PTO Yoke Replacement

Willow Lane

Member
Location
Central Maine
I tried to replace a yoke on a PTO shaft yesterday and run into a new to me problem. I removed the locking clips and pressed the cross sideways to remove the first cup, which typically pushes the cup out of the yoke, but the cross bottomed out on the yoke before the cup was out of the yoke. I clamped the cup in a vise and tried driving the yoke off, but no matter how tight I had the vice, all I did was drive the whole assembly out of the vise. Any suggestions on how to get the cups out without destroying either the yoke or the cross?
Thanks
 
If the yoke clips are at the cup end, I've had that happen if there's paint or rust on the yoke cup ID above the clip groove. I've used an air Dremel deburr tool to clean up the area above the groove so the cups will pull out easier with pliers or vise.
 
I expect the cup was on the tapered portion of the cup and if new could have been easily removed. With the buildup of rust on the tapered portion of the cup that does not happen. My solution is to roast that cup with a torch cool it with spray oil and then with a bit more beating it pops out. The air hammer solution may work better. Several of my friends have suggested that I tend to use the torch more then I should.
 

After moving one cup as far as possible out, you can move or push the cross the other way to normal position or more.

Then use a pick to get the needle bearings to fall into the bottom of the cup. Then redo the cross push, with the needle bearings in there to push it just a bit more.

Or use some small ball bearing balls (but big as allowed) into the cup that did not go far enough.
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(quoted from post at 07:01:56 04/20/23)
After moving one cup as far as possible out, you can move or push the cross the other way to normal position or more.

Then use a pick to get the needle bearings to fall into the bottom of the cup. Then redo the cross push, with the needle bearings in there to push it just a bit more.

Or use some small ball bearing balls (but big as allowed) into the cup that did not go far enough.
.

I think the intention is to re-use the cross.

Frankly I think it's a fool's errand to try. Crosses are not that expensive and your sanity is worth something.

Normally I would just grab the cup with a vise grip and twist it out. The needles will probably fall out, some on the floor in the dirt never to be seen again.
 
I haven't tried it yet, but I believe Dieseltech has the answer. As to the story behind this, I bought a bale shredder and it's a 1000 RPM machine with a 6 spline 540 yoke, so all I'm doing is replacing the front yoke with the correct one to fit the tractor. Apparently some tractors in Europe have a 2 speed PTO that doesn't require changing the output shaft on the tractor, just a shift lever in the cab. And if I mess something up in the process, there is a new cross setting on the shelf if I need it, but then I have 4 chances of having problems instead of just 2.
 
Drive each opposed cup out as far as possible by setting the other 2 yoke ears on the jaws of a vice and hammering down on the first yoke so the cup comes out as far as possible. Then flip it over, resting the other side of the yoke ears on the vice jaws and again hammer the yoke down to pop the other cup out as far as possible. Usually, the cross will come out of the yoke now. Then use a punch to knock the cups out the rest of the way.
 
If you have a press flip it over and push the other cup out. Then you should have enough room to get the cross out. Usually the yoke was the more expensive item and on big stuff one yoke side was held on with straps. If you get one side a tool that fits on the cross to push down on the cross to force the cap out is nice and can save you a cracking a yoke. This is easily made by cutting a half moon relief in 2 pieces of square tubing and welding them together with another piece of tube spanning them. Also for your own sanity dont reuse cross if it wasnt for rework we wouldnt have any work...
 

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