New here, a few questions

[1 Acre Warrior]

I'm sure that the answers are in the forum, which I plan to go through when I have time.

As you might guess, I've got a whole, whopping acre to take care of, in rural Nevada. The lawn tractor didn't do a bad job, but it just wasn't up to dealing with the industrial-strength brush and weeds that grow here.

I have just bought a 1951 8N, S/N 404xxx. 6V, side distributor. Came with the Dearborn HD loader (beams, not pipes) and the optional air cleaner. This is a tractor with a job, not a beauty contestant, and I haven't even gotten it to a steam cleaner yet.

Was running when I got it, not running so well a couple of days later, acting like fuel starvation after about half an hour of work, but plenty in the tank.

I pulled the distributor cap, and the points are going to be replaced -- they are not properly lined up, and the cam has worn a notch into the rubbing block. I see that Blue Streak is the preferred brand, with Wells and Eichlin considered suitable.

Question 1: Could the points problem pretend to be a fuel problem?

Question 2: In your experience, am I better off rebuilding what seems to be the original carb, or replacing it? Kits on Amazon are $15 - 20, clone carbs are $45 and up.

Question 3: Does anyone know what the working load limit is for the Dearborn 19-8 Heavy Duty Loader?

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

Question 5: The "Proof-O-Meter" isn't working. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet, for all I know it's a bad cable, but the meter face is badly sunburned and unreadable. Is this as useful as I think it is, and thus worth replacing? If so, any source for one in decent shape?

Question 6: The generator may or may not work. If I have to replace it, should I just do a 12V conversion? Remember, this machine is a tool, I'm not concerned with keeping it stock, but at the same time don't want to do tons of upgrades.

Hope you folks can give me a few answers here.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:48:23 10/27/19) I'm sure that the answers are in the forum, which I plan to go through when I have time.

As you might guess, I've got a whole, whopping acre to take care of, in rural Nevada. The lawn tractor didn't do a bad job, but it just wasn't up to dealing with the industrial-strength brush and weeds that grow here.

I have just bought a 1951 8N, S/N 404xxx. 6V, side distributor. Came with the Dearborn HD loader (beams, not pipes) and the optional air cleaner. This is a tractor with a job, not a beauty contestant, and I haven't even gotten it to a steam cleaner yet.

Was running when I got it, not running so well a couple of days later, acting like fuel starvation after about half an hour of work, but plenty in the tank.

I pulled the distributor cap, and the points are going to be replaced -- they are not properly lined up, and the cam has worn a notch into the rubbing block. I see that Blue Streak is the preferred brand, with Wells and Eichlin considered suitable.

Question 1: Could the points problem pretend to be a fuel problem?

Question 2: In your experience, am I better off rebuilding what seems to be the original carb, or replacing it? Kits on Amazon are $15 - 20, clone carbs are $45 and up.

Question 3: Does anyone know what the working load limit is for the Dearborn 19-8 Heavy Duty Loader?

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

Question 5: The "Proof-O-Meter" isn't working. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet, for all I know it's a bad cable, but the meter face is badly sunburned and unreadable. Is this as useful as I think it is, and thus worth replacing? If so, any source for one in decent shape?

Question 6: The generator may or may not work. If I have to replace it, should I just do a 12V conversion? Remember, this machine is a tool, I'm not concerned with keeping it stock, but at the same time don't want to do tons of upgrades.

Hope you folks can give me a few answers here.

• [*:d61ba79f09]More likely fuel but you never know. Multiple strainers in the line and the tanks are notoriously loaded with debris. Replace the points if bad and remove the plug on the bottom of the float bowl and measure the flow rate. Should flow a pint in a minute plus. [*:d61ba79f09]Consensus is rebuild an original.[*:d61ba79f09]A 19-8 is a pipe loader so something is amiss in that description. Regardless they will lift well over 1000# which is more than prudent.[*:d61ba79f09]Typically a sign of axle seal leaks and oil soaked shoes.[*:d61ba79f09]New aftermarket meters and cables available here.[/list:d61ba79f09]
  
  TOH

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

Rog on it most likely being fuel. That's my guess, and I plan to go through the system.

I was hoping that would be the choice for the carb. Swaps are easy, but rebuilds aren't that much harder, and are a pleasant way to spend a few minutes on a warm day.

I have the PDF of the manual for the loader. Page 2, down at the bottom, says "NOTE: [i:2b5d46cd63]Loaders are shipped with Steel I-Beam or tubular construction. Performance and quality are identical." [/i:2b5d46cd63]

Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, but now that I know this isn't common, I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

What do you think about the meter, is it something I have a use for?

