a 6 inch piece of chrome moly tubing of the correct diameter that is made into a section that can clip over the existing shaft and be driven downward to push out the bushing. then get a new bushing and cut it into two pieces and (with everything super clean) drive them in with Locktite stud and bearing mount "glue" on them to hold them in place. Jim
I can machine a new brass bushing and split it and then drive it in. I never thought of doing that
 

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