Poll barn roof?

[Geo-TH,In]

Choose one.

A metal roof with 1 inch of foam vapor barrier on inside of roof. Leaving eves and ridge open. Not covering foam on roof.

Or put trusses on 2 foot centers, OSB and 30 year architectural shingles.

Price for shingled roof is about $1500 more.

Cast your vote for the best roof.

At 70 I think either roof will outlive me.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Dang smartphone changed pole to pull.

 

[old]

Nope you phone changed it from pole to poll. As for insulation I would put down foam board then the metal roofing

 

[gears]

I ran steel and have no regrets.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

My concern is foam board is flexibility , allowing metal to move. Spray foam will make metal more ridged.

 

[old]

Spray foam is the better option but also cost 2 or 3 times as much. I know if I could afford it I'd have it done to a couple of buildings I have

 

[Geo-TH,In]

The cost for shingles is about 3x more than the foam on metal. I wan a continuous vapor barrier. No seams.

 

[Adirondack case guy]

Exactly!!! You can't put steel over foam board and make a solid connection that will not leak.--------------------Loren

 

[old]

If that is the case go with the spray foam and be done with it

 

[Stephen Newell]

I like the steel roof however if you think you may ever want to heat the building I would use vinyl faced roll insulation instead of the foam board.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Stephen,
No plans to pay for heating. Only want a place to store my toys. If the sun is out, the metal on sides will act like a solar collector and warm the barn about 10 degrees about outside temp.

 

[kcm.MN]

My choice would be to have spray foam applied. No need for eaves or ridge venting as everything is sealed. Another plus for this method is that it adds great rigidity to the roof steel -- sorta 'glues' it all together.

If I understood correctly, someone in another post was worried about getting moisture trapped between the steel and the spray foam. If the building is allowed to air out with doors open for a day or two beforehand, there will be no moisture problems. Spray foam would be best applied when weather is warm and dry, but can be done anytime.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Well, George, once again you are [i:654c4848f0]withholding information[/i:654c4848f0]!

Where do you intend to put this building? If it will be next to your house and your house has a shingled roof, then it makes sense to have the roof of the building match the roof of your house. That's what I did with my post-frame shop; I went with a shingled roof and fir T1-11 siding, because it matches the shingled roof and cedar shiplap siding of our house. But if you're going to put it out on the back forty, then shingles don't make a lot of sense.

You mention putting trusses 2' OC for shingles, which leads me to believe the steel roof will have trusses 4' OC. I have a hard time believing the 4' OC trusses will provide the same snow load rating as 2' OC, even allowing for the additional weight of the shingled roof. I'd ask the builder what the snow load rating will be with each roof. Maybe 4' OC is adequate in the balmy climate of Terra Hot, but up here north of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-102_(Michigan_highway)">Base Line Road</a> I'd want 2' OC even with steel.

You also didn't mention how thick the OSB sheathing will be. 7/16" OSB is barely adequate for 2' OC with clips, so I would insist on at least half inch. My building was spec'd with 1/2" OSB, but Carter Lumber delivered 5/8". (I assume they were short on 1/2".) My roof is SOLID, and if I ever build another shingled roof I'm going to use 5/8".

Something to consider with steel siding is the roof pitch. If you use typical 4/12 pitch trusses, a steel roof is going to be very slippery. My brother, who used to have a construction company specializing in steel and post-frame buildings, was seriously injured falling off a steel roof. A windstorm had deposited sand on the roof and his crew was sweeping it off when my brother slipped near the peak of the roof. He slid the whole width of the roof, then fell 14' feet into a dung heap, sending his ankle through the bottom of his foot. And I think the pitch of this roof was much less than 4/12.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> Exactly!!! You can't put steel over foam board and make a solid connection that will not leak.--------------------Loren

If your roof leaks, either you're using the wrong fasteners or installing them incorrectly.

