Never Painted a Tractor Before

[Rich V.]

I want to paint the sheet metal on my Farmall C. After bead blasting, there is much prep work to be done. After tapping dents out to the best of my ability, does body filler go on right over bare metal? What about all those small pits from rust where there are no dents? Do I go over the whole surface with body filler or does some kind of primer fill those. When to use etch primer vs epoxy primer? The gas tank has already been painted before (rattle can sandable primer and Rustoleum) and is very smooth. Can I paint over it or do I have to strip it? Sorry, lots of questions but no experience as a painter.

 

[rustyj14]

Dents that have been hammered on by an inexperienced person, can come back later, to haunt you! So----
Go out to a shop that sells auto body shop supplies, and buy a quart of plastic filler, a long sanding board/file, with the matching long-skinny sanding sheets in various grits, also a short board file and sand paper to fit Buy an applicator to put on the filler.. It will be a square plastic thing about 4 inches long, and semi-flexible.
If the dents are deep, you can bring them out a little, but not higher than the surrounding metal, at which point they must have the paint ground off, leaving some teeth for the filler to catch onto. Using the plastic spreader, scrape some of the filler into and around the dent area, and allow it to harden. then, using a board file, either long or short, sand in one direction to bring the plastic filler down to the same level as the surrounding area.
After that part is done, the filler and paint must be sanded smooth, then apply several coats of primer, and allow to dry. A good coat of Glazing putty must then be allowed to dry. Sand it with dry 120 grit paper, and blow off the dust, then reprime 3-4 coats. When you get all done with this section--you will then set back, holding yer sore fingers, and wondering just why you didn't have an expert shop do it for you! And, you will then know why shops charge so much for auto/truck/tractor refinishing! Time+materials+labor = cost of job, = Profit!
Have fun!! Rusty J. ex auto body man.

 

[CNKS]

Use epoxy, etch is redundant on sanded metal. Strip the gas tank, no need to leave the old cheap paint under good new paint. After using the dent repair that Rusty gives:An example of epoxy primer is PPG Omni MP170, it is not sandable, use 2 coats. Surfacer is Omni MP182--hardener has isos requiring a supplied air system, charcoal mask does not filter out isos--apply about 3 coats at a time, 5-10 minutes apart, sand smooth when dry, repeat until satisfied. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE P SHEETS (Insructions for use, they are not on the can) EXACTLY. If the dealer can't supply them, they are on the PPG web site. BUT, first read all of this forum first, it will answer a lot of your questions. You will have $3-$400 in materials before you are done, so be prepared for that, I have given you the economy version. Or you can do it for about $50 if you don't care what it looks like or how long it lasts.

 

[CNKS]

I was in a hurry when I typed the above. Epoxy only on the cast, no body filler or surfacer. Topcoat the whole thing with PPG Omni MTK 70019 (IH 50) or PPG Omni MTK 71310 (IH 2150) acrylic urethane, you need supplied air. You can get by with MAE acrylic enamel, no hardener, but you will like MTK much better.

 

[mike321]

Etch is not redundant on sanded metal. It gives it much better gripping power when used and sealed and painted.