Massey Harris Colt Issues

[wore out]

Well, what the heck, another perfectly good theory blown right out of the water! ;-)

 

[used red MN]

Flat head is a reference to the design of the engine in
your tractor also referred to as a F-head. It is common
of many early 1900s engines. The valves are in the
cylinder block, beside the cylinder. The next more
common design is the L-head or overhead valve
design, as the name states the valves are over the top
of the cylinders. I have attached a link that described
those different designs plus an overhead camshaft
design. On the flat head design to access the valve
lifters and the adjustments the intake and exhaust
manifold need the be removed then there is a cover to
remove to get to them. The only other way to see the
valves without removing the cylinder head is through
the spark plug holes and then you only see the edges
of them.
Engine valve designs

 

[used red MN]

The push rod falling out does not apply to you engine.
..She is a flat head.. is rustred using a short cut way if
telling wore out that his suggestion of the pushrod
being out of place does not apply to your engine
because it is a ..flat head.. or valve in block engine. It is
unusual for an engine to have sticking valves and read
good compression. Just a few days ago someone had
this same problem and found even though the
compression was good when the valves had to move
faster when the engine was running they were sticking
just enough to cause the problem.

 

[MasseyHColt1979]

(quoted from post at 21:38:51 06/17/23) Another thought: partly plugged exhaust creating back pressure, cylinder still has residual pressure when intake valve starts to open. to check remove muffler and use your hearing protection when running.

I tried running the exhaust to see if plugged and it seems to be pushing exhaust out the stack pretty good. So I'm gonna check for sticky vavles I'm thinking the best way to check is remove the top and expose the cylinders and turn the engine by hand? Or is there a better way? Also whats the best way to get them unstuck if they are is there a any cleaning or spray that I could use if it's buildup

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would fathom to think his timing is off some the only way for it to push oil out the intake is ti have a valve leak on the exhaust or compression stroke from timing being off and still get the compression he claims to have on all cylinders. IF they were to tight to the point it would push oil out the intake it would seem to be a low er compression cylinder. A lot would also depend on ow much oil and how fast if a constant mist then i would suspect the manifold cross leak like mentioned. IF a sudden gush then I would suspect a valve is sticking for an instant in the intake side as it speeds up. If it were a cam lobe it would show a lower compression or no compression depending on how worn the lobe is. I would doubt a bad seal on a valve or it would also show a lower compression than he says it has. Or would have uneven readings from a bad cylinder.

 

[KL in Wi]

I had an M Farmall that would run perfect with no load. If you put a good load to it, you could tell that there was a slight miss and oil would come out the intake stack. If you worked it hard, it would backfire and soak the hood with oil. A few seconds after the load was off it went back to running perfect. Compression test showed nothing. Removed the head and took it in for a valve job. Didn't really know what else to do, figure it had to be something with an intake valve. One valve stem was warped a little. When you worked the engine, the head got hotter and the valve would stick. Release the load and the head would cool somewhat and the valve would let go and work. Gave it the valve job and one new valve. Never had that problem again.

 

[brooktre]

If you search for:

continential f-head overhaul manual

There are several manuals available for downloading. Look for one that includes the Continental F-124 engine. I believe this is the engine in your tractor. The manuals include tune-up and troubleshooting.

 

[leroy in ne]

FYI behind the manifolds there should be a sheet metal plate held on with 2 bolts. This is where you access the bottom side of the valves and check valve clearance. Also
if valves need grinding it must be done in a shop that has the equipment and shop space for tractor or at least the complete engine because the valve seats are located in
the engine block.

 

[rustred]

you have good info here,.. now you need to find someone to give you a hand with this. as i can tell this is most likely a first time job for
you. plus get a manual for sure and read up on this engine. even the valve adjustment is most likely over your head. you need a feeler guage
and the special thin wrenches for that. and find the actual specification for that engine. with out the spec. your lost off the bat. also
with a stcky valve its a good idea to add some mystery oil to the gas , if you dont have that then add engine oil or atf much as i hate to
say that. add i quart to the gas tank . there is also another way to get rid of carbon in an engine, have it running wide open and spray or
mist water into the intake of the carb. as much as she will take without stalling it. on an engine for overhaul water was also used at times
just before the tear down. there is all kinds of tricks out there mechanic's have. plus this is a one thing at a time diagnosis deal. as i
laid out prevously. dont think you would run a race too good with one workboot and one running shoe.