Strange cranking problem

rrman61

Well-known Member
I replaced my LS k-5055 starter,the battery is new and 850 cca’s.problem is very slow cranking.I disconnected all lines to and from the front gear driven hydraulic pump.still the same.I bought this tractor used and it always was a little slow cranking but it’s getting worse.there’s only the clutch and transmission idler gears being turned while cranking now.i will try to temporarily over adjust the second stage clutch to be sure it absolutely disengages.while depressing the clutch.if that doesn’t work idk what it could be.this engine has no decompression lever.it does have an external by-pass valve that screws into the block I assume for the oil by-pass.any ideas.I’m not a mechanic but have been dealing with all kinds of farm/industrial equipment for a long time and have never had this problem
 
Start with the easiest first, clean/wire brush shiny all battery and starter connections, it only takes one corroded to knock down your amps. BTDT
I did that plus added an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts.then hooked jumper cables directly to the frame and starter.no change.it’s something dragging down on the starter(resistance some where)
 
I did that plus added an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts.then hooked jumper cables directly to the frame and starter.no change.it’s something dragging down on the starter(resistance some where)
It’s a 55 hp Mitsubishi Diesel engine,also found in forklifts
 
I did that plus added an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts.then hooked jumper cables directly to the frame and starter.no change.it’s something dragging down on the starter(resistance some where)

I did that plus added an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts.then hooked jumper cables directly to the frame and starter.no change.it’s something dragging down on the starter(resistance some where)
Or a bad connection or a broke wire. I can't tell you how many different locations in my tractors wiring have caused similar slow starts.
 
I did that plus added an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts.then hooked jumper cables directly to the frame and starter.no change.it’s something dragging down on the starter(resistance some where)
Please also replace the positive cable also. Have had to replace main hot and ground cables numerous times over the years. Check for damaged wiring from rodents under the dash
 
I know a man who bought a new battery that was bad.
He went back and got a second battery, it was bad too.
The third battery was good.

Don't ASSUME that all new batteries are good.
Not everyone agrees with me, but
the best money I've spent was buying a good battery tester that measures cranking amps. '
My tester can measure the cranking voltage too.

Take starter apart and look for scratches on the armature. That will indicate bad starter bearings.
Also look at the brushes.
 

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I know a man who bought a new battery that was bad.
He went back and got a second battery, it was bad too.
The third battery was good.

Don't ASSUME that all new batteries are good.
Not everyone agrees with me, but
the best money I've spent was buying a good battery tester that measures cranking amps. '

Take starter apart and look for scratches on the armature. That will indicate bad starter bearings.
Also look at the brushes.
X2 on worn starter bushings causing drag or worn down brushes or other internal starter issues. This isn't a BIG engine that needs a huge battery and massive cables to crank successfully. Of course, those things certainly don't hurt!
 
I know a man who bought a new battery that was bad.
He went back and got a second battery, it was bad too.
The third battery was good.

Don't ASSUME that all new batteries are good.
Not everyone agrees with me, but
the best money I've spent was buying a good battery tester that measures cranking amps. '
My tester can measure the cranking voltage too.

Take starter apart and look for scratches on the armature. That will indicate bad starter bearings.
Also look at the brushes.
George why would suspect bad bearings in an item you just replaced? Read the first line again.
 
From reading these forums for many years I know that very often freshly cleaned terminals need cleaning. As Jim posted you need to do a voltage drop test.
 
George why would suspect bad bearings in an item you just replaced? Read the first line again.
I've learned, many times, just because something is new doesn't mean it is good.
Read my example of a friend good 2 NEW BAD batteries before he got a good one.

I've seen new bad electric motors. Rare but it does happen.

I never assume that all new things are good.

Edited
Paint is not a conductor of electricity. Remove the paint on the starter where the bolts attach to the starter to make a good ground.
 
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George why would suspect bad bearings in an item you just replaced? Read the first line again.


I’m old enough to encounter such a thing many times now. And it’s gotten a lot worse the past 6 years.

Started combining a couple years ago, alternator locked up on the combine. You know that panic feeling with 95% of harvest left to go and something breaks already… well an alternator is easy, shouldn’t be a problem. Right?

I put my hands on 5 alternators, and had 3 fully installed before I got one that fit and worked. Over a weekend so it took 3 days.

For a 2 hour job normally including the drive to get parts.

Wrong new one did not fit, proper new one made clinking sounds when I spun it on the suppliers bench, wrong used one (was ready to try anything), finally got one that was right and operational a day after that.

Seriously. It was a mess, so was I.

Paul
 
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