New 8N to work on!

[Dan]

Buddy of mine just bought his first piece of property and moving from the city to the county. My FIL had an old 1950 8N in rough shape and not running he sold for cheap to get it out of his shop. Pulled the carb and rebuilt it, then replaced the fuel shutoff stem as it wouldn't shut off the flow of fuel. It got it running well enough to pull it onto the trailer and then into the shop.

Already know it needs new rear hubs, axle seals, and brakes just from examining it. I also smell Antifreeze when it warms up but no visible radiator leaks. Have to keep partial choke on to run smoothly. Buddy is buying all parts and paying me in beer for the labor. To be honest, I am happy I got another N Series to work on and can't wait to get started. Now, where did I put that I&T Manual?

 

[Dan]

First order of business - the fuel shutoff valve will not shut off the fuel. No matter how tight I turn the knob. I had a new in package replacement stem so I pulled the old one out and installed the new one. Even though the old one had a bad rubber seal, this did not fix my issue. Tank is now drained so I can get the valve off. I know I can roll the dice and get another shutoff valve from the land of almost right, but I am retired and have a lot of free time on my hands so... has anyone took one of these apart and successfully fixed it? What is the process?

TIA

 

[HFJ]

that part's problems were born in Dearborn, not China.

 

[Hobo,NC]

View attachment 64036

Buddy of mine just bought his first piece of property and moving from the city to the county. My FIL had an old 1950 8N in rough shape and not running he sold for cheap to get it out of his shop. Pulled the carb and rebuilt it, then replaced the fuel shutoff stem as it wouldn't shut off the flow of fuel. It got it running well enough to pull it onto the trailer and then into the shop.

Already know it needs new rear hubs, axle seals, and brakes just from examining it. I also smell Antifreeze when it warms up but no visible radiator leaks. Have to keep partial choke on to run smoothly. Buddy is buying all parts and paying me in beer for the labor. To be honest, I am happy I got another N Series to work on and can't wait to get started. Now, where did I put that I&T Manual?

This hold's true to most head gasket/cracked heads cracked heads a sure bet I have ran across on a N. If it drips coolant out the carb pull the exhaust manifold off to nail down the hole affected. Those small leaks can be difficult to locate.

 

[Dan]

This hold's true to most head gasket/cracked heads cracked heads a sure bet I have ran across on a N. If it drips coolant out the carb pull the exhaust manifold off to nail down the hole affected. Those small leaks can be difficult to locate.

Great idea as usual. Not seeing it out the carb yet. I can smell it back towards the battery of all things. No white smoke out of the exhaust and a sniff of the exhaust smells normal. No tell-tell white antifreeze residue streaks anywhere. I can see orange pucky around the manifold so if I have to pull it I am sure I can expect a lot of pitting on the block as well. Since it is for a good friend, I don't mind going the extra mile but don't want to break into things if I don't have to.

Thanks again for the expertise

 

[Hobo,NC]

Great idea as usual. Not seeing it out the carb yet. I can smell it back towards the battery of all things. No white smoke out of the exhaust and a sniff of the exhaust smells normal. No tell-tell white antifreeze residue streaks anywhere. I can see orange pucky around the manifold so if I have to pull it I am sure I can expect a lot of pitting on the block as well. Since it is for a good friend, I don't mind going the extra mile but don't want to break into things if I don't have to.

Thanks again for the expertise

I know you will figure it out, its just those that get ya you have to come up with a different battle plan. I had one that with the air cleaner tube off it would leave a drop of coolant on the floor it came out of the carburetor. I thru a head gasket on it I had the same problem. once I nailed it down to the cylinder I found a crack in the cylinder head I missed : (.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

View attachment 64036

Buddy of mine just bought his first piece of property and moving from the city to the county. My FIL had an old 1950 8N in rough shape and not running he sold for cheap to get it out of his shop. Pulled the carb and rebuilt it, then replaced the fuel shutoff stem as it wouldn't shut off the flow of fuel. It got it running well enough to pull it onto the trailer and then into the shop.

Already know it needs new rear hubs, axle seals, and brakes just from examining it. I also smell Antifreeze when it warms up but no visible radiator leaks. Have to keep partial choke on to run smoothly. Buddy is buying all parts and paying me in beer for the labor. To be honest, I am happy I got another N Series to work on and can't wait to get started. Now, where did I put that I&T Manual?

