kverneland wont scour

tom upton

Member
Anyone have any tricks on getting a plow to shine up? I have a new to me Kverneland behind the 2-105 and for the life of me the darned thing wont scour. It is fairly sticky clay but I am like 7 or 8 acres into it getting off tractor and scraping moldboards 5 or 6 times a round and it still sticking to them. I even wire wheeled and tryed spraying with dry graphite didnt help. I am amost ready to change plows but this thing does a nice job in the sod I am turning over for about 20 feet until the dirt starts to stick to it.
 
This is from Oliver plow book , moldboard have to be matched to soil in order to scour.

Another question have the moldboards been painted ?

Heres a photo from the book ,you read .

cvphoto164895.jpg
 
Flap disc on a 4.5 grinder.Then soak it with your favorite rust buster,and grease it good when done plowing.
 
We used to grease our plows when we were done plowing to keep the rust off. One year we found out that cows will lick the grease off if given a chance. So we wire wheeled the plow to shine them up with an electric drill.
 
Best way was to plow our 4 acre sandy hill. Well only a round or two and it was good to go.

Second best was the more gravely field.

Drier ground will scour a tough plow better than wet ground.

Then there is the other 85% of our farm, sticky wet clay. It was tough going some years. Drier was better, getting the plow polished in the other 15% helped.

Paul
 
Dirt that sticky probably needs to be just chisel plowed and left for the winter to mellow it out and not try to plow it now with all the rain making it pretty wet. Usually if bottoms are greased and put inside they will scour and be shiny when they make the first round.
 
I've gone to using rust oleum from a spray can on mine. I've had plows sit for a few years outside and still no rust. I found grease outside around here is only good for about 1 year sitting outside. It wears off fairly quickly and until it does the dirt I have slides off the paint. If you want to bug your friends paint each bottom a different color.
 
Thanks for all the replys/suggestions. This plow was pretty rusty when I bought it, but I did allready flap wheel and wire wheel all the rust off. I am thinking the south side of the same field I am in may be a little lighter so maybe I will try it over there before I give up on it. I have plowed this same field before with a few different plows, none of which had what I call swedish mouldboads like this Kverneland. Maybe I should try a different plow with conventional mouldboards.
 
<iframe src=https://www.polyskid.com/category/tilling-products/poly-moldboard-cover/moldboard-plow-covers/kvernland/ width=600 height=450 style=border:0; allowfullscreen= loading=lazy referrerpolicy=no-referrer-when-downgrade></iframe>
 
If the ground is that sticky today do you really want to moldboard plow it now, or can you wait for it to dry out more? You might get a field full of large hard clods of dirt by plowing ground that is too wet. That makes a poor seedbed.
 
I can feel your pain, as my home farm has the same Woodville clay. I bought a 4 furrow MF 880 plough a few years ago that had sat outside for at least a decade or more, and hadnt been used . Even after IH had sanded some of the rust off, it was just loading up when I tried to fall plough with it . I did get it to shine up very nice when I spring ploughed some corn ground on the lighter land on my Penile Rd. farm. Only advice I could give is switch back to your old plough this fall, and bring this plough out and plough some ground during summer when its dry, if you can get the plough into the ground . I think I have some plough point replacement tips in the shed for a Kenvernlands plough, if I lay my hand on them, Ill bring them up to you. I no longer have that brand of plough.
 
Tom, The only easy way is to find a acre or 2 of Sandy soil. Next would be wire brushing the bottoms. (I am very lucky as almost all my land is Sandy loam. 1 round and all bottoms are shiny) dryer the soil the better
 

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