Ford 8N 12V EI conversion

This is a good video also. Guy showing how to reverse the direction of the starter to get the Bendix to release. But I think the Ford 8N has the notch that does not allow it to be turned 90 degrees without grinding off the notch.

 
I would suggest purchasing at least two distributor rotors and the little metal clip that holds it on the distributor shaft. The rotors are super cheap on this site compared to auto parts hou$e and it is aggravating to lose or damage the clip.
 
I took off the starter housing, and still could not get the starter out past the ring gear.

It took a bit of work to put back together because the brushes were sprung out and would not go back over the commutator without intervention. So MacGyvered it and got it all back together.

 
In no way am I saying that AI is correct. It is often wrong.

But if you prompt it correctly, you can get some good information quickly.

Here is what I asked:

Do an extensive search of real verified data and show me all documented cases of a Ford 8N that’s been converted to 12 V and nothing on the starter was changed and it damaged the ring gears or anything that was hard to repair other than the starter itself. Do not make anything up and do not look at other makes and models.

Result​

I found zero publicly documented Ford 8N cases that conclusively prove all four facts:

  1. The tractor was converted from 6 volts to 12 volts.
  2. The original 6-volt starter was left completely unchanged.
  3. The conversion caused damage beyond the starter or Bendix.
  4. The damage required ring-gear replacement, splitting the tractor, repairing the bell housing, or another difficult repair.
I found one probable but not fully proven case, plus several close cases that fail at least one requirement.

Closest probable case​

2023 — 1951 Ford 8N​

The owner reported:

  • He converted the 8N to 12 volts.
  • The starter-drive gear shattered and fell into the bell housing.
  • One flywheel ring-gear tooth was missing.
  • He expected that the tractor might need to be split.
  • Because it had a Dearborn loader, splitting it would be especially involved.
  • He later said he intended to replace the present starter with a 12-volt starter, which strongly suggests the starter then installed was still a 6-volt starter.
Why I cannot call it fully verified: the owner never explicitly states, “This is the original unmodified 6-volt starter,” and never establishes whether the missing flywheel tooth was caused by the 12-volt conversion, by the shattered drive, or was already damaged beforehand.

Classification: probable match, but causation and unchanged-starter status are not proven.

Other actual 8N damage reports that do not meet your exact requirements​

2010 — 1948 Ford 8N: starter burned and flywheel teeth broke​

The owner bought an 8N that he had been told was converted to 12 volts. After approximately one week, the starter burned up and flywheel teeth broke, requiring replacement of both. However, the owner never identified whether the starter was the original 6-volt starter, a rebuilt unit, or a 12-volt replacement. The tractor was also difficult to start, backfired badly, and had badly corroded wiring.

Classification: genuine 8N ring-gear damage on a reportedly 12-volt tractor, but unchanged 6-volt starter and causation are not documented.

2017 — 1952 Ford 8N: broken drive jammed engine​

The owner reported a 12-volt-converted 1952 8N that shattered two starter-drive gears in three months. The second broken gear jammed the engine and appeared likely to require splitting the tractor. However, he did not identify the starter as the original unchanged 6-volt starter. More importantly, he stated that he had re-engaged the starter before the engine stopped rotating and accepted responsibility for both failures.

Classification: difficult repair beyond the starter, but attributed by the owner to re-engaging the starter against a rotating engine—not demonstrated damage from simply operating an unchanged 6-volt starter on 12 volts.

2008 — Ford 8N: repeated drive failures and ring-gear damage​

This owner had a 12-volt-converted 8N. A Bendix shattered, the ring gear was replaced, another drive cracked, and the replacement ring gear was subsequently damaged. The starter shaft was ultimately found to be bent. Most importantly, the owner explicitly stated that he could not say whether the starter was 6 or 12 volts.

Classification: real ring-gear damage, but the starter voltage was unknown and a bent starter shaft was confirmed.

2012 — Ford 8N with two missing flywheel teeth​

The owner had repeated starter-drive failures and two missing ring-gear teeth. He believed someone had re-engaged the starter before it stopped spinning. He then explicitly identified the starter as an aftermarket 12-volt starter.

Classification: excluded because the original 6-volt starter had been replaced.

2010 — 1949 Ford 8N: destroyed ring gear and split required​

The starter-drive teeth shattered, the ring gear was badly damaged, debris wedged between the ring gear and housing, and the tractor had to be split. But the owner explicitly identified it as having a 12-volt starter and said the old starter had been removed during the conversion.

Classification: excluded because the starter was changed during the conversion.

Exact 12-volt/6-volt-starter reports where no difficult damage occurred​

2012 — 1947 Ford 8N​

This is one of the clearest exact reports: the owner explicitly wrote “12v system 6v starter” and reported four starter-drive failures. He later explicitly stated that there was no damage to the teeth on either the drive or the ring gear.

