Help/advice on relining gas tank

[perryjosh64]

This is for a gas tank on a 64 Ford 2000 tractor. I got the POR-15 kit with degreaser/metal prep/sealer. I followed the instructions for cleaning degreasing, metal prep and drying prior to applying sealer. However I still have flakes of the old liner falling off/flying around as I m drying out the tank. I blowout/vacuum the flakes but when I look inside the bulk of old liner still present with pealing still present. Is this normal and I good to go ahead and apply new liner/seal or do I need to get couple cans of stripper acetone, etc., put the chains back in and shake it up until all down to bare metal? Just don t want to waste sealer and have to do it all over again. Thanks

 

[woodbutcher]

I'd probably say do it over. I used the POR-15 to coat the tank of my 1970 model 4000, but it had not been coated before. I used
MEK to clean it, and chain or a hand full of galvanized bolts as an abrasive. I turned out great.

Butch

 

[Steve@Advance]

Unless the directions say how to line one that has already been lined, I
would give the company a call and ask their opinion.

No way they can know if the products are compatible unless you know and can
tell them what was used before. Even then if it was not their product, they
would not know unless they had done the research.

I don't know any way to suggest removing it all other than what you have
already done.

My other concern would be the integrity of the tank. How thin is it getting,
especially around the sediment bowl fitting? Maybe a new tank would be worth
considering at this point...

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 11:31:10 09/11/22) This is for a gas tank on a 64 Ford 2000 tractor. I got the POR-15 kit with degreaser/metal prep/sealer. I followed the instructions for cleaning degreasing, metal prep and drying prior to applying sealer. However I still have flakes of the old liner falling off/flying around as I m drying out the tank. I blowout/vacuum the flakes but when I look inside the bulk of old liner still present with pealing still present. Is this normal and I good to go ahead and apply new liner/seal or do I need to get couple cans of stripper acetone, etc., put the chains back in and shake it up until all down to bare metal? Just don t want to waste sealer and have to do it all over again. Thanks

Acetone melts Red Kote, but I don't know if it takes out POR15. You'll have to ask their tech support dept as suggested.

 

[perryjosh64]

Folks should have explained better. This tank is only 4-5 years old and the liner is the original but has failed. Been finding flakes in tank and had a leak around front mounting bracket where it is welded to tank. Leak has been fixed and in process of cleaning/re-sealing for the first time. I have not applied the POR-15 yet. Just trying to make sure the tank is properly cleaned and prepped prior to applying the sealant.

 

[Duner Wi]

I would want all the old liner removed. I use a cement mixer to rotate the gas tank.

 

[Bob Harvey]

My ONLY recommendation is - replace the tank'.

 

[perryjosh64]

(quoted from post at 16:58:37 09/11/22) My ONLY recommendation is - replace the tank'.

HA! We may end up with that, but damn if I m not gonna give the "fix it" a try!

 

[docmirror]

First thing to do is grab a 20Lb bag of rocks, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 inch. Use a funnel and pour all the rocks inside the tank. Now, spend the next couple hours with a friend shaking it upside right, upside down, tilted in all directions, including both ends. When you are done shaking it, shake it some more. After fully shaking it pour the rocks out. Rinse with clear water, then rinse with clear water again. Let dry > 6 hours.

After that follow the directions on the sealer/liner product.

 

[dr sportster]

All the old junk must come out for the new sealer to be effective. Don't rule out vinegar.

 

[wascator]

I redid a tank on an AC B that I restored more than 25
years ago and it is still fine. It was so rusted that the
bottom looked like screen wire. I boiled it in lye and water
until it was completely clean. I coated the bottom with
fine fiberglass cloth and resin, just enough that it would
hold the coating until it set. I bought the coating from Bill
Hirsch but there are many sources of this out there. I
poured it in and tilted it until the inside was completely
coated; did this twice. I used body filler to smooth the
outside of the tank before spray painting, because it is
visible.

I think the tank must be perfectly clean and all rust
removed or the coating will fail, sooner or later, but my
experience with coating was great.

There are vendors who will rehab a tank no

Matter how bad, even if they have to cut them open and
weld new steel in. I was quoted $600 last year to rehab a
1926 Model T tank, and I passed. Did it myself instead.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

If you reline it now the old liner will still not be adhered to the metal underneath. Eventually it will start flaking off again.

Somehow you gotta get the old stuff out.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have done more than my fair share its a time consuming job to prep the tank for por-15. The last one I did I used a mixer I was not to fond of it. The one before that I jacked a tractor tire up and mounted the tank to a tire and let'er spin.

If you had t pay me to do it you could buy 5 new tanks with that money : ) New sounds good to me.

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