Thanks!

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:54:25 10/27/19) Rog on it most likely being fuel. That's my guess, and I plan to go through the system.

I was hoping that would be the choice for the carb. Swaps are easy, but rebuilds aren't that much harder, and are a pleasant way to spend a few minutes on a warm day.

I have the PDF of the manual for the loader. Page 2, down at the bottom, says "NOTE: [i:fdc604cb47]Loaders are shipped with Steel I-Beam or tubular construction. Performance and quality are identical." [/i:fdc604cb47]

Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, but now that I know this isn't common, I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

What do you think about the meter, is it something I have a use for?

Thanks!

The I-beam frame comment threw me off. After consulting the Master Parts Manual I see the Model 19-8A used I beams without the stiffeners used on the tubular lift arms. The rest of the frame and lift assembly is the tubular jungle gym arrangement. Is that what you have?

Brake shoes are specific to the tractor.

A new proof meter with cable is $49. IMO it is worth it.

TOH

 

[Royse]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new tractor!

The proofmeters, to me, are nice to have for maintenance intervals.
Keep in mind since they are mechanically driven, they are only
accurate when your engine is running at PTO speed. Not at idle.

[b:964d03a7a6]Seal kits[/b:964d03a7a6] and [b:964d03a7a6]brake shoes[/b:964d03a7a6] are available from our hosts.
If your bearings are still good, the individual parts are also available here.

I agree with rebuilding the original carb, but a proper rebuild will
take days, not "a few minutes on a warm day". Putting a kit in one
would only take a few minutes, but soaking and cleaning are
important for a proper rebuild with good results.

The generator can be rebuilt as well, if needed. Most of the
trouble I've had with the 6V systems are in the voltage regulator.
I've had new regulators last for less than a day.
Search the archives for "motor test" to test the generator.

If I were going to convert to 12V, I would buy the brackets from
YT also, along with the correct 5/8 wide pulley. The rest could
be sourced locally if you like, or you could buy the whole kit.

Best of luck with the new tractor!

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

The I-beam frame comment threw me off. After consulting the Master Parts Manual I see the Model 19-8A used I beams without the stiffeners used on the tubular lift arms. The rest of the frame and lift assembly is the tubular jungle gym arrangement. Is that what you have?

Yes. Above the pivot is I-beams, the tractor side is tubing.

Brake shoes are specific to the tractor.

Thanks.

A new proof meter with cable is $49. IMO it is worth it.

Thanks again.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

(quoted from post at 15:03:01 10/27/19) Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new tractor!

Thanks!

The proofmeters, to me, are nice to have for maintenance intervals.
Keep in mind since they are mechanically driven, they are only
accurate when your engine is running at PTO speed. Not at idle.

Okay. What I figure it might do for me is keep speeds where they need to be when running implements.

I agree with rebuilding the original carb, but a proper rebuild will
take days, not "a few minutes on a warm day". Putting a kit in one
would only take a few minutes, but soaking and cleaning are
important for a proper rebuild with good results.

Disassembly and prep are simple. Assembly isn't hard, but takes longer.

The generator can be rebuilt as well, if needed. Most of the
trouble I've had with the 6V systems are in the voltage regulator.
I've had new regulators last for less than a day.
Search the archives for "motor test" to test the generator.

If I were going to convert to 12V, I would buy the brackets from
YT also, along with the correct 5/8 wide pulley. The rest could
be sourced locally if you like, or you could buy the whole kit.

Best of luck with the new tractor!

Thanks again. Yes, it looks like it's pretty much a push of repair or conversion. I'll poke through the forum to see what people have to say about the pros and cons of conversion.

 

[Royse]

There are many pros to a 12V conversion. Brighter lights, 12V
accessories, common batteries and chargers, easier to jump start.

There are really only two cons in my opinion. Originality, which you
said isn't an issue to you; and the difficulties that come with not
doing the conversion correctly. Those are real struggles that can
lead to fires. Like the Jubilee I nicknamed [b:b6456c6abd]Krispy[/b:b6456c6abd]

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

Sounds worth doing, then, if I have to change either generator or battery.

 

[showcrop]

The carb needs an adequate flow of gas in order to do its job. Don't condemn it until you have cleaned and tested the fuel pathway to it. To test it remove the drain from the bottom of the float bowl and catch the gas. It needs to flow a pint in two minutes.

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 14:48:23 10/27/19)

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

When redone thoroughly and completely, the brakes on these old Fords can be OK. That being said, they are only so good. Don't compare to any modern auto your used to driving - No Comparison.