2020 — 1948 Ford 8N​

After conversion to 12 volts, the tractor broke two Bendix drives. The owner considered installing a 12-volt starter, indicating the existing starter remained the 6-volt unit. He explicitly stated that the new ring gear was not damaged.

Honest conclusion​

Across the publicly indexed Ford 8N owner reports I could locate:

  • Fully verified cases meeting every one of your conditions: 0
  • Probable but incompletely documented cases: 1
  • Definite 12-volt 8N ring-gear or difficult-repair cases where starter status or causation was not established: 3
  • Definite cases involving replacement 12-volt starters: 2
  • Exact 12-volt system/original 6-volt starter cases with only starter-drive failures and explicitly no ring-gear damage: at least 2
Therefore, there is evidence that an unchanged 6-volt starter on 12 volts can be harder on the starter drive/Bendix. I did not find verified evidence establishing that this setup alone damaged an 8N ring gear or caused another difficult repair. Every serious-damage report had an unidentified starter, a replacement 12-volt starter, an already damaged ring gear, a bent starter shaft, or documented improper re-engagement.
 
Then I connected a battery and jumper cables to test the starter and it worked fine. Engine turned over.

You sure are having a hard time.
You forgot to say "Hey Y'all watch this" Never strike at the battery.

Pull the brush spring back and rest them on the brush guide it will look sorta offset. Then you can pull the brushes all the way back in the guide. Once you have the armature and brushes in place, you can use needle nose pliers to pull/push the springs, off the brush guide and place them back onto the brushes, through the access holes in the end of the starter. Nuttin to it.
 
You sure are having a hard time.
You forgot to say "Hey Y'all watch this" Never strike at the battery.

Pull the brush spring back and rest them on the brush guide it will look sorta offset. Then you can pull the brushes all the way back in the guide. Once you have the armature and brushes in place, you can use needle nose pliers to pull/push the springs, off the brush guide and place them back onto the brushes, through the access holes in the end of the starter. Nuttin to it.
Yea that would have been the right thing to say!

That's a good idea about the brush spring, I didn't even think that it could be moved out of the way like that. Oh well, I got it done anyway. And I didn't mind at all. I learned a lot about the starter and I learned that my brushes looked really good to me so I feel like my starter does not need to be rebuilt because of that and must have been rebuilt not long ago. So that feels good.

Thanks! Now I know that for next time.
 
It sounds like the battery is low in voltage PLUS it sounds like it has a dead hole. Starter RPM just sounds wrong/low to me. Not that it may be an issue but the off rhythm sound is not good for the home team.

Dead hole WTF is dat

Instead of the normal, steady, deep chugging sound, you will hear a distinct "lump-de-lump" or galloping cadence because the starter meets no resistance when the bad cylinder comes up to compression stroke.
That sound is a tip off to my ears that this is not gonna be a cheap fix.

Sooner are later you are going to check compression are at the least pull the spark plugs and do a poor boys compression check, finger on the hole trick.

Poor boys compression test

Pops yer finger off the hole, compression is good enuff to fire.
Does not pop yer finger off the hole compression is low needs to be corrected.
 
It sounds like the battery is low in voltage PLUS it sounds like it has a dead hole. Starter RPM just sounds wrong/low to me. Not that it may be an issue but the off rhythm sound is not good for the home team.

Dead hole WTF is dat

Instead of the normal, steady, deep chugging sound, you will hear a distinct "lump-de-lump" or galloping cadence because the starter meets no resistance when the bad cylinder comes up to compression stroke.
That sound is a tip off to my ears that this is not gonna be a cheap fix.

Sooner are later you are going to check compression are at the least pull the spark plugs and do a poor boys compression check, finger on the hole trick.

Poor boys compression test

Pops yer finger off the hole, compression is good enuff to fire.
Does not pop yer finger off the hole compression is low needs to be corrected.
The engine was rebuilt 20 years ago, then ran great for small amount of hours before it sat for 20 years.
When I get it wired up, if it doesn't start I can easily check the compression, I have the tester.

Thanks!
 
It sounds like the battery is low in voltage PLUS it sounds like it has a dead hole. Starter RPM just sounds wrong/low to me. Not that it may be an issue but the off rhythm sound is not good for the home team.

Dead hole WTF is dat

Instead of the normal, steady, deep chugging sound, you will hear a distinct "lump-de-lump" or galloping cadence because the starter meets no resistance when the bad cylinder comes up to compression stroke.
That sound is a tip off to my ears that this is not gonna be a cheap fix.

Sooner are later you are going to check compression are at the least pull the spark plugs and do a poor boys compression check, finger on the hole trick.

Poor boys compression test

Pops yer finger off the hole, compression is good enuff to fire.
Does not pop yer finger off the hole compression is low needs to be corrected.
I think I should soak the pistons with something and turn it over every 24 hours then soak them again. Like berrymans or ATF or back and forth with those two.
 
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