Question for electrician guys.

I’m struggling to follow this thread, often electrical threads are fun here.

This one I’m not sure what is trying to be accomplished? Seemed a lot of cross over from different voltage specs to different plug types not really sure where we are headed.

25 hp electric motors are the real stuff, anything over 10 hp needs some pretty stout wiring. And the inrush, or starting loads get to be an issue that smart folk end up dealing with, not folk like me that read a few wiring pamphlets. :)

Paul
It will get confusing with all these numbers flying around, but the main question is what I can get away with in terms of AWG conductor size, and i decided that the cheapest way out is 6ga. extension cord for around $250 and run it at 230 volts. No information is available on this generator, and I'm afraid of what it might cost to switch it over ..... I doubt there's a shop out there that's under $100 / hr..

Apparently, the 30 amp draw spec on the plate must mean when you're sweating the motor at the full 25 hp.... motor sitting on the floor free-spinning, the generator doesn't even flinch when the switch is thrown...and that is with a short 12ga. extension cord we made up for test purposes.
 
That's me..
If you look at the tag.
240 volts - 90 Amps. Starting or running amps.

It's going to take one heck of a huge generator to produce 90 amps at 240 volts. It would need to be in the 20+Kw range.

Coming off of the power grid. I would install a sub panel and wire it for 240 volt three phase.
The tag says 30Kw 3 phase genrator 240 v @ 90 A
 
It will get confusing with all these numbers flying around, but the main question is what I can get away with in terms of AWG conductor size, and i decided that the cheapest way out is 6ga. extension cord for around $250 and run it at 230 volts. No information is available on this generator, and I'm afraid of what it might cost to switch it over ..... I doubt there's a shop out there that's under $100 / hr..

Apparently, the 30 amp draw spec on the plate must mean when you're sweating the motor at the full 25 hp.... motor sitting on the floor free-spinning, the generator doesn't even flinch when the switch is thrown...and that is with a short 12ga. extension cord we made up for test purposes.

Hi again Fritz, your MAIN question:
It will get confusing with all these numbers flying around, but the main question is what I can get away with in terms of AWG conductor size,
As I posted above:

1) FWIW based on which charts I looked at the FLA for a three phase 25 HP Induction Motor at 230 was 60 to 68 Amps.....

2) Of course you may NEVER load it up to that 60 to 68 amps ?????????? but no way I can know that from here ???????????? and be aware the 6 Gauge extension cord you propose is likely rated for 50 Amps

Sooooooooooooo thats all the data I have to offer and its YOUR place and YOUR work so best wishes and sure with a light load NEVER reaching 60 FLA, you may well be fine. If needed an HACR breaker may be in order to allow for the higher initial amperage inrush but sure a standard thermal magnetic circuit breaker depending on size will likely be fine with a light load. NOTE a motors branch circuit overload protection is for protecting the conductors while a motor has its own (or in its starter) thermal protection. Back in my day and the NEC when and where I practiced and before HACR use the breaker could be higher than the conductors rating because it would still trip under a short circuit while the motors thermal would protect the motor.

Good luck Fritz best wishes hope this helps.

John T Longggggggggg retired n rusty so nooooooooo warranty lol
 
I'm more interested with what you are going to turn the generator with. Gas engine diesel or another electric motor. As if I read the tag right those figures are all output from the generator or needs that have to be met like the RPM for it to work correctly. And then you are going to run an electric motor with this to operate a shedder is this the correct understanding.Because I think most of the feedback you are getting is they think this is your motor not the generator. OR am I all wet on this.
 
So why not just palletize the engine and shredder to move with forks and skip the electric motor for this and save the cost of the wire for the extension cord and not be tethered to a cord?
 
Money. I don't have any clutch to fit a no. 1 flywheel housing, nor the expense to rebuild the existing power unit.

I already have all the electrical components, for a couple bucks to make them all work together.
 
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