1ST welcome aboard the YT FORD N-Board. 2nd, ROOKIE/NEWBIE MISTAKE #1 ---- DO NOT START BUYING any new parts and swapping them out. Have you tested any? How do you know if old are defective? Follow? The APN-9194 Sediment Valve, a $7 part, is the only wear part on the Sediment Bulb and the seal fails in it eventually. Do you really want to to be trying to run tractor with a leaking fuel issue??? 3D point is to get the three most important ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read BEFORE you do anything else. They are the best investments you can do for yourself and your new 8N. Forget model year, more important is whether it is an early 8N with the front mount distributor or the later 8N with a side mount; and; if it is wired as the OEM 6V/POS GRN system or has a 12V switch job been done? Take note: many 12V jobs are done incorrectly. The Front Mount is a unique feature. What do you know about it? Have you ever tuned one up? I'd advise to get engine, fuel, hydraulics, and electrical all operating correctly first then worry about rear hubs, brakes, and beer.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

A) Original 8N Operator's/Owner's Manual
B) Original '39 - '53 MPC, (Master Parts Catalog)
C) I&T F0-4 Service Manual

REQUIRED If'N ya wanna be a FORD 8N Owner.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Dan]

1ST welcome aboard the YT FORD N-Board. 2nd, ROOKIE/NEWBIE MISTAKE #1 ---- DO NOT START BUYING any new parts and swapping them out. Have you tested any? How do you know if old are defective? Follow? The APN-9194 Sediment Valve, a $7 part, is the only wear part on the Sediment Bulb and the seal fails in it eventually. Do you really want to to be trying to run tractor with a leaking fuel issue??? 3D point is to get the three most important ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read BEFORE you do anything else. They are the best investments you can do for yourself and your new 8N. Forget model year, more important is whether it is an early 8N with the front mount distributor or the later 8N with a side mount; and; if it is wired as the OEM 6V/POS GRN system or has a 12V switch job been done? Take note: many 12V jobs are done incorrectly. The Front Mount is a unique feature. What do you know about it? Have you ever tuned one up? I'd advise to get engine, fuel, hydraulics, and electrical all operating correctly first then worry about rear hubs, brakes, and beer.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

A) Original 8N Operator's/Owner's Manual
B) Original '39 - '53 MPC, (Master Parts Catalog)
C) I&T F0-4 Service Manual

REQUIRED If'N ya wanna be a FORD 8N Owner.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)

Tim - thanks for your reply.

1st - I should probably welcome you to the forum as I have been here 6 years before you joined ;-)

2nd- I am far from a newbie and have completely rebuilt every aspect on 9N, 8N, and NAA tractors. Engines, electrical, transmission, hydraulic, differential, brakes, fuel, etc. Look up Project Rustbucket for a lot of fun. I prefer to rebuild original parts before replacing them. As I said above, I already replaced the valve stem with new packing, it did not fix the problem. Many have gone above just replacing parts and figure out why the parts fail and how to fix - this is the advice I am looking for.

My fist tractor, Delilah, is a 1948 8N (you can see it in the background on my pic above) and I have completely rebuilt the front mount distributor, as well as the one on my 1939 9N. I would say I have more than a working knowledge of these units.

Also, I have every manual on N Series tractors ever made, and most implements - originals as well as modern reproductions for dirty shop hand use. Most have been memorized and committed to memory but still in my shop library.

I am a Ford N Series fanatic and also pretty decent at turning a wrench. But there is ALWAYS more to learn from the great folks here who do things outside of the manuals to keep these great tractors running.

And lastly, I never forget about the beer! ;-)

 

[Hobo,NC]

Tim - thanks for your reply.

1st - I should probably welcome you to the forum as I have been here 6 years before you joined ;-)

2nd- I am far from a newbie and have completely rebuilt every aspect on 9N, 8N, and NAA tractors. Engines, electrical, transmission, hydraulic, differential, brakes, fuel, etc. Look up Project Rustbucket for a lot of fun. I prefer to rebuild original parts before replacing them. As I said above, I already replaced the valve stem with new packing, it did not fix the problem. Many have gone above just replacing parts and figure out why the parts fail and how to fix - this is the advice I am looking for.

My fist tractor, Delilah, is a 1948 8N (you can see it in the background on my pic above) and I have completely rebuilt the front mount distributor, as well as the one on my 1939 9N. I would say I have more than a working knowledge of these units.

Also, I have every manual on N Series tractors ever made, and most implements - originals as well as modern reproductions for dirty shop hand use. Most have been memorized and committed to memory but still in my shop library.

I am a Ford N Series fanatic and also pretty decent at turning a wrench. But there is ALWAYS more to learn from the great folks here who do things outside of the manuals to keep these great tractors running.

And lastly, I never forget about the beer! ;-)

I have for years referred back to Dan's post The # one reason is he actually found and referred to info in the manuals I normally in a rush skip over. Fer a Rookie he sure did pick it up fast. : ) "Tim" don't worry I think I poked him when he made his first post. Its a breath of fresh air to see him back : )