Noisey Gears

That nut is hard to reach. Part of your sloppiness may have been a combination of the shaft and the adjusting nut allowing the fork/shaft to rise too much. Once it rises, the pins lose their proper engagement and create a lot of slop.

When I went to remove my shaft nut, it wasn’t hard to break loose, just hard to get to. My lower ball joint fork was too tight on the lower splines to remove even after removing the nut and soaking it with penetrating oil and heat.
 
Closed up the steering box today after making one more modification. The only place that I had some play was at the compression boss where the steering wheel shaft meets the input at the steering box. JD provided a pinch bolt but mine seemed worn out because it didn’t help to tighten it up. So I cross drilled a 5/16” hole for a bolt.

I took it out for a nice drive, lefts-rights tight turns and “lazy S” turns. The steering now is as good as new (no really!) there is literally no play at the steering wheel. When the wheel moved ever so slightly, the wheels are responding. This project was well worth the cost and time it took me to complete it.

4- ball joints were purchased from Steiner Tractor parts. I’ve used them a lot for various parts I had to purchase for the restoration. Great customer service and reasonable prices too. I’ve also used Yesterday’s Tractors and Jen Sales.

I power washed it after the test run today in preparation for installing the freshly painted hood and radiator cover. Then, I’ll start taking care of the wheels. There’s a local Harvest Festival on Saturday I’d like to attend and participate in the parade. Never been in a parade.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9441.jpeg
    IMG_9441.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9440.jpeg
    IMG_9440.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9439.jpeg
    IMG_9439.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9438.jpeg
    IMG_9438.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9442.jpeg
    IMG_9442.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9443.jpeg
    IMG_9443.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
I finished the new pin and installation and it turned out great. Steering slop went from about 40* to 10*. It’s really a world of difference and worth the effort.

Anyone trying this I recommend setting the front wheels straight ahead. The pin fork inside should be pointing center left. Then after you’ve removed the top fork, note the position of the worm so it’ll go back together with equal L-R steering wheel movement. Once it’s re-welded you won’t be able to redo it.

I say this because when I tested it, it wouldn’t turn as sharp to the Left as the Right. I started to panic and a closer look found that I put the tie rod threaded end clamps in the wrong position on the top of the tie rod. All I had to do was loosen and swing them around to the bottom.

Nice repair on the pins!
 
I finished painting the two front wheels today. They were easy to handle. I want to pull off the rears to do them, but I’m a little scared I won’t be able to get them back on by myself. I was told by the p previous owner that they are filled with beet juice
 
I went out to try to get the rear wheels off and they are rusted up. So I abandoned taking them off for today and went ahead and cleaned up the front sides really well and painted those. They turned out really well and it only took a few hours.

When I get some new rear tires I’ll cut them off with my plasma cutter, get them sandblasted and re-painted before mounting the tires.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9457.jpeg
    IMG_9457.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9458.jpeg
    IMG_9458.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9460.jpeg
    IMG_9460.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9459.jpeg
    IMG_9459.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_9454.jpeg
    IMG_9454.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top