Hydraulic Fluid change.

WNYBill

Member
I am going to change the hydraulic fluid and filters in my Mahindra 5155 with 100 hours. I was going to use Tractor Supply Universal, it takes 10 gallons. My theory; by using cheaper fluid I can change the fluid and filters more often. Can or should I mix a synthetic fluid with the TS stuff, like motor oil? Or is that a bad idea? Or do I bite the bullet and use 100% synthetic? Tractor is used <10 hours a month.
 
I am going to change the hydraulic fluid and filters in my Mahindra 5155 with 100 hours. I was going to use Tractor Supply Universal, it takes 10 gallons. My theory; by using cheaper fluid I can change the fluid and filters more often. Can or should I mix a synthetic fluid with the TS stuff, like motor oil? Or is that a bad idea? Or do I bite the bullet and use 100% synthetic? Tractor is used <10 hours a month.
Is it under warranty? If so, I'd use exactly what Mahindra recommends. If not, I've had good results with the Traveler premium universal trans/hydraulic oil from Tractor Supply.
 
You want a fluid that meets the Mahindra specification your tractor calls for. Check the label of any fluid you consider and see if it lists the specification your tractor needs on the label. If it doesn't, I would not recommend using it.
 
Is trans fluid like motor oil? T5 is 50/50 synthetic/regular, T6 is full synthetic. So, motor oil they mix, do they mix trans fluid and is it worth it?
 
Is trans fluid like motor oil? T5 is 50/50 synthetic/regular, T6 is full synthetic. So, motor oil they mix, do they mix trans fluid and is it worth it?
I would look closely at the cost of one and the other. Hyd oil change with 100 hours seems unrealistic to me. ,more like 1000 hrs. If I thought synthetic was better I would just use it and don't mix. Most people I know never change hyd oil. I have started doing it on my tractor only because it fell through a lake and got water in it, so I changed it twice in a week and 6 months later and a year later and now is a year again and will do it this fall. Then maybe every 500-1000 hrs. I know most people say with synthetic you get double the milage so pay twice as much and change half as often. In that case I would change twice as often and go no synthetic because I think clean oil often is better than high milage.
 
cjunrau, I agree and you change the filters twice as often too. This is a new tractor and they recommend changing everything at 25-100 hours then 500+ hrs. I believe I am going to go with TS Universal. Last winter I had problems with the FEL joy stick valves freezing. Took 15 minutes to thaw. Hoping that changing the fluid will cure that.
 
I've noticed a lot of new tractors with joystick valves are often cable operated. Cables are susceptible to collecting moisture which becomes apparent in freezing weather. In this case changing the hydraulic oil will have no effect.

If you do indeed have cables, get a cheap spray bottle and spray antifreeze on as much as the cables as possible, so that it might seep in wherever the water was getting in. Do this as often as possible . Once the antifreeze is inside the cable you will not have a frost problem.
 
Make sure you use oil that meets specs of the manufacturer if you want to keep your warranty in force. The wrong oil will void you warranty
 
Get a "Premium" (says so on the container) THD (trans, hydraulic, differential) oil with the code that is in your owner's manual printed on the back side of the 5 gallon container. For my later model tractors with all the goodies a THD oil is required and I always look for John Deere J20C. If any spec is there that will be there and that is what you want unless you are in the North Pole and then the C is replaced with another letter.....and I don't remember that one...its a thinner premium fluid.

Don't mix with anything.
 
cjunrau, I agree and you change the filters twice as often too. This is a new tractor and they recommend changing everything at 25-100 hours then 500+ hrs. I believe I am going to go with TS Universal. Last winter I had problems with the FEL joy stick valves freezing. Took 15 minutes to thaw. Hoping that changing the fluid will cure that.
You may have had some water in there as well. I know I had water froze in the bottom of my tractor. had a tiger torch under for a long while with the drain open and some came out but not all. oil turned milky after the first couple changes
 
I've noticed a lot of new tractors with joystick valves are often cable operated. Cables are susceptible to collecting moisture which becomes apparent in freezing weather. In this case changing the hydraulic oil will have no effect.

If you do indeed have cables, get a cheap spray bottle and spray antifreeze on as much as the cables as possible, so that it might seep in wherever the water was getting in. Do this as often as possible . Once the antifreeze is inside the cable you will not have a frost problem.
had that issue as well. cab tractor yet water still gets in there.
 
Last winter I had problems with the FEL joy stick valves freezing.
That would be interesting and probably very concerning if your spool valves were freezing internally. As others have said more likely the joystick operating cables or external ice/snow/dirt at the cable connection area to the valve if it is not protected very well.
 
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