rear wheel falling off, repair ideas?

[cb in wisc]

I have a old Simplicity broadmoor, (1964) that I am having problems keeping the left rear wheel on. Over time it has worn the hole in the axle and it keeps shearing bolt that are in place to hold the wheel to the axle. I don't want to weld the hole shut on the axle and then have to redrill it out. However right now that seems to be the only way I can think of fix this situation. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated.

 

[MJMJ]

A picture would be a huge help.

 

[cb in wisc]

A picture would be a huge help.

I'll get to doing a picture tomorrow as my daughter needs my help yet this afternoon.

 

[Jim.ME]

I'll get to doing a picture tomorrow as my daughter needs my help yet this afternoon.

How bad is the axle hole in the wheel worn and how much has the axle itself worn. If those are sloppy it won't help the shear bolt last. Can you enlarge the existing shear bolt holes to accept the next size larger one, maybe metric if an SAE size now.

 

[Brown David]

I have a old Simplicity broadmoor, (1964) that I am having problems keeping the left rear wheel on. Over time it has worn the hole in the axle and it keeps shearing bolt that are in place to hold the wheel to the axle. I don't want to weld the hole shut on the axle and then have to redrill it out. However right now that seems to be the only way I can think of fix this situation. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated.

Drill the holes out to a size big enough to true them then use a correspondingly sized bolt.

As always, picture are helpful.

 

[T.R.K.]

Drilling one bolt size oversize sounds like a good idea, but I'm betting that even with an extra-long drill bit you still don't get a straight shot through the hole in your wheel hub.

Have you experimented with putting a grade 8 bolt in there? And if you can, tighten the nut (or nuts) tight enough that it crushes the wheel hub against the axle.

What is probably going on is that with wear in the hole, the bolt is twisting from one side of the hole to the other when you go from forward to reverse. That will eventually either wear through the bolt or work harden it so it breaks off.

 

[504]

I have a old Simplicity broadmoor, (1964) that I am having problems keeping the left rear wheel on. Over time it has worn the hole in the axle and it keeps shearing bolt that are in place to hold the wheel to the axle. I don't want to weld the hole shut on the axle and then have to redrill it out. However right now that seems to be the only way I can think of fix this situation. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciate Buy wheel studs long enough to stick through the hub and put nuts on the back to hold them tight. Ust lots of thread locker on the retapped hubs.Lug nut on the out side and I believe you will be fixed. If you do not have enough flat space for nuts on the back , forget I said anything

 

[cb in wisc]

I have a old Simplicity broadmoor, (1964) that I am having problems keeping the left rear wheel on. Over time it has worn the hole in the axle and it keeps shearing bolt that are in place to hold the wheel to the axle. I don't want to weld the hole shut on the axle and then have to redrill it out. However right now that seems to be the only way I can think of fix this situation. Any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated.

 

[cb in wisc]

I've included pictures of the actual axle shaft with the hole in it and the stub that goes over the axle, but with the holes welded shut that a bolt was welded in place that sheared off and the stub just slid off. I was planning on getting the holes drilled out in the stub shaft again and installing another bolt in place.

 

[DoubleO7]

The orangeish pic has me thoughly confused.

 

[Blackhole49]

The orangeish pic has me thoughly confused.

Me too.

 

[Blackhole49]

As Brown said, drilling out slightly larger sounds like a good solution. My concern is: how snug is the hub on the shaft (it looks pretty worn) without the bolt? If it has some wobble to it, a bigger bolt is still a short term fix and should be addressed along with hole. Then again, depending on use, a bigger bolt may just be permanent on a 1964.

 

[Mule Meat]

I take it that the rear axle and hub are designed somewhat like rear tine tillers. The hub slides over the axle and a pin or bolt goes through both to hold it in place.

If so..

From the photos. It looks as if the axle had worn. A bolt/pin was installed and welded flush to the hub (orange). Over time the pin sheared allowing the hub/wheel to come off.

Looking closely at the axle stub. It appears to me as if someone burnt through the hub and into the axle shaft when it was welded.

On to the digs.. With as much damage done. I honestly think drilling the hole in the axle large enough to clean it up would severely weaken the axle. If it were welded. The entire hole through the axle would need filled and redrilled. Be better to weld up the hole, rotate the axle 90 degrees and then drill it. The hole would need to be dead centered and straight.

If you just want it to work. You could bevel the end of the axle. Install the hub using a grade 8 bolt. Then weld the hub to the beveled end of the axle.