Implement attachment

[roaddog]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

 

[Steve in VA]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

Do you mean that as you make a turn the implementation swings into the turn and rubs thar tire? If so, limiting the swing should resolve it.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

PTO TILLER??? Explain. Likely the wrong length PTO shaft from mower to PTO. Pictures help.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Janicholson]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

Welcome to YT we try to be responsive. Two options: limit the swing travel with mechanical restraints like chains or telescopic struts, or modify the implement attachment points to increase their rearward location + lengthening the drive shaft. Setting the rear tires outward may also work! Jim

 

[Mad Farmer]

Stabilizer arms for the lower links.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-9N_Stabilizer-Arm-Blue_230042B.html

 

[Pembroke]

what mad farmer said X 2

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

If you are running 14.9 28s the mower will contact the tires if the top link is too long, as well as excessive side to side travel.

 

[caterpillar guy]

If none of the other methods work just go to a quick hitch that would move your implement back about 3-6 inches . Big thing will be the spacing for the pins versus the qicktach. Might need to see if they could be tunred around to fit you quick tach or other means for it to wqork if not correct in the first place.

 

[roaddog]

Do you mean that as you make a turn the implementation swings into the turn and rubs thar tire? If so, limiting the swing should resolve it.

Yes I have tried to limit the swing but the tiller seems to be in a bind. I thought maybe if I extend the 2 control arms that would help

If you are running 14.9 28s the mower will contact the tires if the top link is too long, as well as excessive side to side travel.

Thanks I’ll check on that

Welcome to YT we try to be responsive. Two options: limit the swing travel with mechanical restraints like chains or telescopic struts, or modify the implement attachment points to increase their rearward location + lengthening the drive shaft. Setting the rear tires outward may also work! Jim

Thanks

If none of the other methods work just go to a quick hitch that would move your implement back about 3-6 inches . Big thing will be the spacing for the pins versus the qicktach. Might need to see if they could be tunred around to fit you quick tach or other means for it to wqork if not correct in the first place.

thanks

If you are running 14.9 28s the mower will contact the tires if the top link is too long, as well as excessive side to side travel.

I have 13.6 28 tires thought about welding 4”-6” to new control arms

 

[paul]

1. tillage equipment generally doesn’t like to be in the ground if you are making more than just a gentle curve. I’d rethink what you are doing with the tiller to have this problem….

2. Stabilizer arms as mentioned! For sure. This is your biggest issue.

3. A quick hitch or Pats system would extend your arms a couple inches and take care of any oversized tire issues. Usually makes hooking up implements much easier as well.

4. Welding on 5-6 inches somewhere can really mess up the geometry of how a 3pt works, and make problems you haven’t even thought of. Too many to list. I’d not do that, unless you are really experienced and know what you are doing and understand the problems you will need to deal with with that ‘fix.’ I would not do this. Can you find some cat 2 arms and test them, and see how that much extra length messes things up? I know they have bigger holes but would demonstrate the concept.

Paul

 

[Fritz Maurer]

What Paul said. If you really want to add on to something, I’d hang two angle irons off the front of the mower deck a couple inches , to move the whole triangle forward.
The simplest solution is set the stop on your control lever to stop the arms before the mower deck raises to the maximum radius of the tire.
You need to be careful raising the rotovator too high because the drive shafts are often very short and you could run out of swing at the U-joints before the hitch stops raising… could bend your tractor pto or cause some other needless carnage.

 

[Jim in LA]

I have a ford 850 tractor. The brush hog and pto driven tiller seems to be to close to rear tires. The implements rub the tires when I make turns. Any ideas of what to do?

You need stabilizer bars. They are $15-$20 on this site.

 

[Brown David]

Again, stabilizer bars will stop the excessive swinging side to side.

A cheap, easy solution.

They are the bars attached under the axle directly below the fenders. If your tractor doesn't have those brackets under the axle you will need to get them, or have them made, too.

Those bars will solve your problem.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Again, stabilizer bars will stop the excessive swinging side to side.

A cheap, easy solution.

They are the bars attached under the axle directly below the fenders. If your tractor doesn't have those brackets under the axle you will need to get them, or have them made, too.

Those bars will solve your problem.

Those bars are pretty indispensable for me. I use them with the rotary cutter, back blade, rear scoop bucket, sometimes with a drawbar,.......