(quoted from post at 15:54:25 10/27/19)
Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, [b:da2f8115ad]but now that I know this isn't common[/b:da2f8115ad], I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

Thanks!

Who said this isn't common? If by common you mean the majority of N series tractors, then yes, poor / no braking is common.
why?
Because as was said, oil gets on the shoes. Fixing brakes properly on these tractors can quickly turn into a major job, sometimes costing more than the tractor itself. Depends on what caused the brake problem and how long it's been neglected.

 

[1 Acre Warrior]

There's a difference between poor brakes and pathetic brakes. My tractor is will toward that latter standard.

 

[8NChris]

(quoted from post at 09:18:29 10/28/19)

(quoted from post at 14:48:23 10/27/19)

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

When redone thoroughly and completely, the brakes on these old Fords can be OK. That being said, they are only so good. Don't compare to any modern auto your used to driving - No Comparison.

(quoted from post at 15:54:25 10/27/19)
Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, [b:c026b3df18]but now that I know this isn't common[/b:c026b3df18], I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

Thanks!

Who said this isn't common? If by common you mean the majority of N series tractors, then yes, poor / no braking is common.
why?
Because as was said, oil gets on the shoes. Fixing brakes properly on these tractors can quickly turn into a major job, sometimes costing more than the tractor itself. Depends on what caused the brake problem and how long it's been neglected.

ll the 12 volt conversions use Chevrolet alternators. Is it a fairly uncommon practice to use Ford with external regulator? I built a new harness for my F-250 and went with a 3G Ford. Been thinking of swapping the 8N's Chevrolet alternator for the rebuilt 40 amp Ford.

 

[8NChris]

(quoted from post at 21:34:21 10/28/19)

(quoted from post at 09:18:29 10/28/19)

(quoted from post at 14:48:23 10/27/19)

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

When redone thoroughly and completely, the brakes on these old Fords can be OK. That being said, they are only so good. Don't compare to any modern auto your used to driving - No Comparison.

(quoted from post at 15:54:25 10/27/19)
Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, [b:15867ff2cc]but now that I know this isn't common[/b:15867ff2cc], I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

Thanks!

Who said this isn't common? If by common you mean the majority of N series tractors, then yes, poor / no braking is common.
why?
Because as was said, oil gets on the shoes. Fixing brakes properly on these tractors can quickly turn into a major job, sometimes costing more than the tractor itself. Depends on what caused the brake problem and how long it's been neglected.

ll the 12 volt conversions use Chevrolet alternators. Is it a fairly uncommon practice to use Ford with external regulator? I built a new harness for my F-250 and went with a 3G Ford. Been thinking of swapping the 8N's Chevrolet alternator for the rebuilt 40 amp Ford.

All the 12 volt conversions I HAVE NOTICED used Chevrolet alternators.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 00:37:25 10/29/19)

(quoted from post at 21:34:21 10/28/19)

(quoted from post at 09:18:29 10/28/19)

(quoted from post at 14:48:23 10/27/19)

Question 4: The brakes seem to be mostly for moral support. Do they work well enough that I should go to the effort to put on new shoes, or should I just be happy with what I have?

When redone thoroughly and completely, the brakes on these old Fords can be OK. That being said, they are only so good. Don't compare to any modern auto your used to driving - No Comparison.

(quoted from post at 15:54:25 10/27/19)
Rog on the brakes. Once I give it a bath, I'll check for leaks. It's not a major issue, my lot is flat so even poor brakes are sufficient, [b:51a49ffd7f]but now that I know this isn't common[/b:51a49ffd7f], I'll dig into it. Are the shoes specific to the tractors, or are they a car part?

Thanks!

Who said this isn't common? If by common you mean the majority of N series tractors, then yes, poor / no braking is common.
why?
Because as was said, oil gets on the shoes. Fixing brakes properly on these tractors can quickly turn into a major job, sometimes costing more than the tractor itself. Depends on what caused the brake problem and how long it's been neglected.

ll the 12 volt conversions use Chevrolet alternators. Is it a fairly uncommon practice to use Ford with external regulator? I built a new harness for my F-250 and went with a 3G Ford. Been thinking of swapping the 8N's Chevrolet alternator for the rebuilt 40 amp Ford.

All the 12 volt conversions I HAVE NOTICED used Chevrolet alternators.

Most conversions use the Delco alternators because they are relatively cheap, very familiar, readily available, have internal
regulators that do not have to be wired to an external regulator and the wiring diagrams for them are easy to come by.
There is absolutely no reason any other brand would not work as long as you know how to wire it.

 

[8NChris]

Ok. It will be one of those jobs I'll ask myself why am I doing this? While I am doing it.