Oliver 1755 hydraulic remote repair

[RedZeppelinXJ]

Hey guys I ve got a question about the hydraulic remotes on an Oliver 1755.

I bought this tractor out of a hedgerow a few years ago where it had been parked because it needed a lot of small repairs. It has 20k+ hours but is in decent shape overall. The only thing I haven t gotten fixed yet is the hydraulic remotes.

One remote works but the lever is so stiff even after what seems like gallons of WD-40 than my mother and wife have a difficult time using it. The second remote doesn t work at all and the lever is stuck firm in place and the hoses and female remote ends were removed years before I bought it.

The question is do I just need to rebuild the remotes with the kits with pop-its in them or is there something else I need to do to free up the levers and do you need to open up the top of the rear end to work on anything in there? Thanks for any input and advice.

 

[rrlund]

Those valves are stacked on the right side near the back,under the seat. No covers have to be removed. I'm just guessing the spools are rusted inside the housing from moisture.

 

[MikeO-WI]

If rusted the parts might be pitted. I have seen a number of them for sale on ebay or you can try Maibach Tractor in OH. They have completely rebuilt two sets for me since I am tired of the units leaking. They might have used ones too.

 

[rrlund]

Hey Mike,I've been meaning to ask. I have a leak on my 2-105. Should be the same unit. It's leaking where the whole block bolts to the rear end housing. Do I have to take all the bolts out so the valves fall apart from one another or will the whole thing unbolt as a unit so I can just replace the o-ring behind that? I looked at the schematic,looks like just one o-ring,but it wasn't clear to me if it would all come off in one piece.

 

[2-strokeDD]

First are the valves stuck or are the levers just stuck where they pivot on the shaft. Then if they are free you can unscrew the detent assembly along with the valve and remove it. Then disassemble the detent
and clean it up. Is one of the valves a float valve and one a detent valve or are they both detent valves?

 

[MikeO-WI]

Each of the valve bodies will have to come off before you can get to remove the block you are describing. I have 10 of these tractors with the same setup. there is at least one bolt that i recall that in hidden under the inside valve body in recessed spot. Out of curiosity, i have found the inside block to not be much of an issue since any oil going back into the reservoir is usually at a lower pressure. However now that you mention this I will be getting replacement o-rings for this also. After 40+ years of hot and cold, they will go bad. Hope this helps.

 

[rrlund]

Thanks. There's not a whole lot of room in there on the 105 with a cab. The cab frame hangs down low right there.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

I was just a pup working at Archie Imp. CO. when the 55 series tractors were new. Reading a post about a fence-row 1755 makes me feel just about as old as I guess I really am. gm

 

[RedZeppelinXJ]

(quoted from post at 10:20:13 03/08/20) I was just a pup working at Archie Imp. CO. when the 55 series tractors were new. Reading a post about a fence-row 1755 makes me feel just about as old as I guess I really am. gm

Gary, my dad worked on the farm where this tractor was bought new and watched it roll off the truck in 74. He always talked about how he lived running that tractor...fast forward about 40 years and I tracked it down after being passed through half a dozen owners and found it parked in the weeds 3 miles from my house. Hadn t been used in about a year and it was in rough shape but hooked up the jumper cables and she ran like a freight train so we brought it home and have slowly been fixing the little issues that had it parked.