Re: Problem with Hydraulic Top Cover Rebuild - New Ram

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

That's what you get when you buy the low budget, cheap, Cheena cloned junk. Be thankful you didn't buy a new hydraulic pump base - those have an interference issue as well. It matters where you buy from. Your cylinder should be OK if it doesn't interfere with anything. It's possible they drilled the mounting holes off. Me? I'd take it back and demand a full refund, but then I have better sources for parts and never had this problem. One other important thing, and you don't mention it, is what model of N are you doing? I'd say by the red paint on the top cover is an 8N but, never assume. The issue is that the 9N/2N cylinders are different than the 8N. SEE PICTURES - That is, the 8N has a cast scallop on it at 7 O'Clock as it is mounted in order to clear the control rod. 9N/2N models do not have the control rod, they have a 'wishbone bracket' and thus do not need/have the scallop clearance. Some new cylinders sold today do not have the clearance either so you'd have to grind or mill clearance on it yourself. Note my original 9N-510 cylinder that I modified with the clearance to fit my 8N top cover. See the 8N top cover and control rod? Note also the clearance on cylinder and top cover -not much there. Finally, once cover is back on and ready to secure, you will want to torque the bolts down. FWIW & FYI: You may or may not be aware on applying torque correctly but here goes for those who want to know. Top cover bolts are 7/16-14 GR 5 equivalent. The I&T FO-4 Manual states bolts to be torqued at 53-60 Foot/Pounds. I use a mean value of 57 ft/lbs. Torque is properly set in three steps and using a specific sequence, usually working from inside outward. First setting is 19 ft/lbs; 2nd setting is 38 ft/lbs; and final setting at 57 ft/lbs. Torques wrenches often have multiple settings, so be certain you use the correct scale and never use a torque wrench to loosen a fastener - always apply in the CW/tightening direction. When locking in a setting always turn setting thimble back a few turns to take out excess backlash and sneak up on required setting. There are two short (3/4) bolts and two long (1-1/2) bolts so use your MPC and diagram for proper position. See my article for details. Email to see my article on Rebuilding the 8N Hydraulic System in the in the How-To's forum on the other N-Tractor site. Hope this helps…

OEM 9N-510-D CYLNDER left, & MODIFIED 9N-510-B, right, WITH MACHINED SCALLOP FOR 8N CLEARANCE:

OEM 9N TOP COVER w/WISHBONE FORK LINKAGE:

8N TOP COVER w/OEM 9N-510-B CYLINDER, MODIFIED:

8N TOP COVER w/CONTROL ROD & OEM 9N-510-D CYLIDER w/SCALLOP:

FORD 8N TOP COVER – 7/16-14 TORQUE set at 57 FT/LBS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Dean]

Agreed.

I gave up on aftermarket parts about 15 years ago after a couple of VERY bad experiences and avoid such like the plague.

Dean

 

[Orion231]

This is a 1951 8N. The new cylinder has a scallop cast into it but it is smaller than the scallop on the original cylinder. I wasn't trying to buy cheap. I bought this one here at Yesterday's Tractors and have always had pretty good luck with their parts. I am also about 3 hours driving time from them. Not sure where I would buy one that is new so where would you recommend I find a replacement if not here? The one on another site looks the same and is the same price as the one on Yesterday's Tractor. Likewise the one at a third site looks the same and is about $15 more. Note that the third site says you might have to grind about 1/8 inch off the front of the transmission case for it to fit. So, it looks like everybody is carrying the same aftermarket part. Kind of like sheetmetal parts for classic cars these days bend, cut or trim to fit I guess.

 

[Orion231]

By the way, thanks for the bolt and bolt torque info as well as all the pictures..

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 11:35:57 10/13/20) So, it looks like everybody is carrying the same aftermarket part. Kind of like sheetmetal parts for classic cars these days bend, cut or trim to fit I guess.

Exactly - new OEM parts for any 70 year old tractor are essentially non-existent. The market is tiny, retail consumers are cheap, seller margins are paltry, and the best you can reasonably expect is a "close enough" copy that will work satisfactorily and can be made to fit with a little minor re-work.

TOH

 

[Dean]

If the website did not forewarn you that modification might be necessary, you were not notified. Notification after purchase is not notification.

Your 51 8N is considered a late 8n. 1952 was the last year.

Dean

 

[Orion231]

Well, you were right.. The catalog listing on Yesterdays Tractor parts pages do not show that modification might be necessary. It only mentions it on the invoice that came with the part. I am out of the 30 day warranty though and it may be a moot point anyway if I can't get anything better.... That is a problem when you order parts in advance and they don't get checked until later...

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

The FORD 8N was introduced in July, 1947 and last produced in July, 1952. A '51 is a later model; side mount, late steering box, new 20-A GEN, more. Get The ESSENTIAL MANUALS.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)