Garage door 3 button controller wiring

[tractorguy2]

Looking for a new three button controller for my shop's overhead door. I have learned it's a Relaytron brand number PPKU-306 controller. I removed the cover and noticed it has five wires. Power comes from the fuse box, to the controller, then to the opener. Controller has one wire on the right side and four wires on the left. Also has three jumpers. Two on the right and one on the left. Every controller I've looked at is set up for a four wire system. The photos are of my five wire controller.

I looked at my machine shed opener. It has four wires. Three wires on the left and one wire on the right. The power comes from the fuse box to the opener. Then it goes to the controller and back to the opener. Can a four wire controller be made to work on my five wire system? How do I do it? I did check ebay and found a used controller like my old one. Would rather have new.

 

[wore out]

Looking for a new three button controller for my shop's overhead door. I have learned it's a Relaytron brand number PPKU-306 controller. I removed the cover and noticed it has five wires. Power comes from the fuse box, to the controller, then to the opener. Controller has one wire on the right side and four wires on the left. Also has three jumpers. Two on the right and one on the left. Every controller I've looked at is set up for a four wire system. The photos are of my five wire controller.

I looked at my machine shed opener. It has four wires. Three wires on the left and one wire on the right. The power comes from the fuse box to the opener. Then it goes to the controller and back to the opener. Can a four wire controller be made to work on my five wire system? How do I do it? I did check ebay and found a used controller like my old one. Would rather have new.

Why not save a whole lot of trouble and simply burnish the contacts on the ONE switch you've had trouble with, finishing with a spray of electrical contact cleaner? It's NOT likely the contacts are burned or pitted on a low voltage, low current device, simply "dirty". "Mite" even have some squashed bug parts on them, I've seen that before!

For that matter, a limit switch or relay contacts in the opener itself may be making trouble.

IF you are determined to proceed, rather than focusing on the "bad" switch, find a wiring diagram for the OPENER, likely there's some wiring options and a wide variety of new switches can be used with the opener.