Mounting 16.9 tubeless tire

[SgtMoe]

Hello all, I am trying to mount some new 16.9-38 radial tubeless tires and I am having a impossible time of getting the beads to seat on the rim. I have tried the ratchet strap around the tire and a 10 gallon bead blaster with no luck. Once the bead starts going over the serrated part of the rim the air leaks out to fast to inflate. Any tips? Was hoping to stay tubeless but will put a tube in if I can't get them to bead up any other way.

 

[glennster]

take the valve core out and use a clip on air chuck. use either rue-glyde tire lube, napa has it or murphys soap to lube the bead. if you have time, order
a milton 731 recapper. plug. it is an air chuck fitting that screws onto the valve stem where the valve cap normally goes. with the core removed hook up
your air line. gives a great volume of air. when the bead pops up, un chuck the coupler and re install the valve core, then remove the fitting. you need
the long valve stem tool. here is a linknto the recapper plug. your local truck tire shop may have them for sale too
poke here

 

[Drew]

I mounted 16.9x38s on aluminum wheels tubeless last summer and it wasn't too terrible. If you have time and don't have to have the tires mounted right away, and if you have tubes already put the tubes in the tires and blow them way up to stretch the beads out for a few days. The ratchet strap around the tire did seem to help. I think we used some dish soap as lube to help the beads slide up onto the wheel better. If I remember right, I think we held the tire/wheel kind of upright instead of sitting on the floor.

Did you take the valve core out of the valve stem and use a clip on air chuck so its pouring air to it and you have both hands free?

I hope I never have to dismount these tires, they are glued onto the wheels with a whole caulk gun tube of black Permatex.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

The last tires I mounted were exactly that- 16.9x38 radial. I used a whole lot of Murphy's tire grease. Believe it or not, enough grease slobbered around the bead made the difference of getting them to take. I decided that was my last time. Bought a new pair of 16.9x30 for the front of my big tractor last year. The dealer installed them.

 

[moresmoke]

Take the tire chuck on step further. If you have air/liquid valves, use the quick coupler nipple of your choice and a 1/4 npt coupling. The coupling will fit over the large bore part of the valve stem well enough to stay there while you seat the beads.

 

[SgtMoe]

(quoted from post at 17:50:30 04/21/20) Take the tire chuck on step further. If you have air/liquid valves, use the quick coupler nipple of your choice and a 1/4 npt coupling. The coupling will fit over the large bore part of the valve stem well enough to stay there while you seat the beads.

I currently have normal metal style valve stems though I am on the hunt for some TR618A style. I am having a difficult time picturing how the coupler would stay attached to the valve stem. Do you hold the 1/4 npt plug over the valve stem or does it stay put on its own?

 

[Jim.ME]

I currently have normal metal style valve stems though I am on the hunt for some TR618A style. I am having a difficult time picturing how the coupler would stay attached to the valve stem. Do you hold the 1/4 npt plug over the valve stem or does it stay put on its own?[/quote]

I am kind of surprised you don't already have large bore stems on those rims for ballasting the tires. What are they on? TR618A is a type of large bore valve. A straight flow large bore chuck would be best. Lacking one of those, a female 1/4" NPT thread air chuck nipple will catch (but not correctly thread on) and grip to the external large bore thread (.485" - 26TPI). It will likely hold for seating the beads. Just beware it could blow off. If you want something to thread on properly you could go to TSC (or other place) and get a liquid fill adapter for ballasting tires. Use that to connect to your air hose by getting a male garden hose threaded adapter which you can adapt to your air hose nipple fitting. Can you post a picture of your current valve stem?

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 22:53:00 04/21/20)



I am having a difficult time picturing how the coupler would stay attached to the valve stem.

GOOGLE "HALTEC CH-360 Air Chuck".

 

[Jim.ME]

Just for comparison info. The Haltec CH 360 is for a car or truck size stem, not large bore. You would want a CH-360-OP, if you get one of those. The OP stands for open, it has no valve to push a core, it blows air all the time. This is the type used on tire changers and are supposed to have a shut off valve in the hose ahead of them. You would remove the valve core from the valve stem to use this type. It will pass more air than a regular tire chuck, which can be helpful in seating tire beads.

 

[SgtMoe]

I do all my own car and truck tires so I just used some regular bolt in valve stems I had laying around. I have done plenty of tube type tractor tires which are easy to bead up, just inflate the tube and make sure its not pinched anywhere. This is my first attempt at tubeless rear tractor tires. Thought my bead blaster would help but no such luck. I do have a liquid adapter so I will give that a try when the TR618A valve stems come in tomorrow (apparently none of the "farm stores" around here stock much for farming).

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 14:45:27 04/22/20) I do all my own car and truck tires so I just used some regular bolt in valve stems I had laying around. I have done plenty of tube type tractor tires which are easy to bead up, just inflate the tube and make sure its not pinched anywhere. This is my first attempt at tubeless rear tractor tires. Thought my bead blaster would help but no such luck. I do have a liquid adapter so I will give that a try when the TR618A valve stems come in tomorrow (apparently none of the "farm stores" around here stock much for farming).

Why would you expect farm stores to have tractor stuff one might need?

Get some "paste" type lube Like Camel or Truflate Tire mount STUF, FreyLube or such if you don't have any. Coat the rim and beads well with it. Strap around the tire. Then with the TR618A and liquid fill adapter you should be able to get a bigger volume of air going into it from your hose. Along with your bead blaster you should be able to get it.

 

[IowaJohn]

I'm with Bob Bancroft, Murphy's tire
grease slather it on big time, it works.
Plus you'll probably be able to scrape
most of it off back in the bucket for next
time.

 

[SgtMoe]

Thank you everyone for your help. Got the TR618A valve stems and using the air/liquid adapter got the tire to bead up fairly easily.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 20:58:07 04/26/20) Thank you everyone for your help. Got the TR618A valve stems and using the air/liquid adapter got the tire to bead up fairly easily.

Glad to hear you got, next one should be easier.

 

[Indiana Ken]

Glennster,

Trying to understand the Milton M-731 Recapper. Is the recapper straight though, meaning that when the air line chuck is removed the tire deflates? I appears that the valve core is installed before removing the recapper, why is that?

Thanks

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 08:36:07 04/27/20)
Glennster,

Trying to understand the Milton M-731 Recapper. Is the recapper straight though, meaning that when the air line chuck is removed the tire deflates? I appears that the valve core is installed before removing the recapper, why is that?

Thanks

Not Glennster but here is what I find on the Milton 731 series.

Yes, the tire will deflate if you remove your air hose. It is a straight through nipple that threads on an automotive size valve stem. They are available to fit different series air snap couplings. You remove the valve core from the valve stem and thread the 731 onto the valve stem's external threads. You then directly connect your air hose to the 731. With the core out of the valve stem, a larger volume of air can be passed into the tire to aid in seating the beads. Once the beads seat you can remove your air hose and using the proper core tool (one like a screwdriver) you can reach through the 731 and insert the core into the valve stem, then remove the recapper from the stem. If the beads stay seated you can remove it before installing the core. Either way air will escape when the air hose is unhooked to install the core. There are more expensive tools that allow installing a core with the hose still attached, so you don't lose air, such as this TSI tool.

 

[Indiana Ken]

Jim, Okay, once you remove the air line chuck; if you are quick about it, the valve core can be installed before all the air escapes from the tire. For this you would need the long tool to reach through the recapper.

Thanks - got it.