The link below shows the right screws to use. They have two separate threads: one thread screws into the purlin while the other pulls the washer tight. And there's an unthreaded section so the insulation panel isn't crushed.
Screws attach panels over rigid insulation

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Mark,
Well, George, once again you are withholding information!

I don't see it necessary to post everything about how the barn will be constructed. Everything built in my county has to first be approved by Area Planning, then Board of health and finally the County Building Inspector which knows what he's doing.

I've had to jump through the hoops to please the building inspector a few times. The construction will be done right.
Mark, it will be done by the book.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> I don't see it necessary to post everything about how the barn will be constructed.

George, I will note for the Record that you didn't answer my question: Where you gonna build the thing? Next to your stately mansion with its slate roof and copper gutters, or out back in the sticks?

 

[Stephen Newell]

All you would need then is the foam or something on the ceiling to prevent condensation.

 

[dcarp]

Metal roof with spray foam. Our whole house is insulated with spray foam. It?s extremely quiet and very easy to heat and cool. I would never use shingles for a pole barn.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Mark,
You must have confused me with someone else.
I don't have a mansion. Don't have to worry about HOA either. Don't have to worry about neighbors complaining either. They are smart to keep their mouth shut.
Poor man's home.

It took me 5 years to build a new house around a two bedroom ranch.

If only I were younger I would build pole barn myself.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Well, George, that sure looks like a mansion to me, even though you opted for fiberglass shingles instead of the traditional slate.

If I was building a pole barn next to such a fine-looking manor, I'd sure want their roofs to match. Cheers.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Mark, my pole barn builder doesn't like shingles. His guys aren't as fast as my roofer. My roofer could deck and shingle the pole barn and be done before 4 pm the same day. No kidding. He's good and fast.

The shingles on my house are going to need replaced soon. I'm past due for a hail storm which replaced my shingles 22 years ago.

My roofer is a former student. Has done many roofers for me. Even had him frame up a 26x26 room addition. He and I both like cost plus contract. I pay for all materials. He charges me labor only.

I my contract pole barn builder to do everything except deck and shingle.

That way all shingles will be 35 year architectural same color.

 

[Bill VA]

I used trusses 2ft on centers with 5-ply 5/8 inch thick plywood with metal roof. Vented 2ft overhangs.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> I my contract pole barn builder to do everything except deck and shingle. That way all shingles will be 35 year architectural same color.

George, that's probably what I would do as well. When the hoi polloi wander past your fine estate, they will surely admire your matching roofs. And should they show insufficient respect, you can always chase them off with your deadly lawnmower.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> I used trusses 2ft on centers with 5-ply 5/8 inch thick plywood with metal roof. Vented 2ft overhangs.

Well that's a solid roof. Shouldn't have to worry about snow load. Not in VA, anyway.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Mark,
Once again you only know half the story. I keep my death machine at my other place 25 miles south in a pole barn where the pole barn's shingles and color of siding matches the house.

If I have to run anyone off, I use a 12g.
Geo

 

[MarkB_MI]

Yes, George, with full disclosure everything snaps into focus. Thanks for the tip; I'll admire your estate from a safe distance.

 

[rlp in Co.]

If you are going to put trusses 2' oc. I would drywall the ceiling and blow in insulation. That way you don't have to waste a lot of heat heating the whole attic space. The insulation is probably a lot cheaper too, but I haven't priced it.

 

[K Effective]

It's Terre Haute- get some blue tarps from Harbor Freight and a staple gun, you should fit right in! And, with any luck, those will outlast you, too!!


[b:70da1fc1b8]I'm just kidding, George.[/b:70da1fc1b8] I went with sheated and shingled on our last pole barn, since the first one was aluminum (yes, a 1974 Wickes Building, all siding and roofing is aluminum). The shingles are MUCH quieter in the rain/sleet/snow. If only I could have gotten the Sherrif-Goslin shingles to match the cow barn at a reasonable rate.

 

[GordoSD]

I would do a brick fa?ade on that old shop out back to match the house first.