Krone 250b round baler

[steve-in-ga]

Anyone here with experience with these Krone fixed chamber balers with twine tie system? When I go to twine wrap a bale, the two kooks grab the twine fine but after
starting the twine wrap I notice the hooks stop moving outwards and the twine is just slipping on the wheel that turns the chain that makes the hooks move. So what
happens is the twine is just wrapping around the bale forever in one spot. I stop the baler and can manually turn the wheel by hand a bit and then start the baler back up
and it will finish the wrap and cut process.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get to the chain to see what is going on. Any ideas of what may be causing this or how to get to the chain that operates the
twine hooks? Maybe a bearing in the twine wheel or something going out?

Any and all help is appreciated.

 

[James Howell]

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Maybe a bearing in the twine wheel or something going out?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Totally agree.

Had the same problem with our KRONE 260 this Summer.

Replaced both the spur gear and drive pulley.

The bearings were gone in both.

No more problems.

Hope this helps.

 

[James Howell]

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">how to get to the chain that operates the twine hooks?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Mechanism[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the guide rail (Key 27).

Remove the electric twine starter from the guide rail.

Remove the hex nut and bolt from the right side.

Remove the hex nut and bolt from the left side.

In the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Mechanism[/b:654c4848f0] diagram shown above, note the two pins (Key 35).

Slide the guide rail either left or right to clear either pin from the sheet metal.

Rotate the "free" end out away from the baler to remove the guide rail.

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Cutting Unit[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the hex head bolts (Key 3) and twine guide plate (Key 22).

Remove the six hex head bolts and remove the twine guide plate from the back of the guide rail.

Hope this helps.

 

[James Howell]

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">the hooks stop moving outwards[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"



Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Cutting Unit[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the master link (Key 23) and bushing (Key 24).

There are two master links with bushings installed on the chain an equal distance apart.

Take a look at the photo below of the master link and bushing moving the left plate outwards.

Take a look at the photo below of the master link and bushing moving the right plate outwards.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">the twine is just slipping on the wheel that turns the chain[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Mechanism[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Note the drive pulley (Key 11), pinion shaft (Key 13), sprocket shaft (Key 24), and spur gear (Key 25).

Take a look at the photo below of the drive pulley and spur gear.

The tension on the twine turns the drive pulley.

The drive pulley and pinion shaft turns the spur gear.

The spur gear and sprocket shaft turn the chain.

Hope this helps.

 

[steve-in-ga]

Wow. Thanks for all the info. My krone is pretty new to me and this is the first major issue I've had with it. But all in all I really like the baler. It's pretty simple like me -except for this double twine tie system.

Everything went from bad to worse this after noon on about my 3rd roll. The spur gear and drive pully will no longer move at all without force and I noticed the plastic spur gear is splitting from the middle out like too much pressure was placed on it by the drive pully. Now I am having to get off with every bale and manually move the string from inside and out on both sides. What a pain but the hay had to get baled.

Can the spur gear and drive pully and their bearings be replaced without removing the guide plate and guide rail?

Also, where do you get your parts? I may have to order them online.

thanks again for your help!

 

[James Howell]

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Can the spur gear and drive pully and their bearings be replaced without removing the guide plate and guide rail?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take another look at the [b:654c4848f0]Double Twine Tying Mechanism[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

Yes, it appears that all the parts for both the spur gear and drive pulley can be accessed without removing the guide rail.

I ordered a spur gear from a dealer that services KRONE equipment.

I removed the guide rail so that the "real" dealership mechanic could repair/replace any additional parts that were worn out.

Once the repairs were made, I still had some adjustments and changes to make before it was reinstalled in the baler.

<a href="https://youtu.be/0UJaC-r3plU">Works great</a> just like it did before the problem started.

Hope this helps.

 

[steve-in-ga]

Thanks for all your help.

 

[Bret4207]

FWIW, I have no interest in Krone balers, but those are super answers to the OP's question. Well done to James Howell!

 

[James Howell]

Thanks for the compliment.

I took photos and made notes just in case the same problem might happen with our other KRONE 125 baler.

My memory is just not what it once was.

Always do my best to identify the question and document my answer.