Farmtrac 555

[Rush55]

Does anyone out there have farmtrac 555? I was wanting an idea of your ignition wiring.

 

[Jim.ME]

Does anyone out there have farmtrac 555? I was wanting an idea of your ignition wiring.

I don't have a 555 but am offering the following as information for you to consider.

Given the burnt wires you have at the switch, shown in your pictures, I recommend you do not try to hook any of those wires to the switch. There is likely more damage other places in the harness (which may not be visible) which could lead to another meltdown if you hook those wires up.

To hot wire it. Figure out which terminal of your ignition switch needs battery power and run a new wire to it from the battery cable terminal of the solenoid. Figure out which terminal is ignition and run a new wire to the fuel injection pump. Figure out which terminal is the one on the switch that powers the starter solenoid when the key is turned. Run a new wire from that terminal to the small start terminal on the solenoid. Those three wires should start and run it. Be extremely careful with starting as the safety switches are bypassed so the tractor can start in gear. If your ignition switch is no good you could do a real hot wire and just twist the battery wire and wire to the fuel solenoid together and touch the wire to the solenoid to those two to when you want to engage the stater.

Are there numbers beside the terminals of the ignition switch? The wiring diagram, in the link used red MN posted for you, has some info on the switch terminals that might help you.

 

[Rush55]

wiring diagram from red MN what was the post number I must have missed it. my switch has four prongs and w 2 of them are double.1. hot (battery)red 2.accessory gauges brown/green 3 heater blue wire 4. ignition black with red in it. my dash light or gauges don't work but rpm does. I have to hot fuel injection although im getting power from the key switch (checked continuity) I have no trouble cranking the tractor as long as i got booster cables on the battery and negative end to ground on tractor. I'm thinking about running wires like you recommend. as mentioned earlier I got an extra wire which is red with white in it that I have no idea if it's part of the accessory or not. let me ask one question what part of the switch activates the fuel shut off solenoid

 

[Rush55]

if I ran new wires from the ignition switch. what Guage wires do I need.

 

[Jim.ME]

wiring diagram from red MN what was the post number I must have missed it. my switch has four prongs and w 2 of them are double.1. hot (battery)red 2.accessory gauges brown/green 3 heater blue wire 4. ignition black with red in it. my dash light or gauges don't work but rpm does. I have to hot fuel injection although im getting power from the key switch (checked continuity) I have no trouble cranking the tractor as long as i got booster cables on the battery and negative end to ground on tractor. I'm thinking about running wires like you recommend. as mentioned earlier I got an extra wire which is red with white in it that I have no idea if it's part of the accessory or not. let me ask one question what part of the switch activates the fuel shut off solenoid

4. the ignition should power the fuel shutoff solenoid.

If you are still using the booster cable to provide ground for the battery negative post, you need to repair that negative battery cable. is the insulation clear from the area where you installed the new battery clamp? Does the bare cable stay clamped if you pull on it? Have you moved the other end of the cable to one of the starter's mounting bolts as was suggested?

If all you want is to run it enough to load it and take it to the Vocational school those three wires I suggested should do that. 14 gauge would work as temporary to get it moved.

 

[Janicholson]

if I ran new wires from the ignition switch. what Guage wires do I need.

14 likely 12 for sure. match the existing, or up a step. Jim

 

[Rush55]

Yes I moved the negative cable from starter mtr mount to another place although it didn't work. I may need to try it again because I had to get shims for the worn battery post. why do I have to use hot wire for fuel solenoid I'd my ignition key is working.

 

[Janicholson]

Yes I moved the negative cable from starter mtr mount to another place although it didn't work. I may need to try it again because I had to get shims for the worn battery post. why do I have to use hot wire for fuel solenoid I'd my ignition key is working.

the black cable is not functioning, or the jumper would be doing nothing. Just put new there and fix that issue. starting effort will be dramatically improved!!!!! JIM

 

[Rush55]

no the clamp does not move on battery terminal. what do you mean about insulation being clear

 

[Jim.ME]

no the clamp does not move on battery terminal. what do you mean about insulation being clear

Is it bare copper wire where the battery cable is clamping the wire. Meaning no wire insulation in that clamp bar area.

When I said pull on the cable, I meant pull on the cable to see if it pulls out of the new end you put on the cable. Do the same on the other end to see if that end is loose where it hooks to the engine. Get a completely new cable, if need be. If the battery cables are correct, you will not need the booster cable. Using the booster cable, as you are doing, and the fact that it cranks when the booster cable is used, tells us the negative battery cable has a problem.

If your switch is working, using it is up to you. I would use new wires as a temporary hook up given you have melted wires. There may be more melted or shorted you are not seeing, and it may heat up and start melting/burning again.

 

[Rush55]

Thanks will do. yes copper wire is bare l pull on the ends and they are snug. I'll do like you suggested and get new cables.

 

[used red MN]

Are you still thinking you can repair this wiring problem yourself or are you just wanting to get it running with temporary wiring to get it to the dealer you were talking about in the “Poor Connection” thread? If you are doing this I would suggest disconnecting all the wires from your alternator to avoid damage to it. Disconnect the battery cable while you are disconnecting the alternator and tape up any bare terminal ends that are not in plugs. Generally the main feed to an alternator is a wire eye terminal end on a small stud this is what should be taped when removed. Put the nut back on the stud and snug it down so it is not lost.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks will do. yes copper wire is bare l pull on the ends and they are snug. I'll do like you suggested and get new cables.

This has been suggested before, I am going to recommend you follow the suggestion. Contact the seller of the Service Manual that used red MN linked for you and confirm it has the wiring diagram(s) in it. If it does purchase it. $125.00 is less than 2 hours labor at your dealer, without the transportation charge you indicated there would be. The vocational school will likely want it to use while repairing your tractor, I very much doubt they have a Farmtrac 555 manual in their library.

I have manuals that cost more than $200 apiece and they have saved more than that in not having to haul a unit to the dealer and pay their labor to fix something.