Spun ball bearing, worn shaft, Which Loctite?

[WeirdDeere]

I'm working on a Deere 80 PTO. I found that the bearing on the clutch drum has been spinning on the shaft, so now a new bearing will drop right on instead of a press fit.

I mic'd the shaft but now I can't remember the measurements. I'm thinking about trying Loctite, since this is one application the stuff is designed for, but there are so many different types out there that an internet search just gives me a headache. Even loctite documentation lists many different types.

The bearing is always in oil. The bearing is always spinning when the engine is running. The bearing also has to support the full power going through the PTO when engaged of course.

What loctite products would you use? Or other options? I'd be willing to buy a good shaft if the price was reasonable, but I think it's an 80/820/830 only shaft

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Thanks,
Brandon

 

[Steve@Advance]

Is this a working tractor? If so, the shaft could be turned down, press fit an oversize sleeve, then turn the sleeve to give about a .001" press inside the bearing.

If it's working days are over, the Locktite would probably work.

 

[Janicholson]

I would not use locktite on that because from just looking at it I see about .003 or more diametral wear. Were it mine I would find a bearing (from Motion Industries, or Kaman Bearing) that is a few thousandths smaller on the ID, with the same OD. Then I would have the shaft center ground to a light press fit for the new bearing. Plastic locktite stud and bearing mount is great, but not designed to be a shim. Jim

 

[JD Seller]

Contrary to what Janicholson posted I WOULD use Loctite. It is a common practice that is proven to work. Many new applications use Loctite so that future disassemble is easier. For your cylindrical parts I would use Loctite 641 with the Loctite primer. I have repaired PTO shaft bearings with it on tractors with a lot higher horsepower than a JD 80. My JD 4960 PTO has it used on it. That repair is over ten years old and that tractor used to be used on a tub grinder that pulled over 200 HP.

The Loctite 641 will fill clearances up to .008. IF the clearance is higher then use Loctite 680 that is rated for up to .015 clearances. Just clean thing well and follow the cure times an you will have a good repair that will be as good as new.

 

[NCWayne]

I've got to agree with JD Seller, a good grade of Loc-tite, applied and let cure properly, should work just fine. Depending on the clearance your dealing with, as JD Seller said, they make products that will tighten up parts with up to .020 with their 660 grade.

Another thing that may be possible is to peen the surface where the bearing rides with a center punch. I believe the shaft you've got is hardened, but if it's not, a good peen pattern around the bearing area, and an application of Loc-tite, and you should be good to go.

I've used the 680 many times in the rotation gear box (for the drill rod), on the rock drills I used to do so much work on, when they got too worn. I never had any issues with any of them.
Loc tite application guide

 

[rick1]

I work on a Asphalt plant with many many bearings my experience with that situation where a bearing is spinning on a shafts is pretty much doomed you can try loctiter and ping the shaft with a punch but I think your problem will come back to haunt you.but I would try what others have suggested you won't be out anything but your time.and who knows it might just work
RICK

 

[brutus49DC]

I'd look for some good used parts or have it built up if possible. Sometimes there is no replacement for metal.

 

[jimg.allentown]

This starts to sound like the old "mechanic in a can" discussion again.

Loctite is NOT designed to replace worn out or damaged parts. It is meant to be used as part of the design to reinforce a bond. As others say, it is not meant to be a shim.

There are a number of things working against Loctite. First is that it is running in oil. This will compromise the bond. Stress on the parts will also compromise the bond. Heat is another enemy. Actually, that is how Loctite bonds are released in many cases - by heating them up.

The machining and sleeving are so far the best options short of just replacing the damaged shaft. Cutting it down and using a bearing with a smaller ID is also a good option. After all, you DO want to return this machine to service as a RELIABLE piece of equipment don't you???

 

[dhermesc]

I tend to agree with Steve. Either/or is the way to go. Loctite will "kinda work" but definitely not something I would use on something that is going to be used. If all its going to do is roll around and look pretty its fine. If you intend to use it to brush hog, run a swather or a baler its time to get a machine shop involved or just find a replacement shaft in better shape (with luck this could be the easiest fix).

 

[jeffcat]

Front axle spindle of a tractor or a lawn mower. Like a slower rotation grain elevator, Hayloft loader. Just pin punch the shaft till you need to wack it pretty hard with a dead blow hammer and a socket. What YOU have, if it is just a little lose I would try to punch it but the others have said to go with surtface welding or such. Depends if you want to take a tractor apart again and AGAIN. Hint hint.

 

[RodinNS]

I'm of a mindset right now to suggest that If the part was staying relatively cool, apply 680 to it and see what happens.... provided that it is reasonably close to having an interference fit and the Loctite is just forming a bond. If it's 10 thou out and you expect it to carry load I think you're better off changing the shaft.
As others have mentioned, Loctite makes some incredible products.... but heat IS the release agent for most of them and if it got steadily over 150 deg I think it would weaken and fail on you.
If it's really loose I'd just replace the shaft. It can't be THAT uncommon?

Rod

 

[Texasmark1]

No locktite for that application for reasons stated.

 

[Mike M]

Brandon: I just read your want ad and it got me to thinking more ( dangerous I know ) If you can't find a good used one I think I have found where on some of those the shaft was the same but the drums were different. I think I have changed out and reriveted a drum before.
Also some machine shops can spray weld up shafts and remachine them this is a proven method. I bet it may not be worn too bad and a new bearing with the special locktite made for worn parts will fix you up. Some peening of the shaft won't hurt either or get it knurled same thing just better.

 

[WeirdDeere]

Yeah I was thinking about the different or same shafts too. I wish that the parts books gave the numbers for the shaft and the drum separate. I would think it'd be the same as some of the other tractors, just wish I KNEW. I'd be willing to swap the drum/rivet onto the new shaft

Brandon