New alternator

[NDIHC]

No

Then your problem isn't with the alternator, it's an open circuit in your wire to the alternator. A bad wire or connection. That wire should have battery voltage even if the alternator isn't connected.

 

[Beckwith tree farm]

Testing at the alternator with the wire hooked up it has 12.4 volts
Unhook the wire from the alternator you have no volts

 

[Jim.ME]

Testing at the alternator with the wire hooked up it has 12.4 volts
Unhook the wire from the alternator you have no volts

Testing at the alternator with the wire hooked up it has 12.4 volts
Unhook the wire from the alternator you have no volts

To be clear. If the wire has 12.4 volts you have 12.4 volts at the alternator. The alternator will not have any voltage if you unhook that wire, it is not a battery, the wire has to supply power to the alternator.

The Delco 19135672 alternator was built as a 3-wire alternator, not a one wire. Are the two spade terminals open to be hooked to, or is there a rubber plug covering them? If they are open hook a jumper wire between the battery stud on the alternator and the #1 spade (the one on the left when looking at the back of the alternator) terminal and see if that makes it charge.

 

[Beckwith tree farm]

Ok I will try that. One is labled R and one is labeled E

 

[NDIHC]

Testing at the alternator with the wire hooked up it has 12.4 volts
Unhook the wire from the alternator you have no volts

That makes no sense. The alternator cannot produce voltage without an input voltage. That wire has to have battery voltage for the alternator to charge. Or are you saying the post on the alternator has no voltage with the wire disconnected? In that case that would be normal. An alternator doesn't work like a generator. It can't charge without input voltage. And if it is the wire that has battery voltage your response #14 was inaccurate. If I'm understanding you correctly, you have 12.4 volts at the bat post on the alternator with the wire connected. If that us accurate, you have an alternator problem. I was confused when you said that you do not have voltage at the bat terminal of the alternator in response 14.

 

[Jim.ME]

Ok I will try that. One is labled R and one is labeled E

Again to be sure we are looking at the same thing, before I say which terminal to jumper to. Does your alternator look like the 10SI picture or the 10DN picture? There are some of the 10SI and 12SI alternators that have a pin terminal by the R in that photo but like the picture it was not installed on most of them. If it is a 10SI with spades as shown in the picture they are commonly marked 1 and 2 at the sides of the spades.

 

[Beckwith tree farm]

It looks like the 10si

 

[Jim.ME]

It looks like the 10si

Jumper between the battery post and the #1 (excitation) spade for a test.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

No

That wire must have battery voltage to excite the alternator, and then it will charge. Your alternator is not bad. That wire probably feeds from the starter positive battery feed on the solenoid, but if you have an ammeter it will go thru it first, I think. Others may know the wire routing for sure. BUT, the alternator has to have a 'hot' wire to work. Mark.

 

[NDIHC]

That wire must have battery voltage to excite the alternator, and then it will charge. Your alternator is not bad. That wire probably feeds from the starter positive battery feed on the solenoid, but if you have an ammeter it will go thru it first, I think. Others may know the wire routing for sure. BUT, the alternator has to have a 'hot' wire to work. Mark.

In post #22 he said he has 12.4 volts at the hot wire. So I don't know which is true. No voltage or 12.4 volts. The answer to that question makes all the difference in the world!

 

[timcasbolt]

That wire must have battery voltage to excite the alternator, and then it will charge. Your alternator is not bad. That wire probably feeds from the starter positive battery feed on the solenoid, but if you have an ammeter it will go thru it first, I think. Others may know the wire routing for sure. BUT, the alternator has to have a 'hot' wire to work. Mark.

An alternator equipped with a self-exciting regulator (also known as a one-wire alternator) would not need an exciter wire to start charging.

 

[Jim.ME]

An alternator equipped with a self-exciting regulator (also known as a one-wire alternator) would not need an exciter wire to start charging.

While a one wire alternator does not need an exciter wire it does need power on the one wire that comes from a battery power source to use to internally excite the alternator. Mark was referring to Beckwith tree farm saying there was no power at the alternator in post #15.

The Delco part number Beckwith posted was not a one wire alternator as originally built. That is why I am suggesting using a jumper wire to excite it and see what happens, he may actually have a 3-wire alternator. To my knowledge Delco did not build the 10SI/12SI alternators as one wire, only 3-wire. The one wires are aftermarket modifications, and a Delco part number stamped into the housing is pretty much meaningless beyond what it was originally.

 

[Brown David]

In post #22 he said he has 12.4 volts at the hot wire. So I don't know which is true. No voltage or 12.4 volts. The answer to that question makes all the difference in the world!

Stuff like that is why I refrain from offering advice on threads like these.

 

[Jim in LA]

Will this help?

 

[NormanSavesTractors]

Looks like the great community here is offering you great guidance.

I will just leave this link here to everything we sell for a 12v conversion for your NAA.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=Ford&&md=NAA&cat=Electrical%20System&r=mcats

Keep us in mind if you do need to replace anything. You're here for help. We can also be here for parts for you too.

Be well everyone!

 

[Beckwith tree farm]

Thanks everyone for the help I appreciate it! I got it from here!!