stud finder for ceramic tile

ratface

Member
I turn 65 this year and almost fell in the tub while showering, put some sticky traction bars down but I also want to add a grab bar on the wall. I have read a lot of online reviews for stud finders but most say they cannot penetrate ceramic tile, but every so often someone will say it worked for them. What I am interested in is if anyone owns a stud finder that they have been able to see thru ceramic tile with?
 
In our shower, the tile does not go all the way to the ceiling, so I located the studs there, and plumbed down.

Maybe you are that lucky?
 
Tile goes all the way up. I could drive a finishing nail thru the bottom grout line but I seem to remember a small lip on the tub in which case I would be driving a nail into cast iron.
 
Is the back side of the wall accessible? Locate the studs there and transfer measurements to the bathroom side. Or with a strong enough magnet you can locate the drywall screws under the tile.

This post was edited by Scott 730 on 10/29/2023 at 07:07 pm.
 
Often - if not usually, there is an access panel to get at the plumbing of the shower.
Maybe in a closet?
I have had to open that and locate the studs from from underneath.
 
Yes there is lip on the tub behind the tile. As mentioned you should have access to the plumbing end of the tub. If you look inside that, the backside of the tub is probably not solid. you should be able to see the studs from there. If you do not have an access panel, they are easy to put in.


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That's what I did the last time I had to do one of these bars. Never did get out the stud finder, so I can't comment on whether or not it works. Another small tip for the original poster--when you go to actually drill the holes, put a piece of masking tape over where you plan on drilling. It will catch the drill point and keep it from wandering, plus hold any tiny splinters in place when you drill, and assuming you use a sharpie or similar to mark your start point you can still see it through the tape. In critical work, I try to use a new bit--they're cheap enough--and the downsides of fixing a bad hole are expensive enough--that it's worth the cost. The bits I used last time are shown below, though there's plenty of other choices and places to get them--this just shows the basic style.
tile bits
 
I just installed a grab bar in a bathroom using 5 fingered Molly bolts. The bar had 3 1/4 inch holes in each end. The bolts required 3/8 drilled hole. I avoided finding studs for placement, but was into plaster then lath construction about 1 inch thickness. The molly bolts were selected to have shanks that allowed the fingers to expand behind the lath. It is as solid as can be, I would, and do, trust it. most ceramic tile is mounted on cement board or other rigid backing. Jim
the idea
 
I put the tiles in and they are on Durock. Driving a nail thru the top grout lines and molly bolts are good ideas. The other side of the wall is 20 feet in the air in a hallway above stairs so not really an option. I have an access panel for the bottom drain of the tub but the tub blocks my view of the wall.
 
Saw the term 'cow magnet' in an earlier post so went to Amazon to see if there was a description. There were several versions to buy but I wanted to know how they work? Do they stay in the cow its whole life or are they passed thru their system and out in cow patties along with whatever ferrous stuff has attached itself to them?
 
(reply to post at 18:06:56 11/02/23)

Get a rare earth magnet. I use them all the time to hang stuff inside a steel shipping container.

I use round ones that can lift 30 pounds and 60 pounds.
Only a quarter inch thick and size of a nickel for the 30# and half dollar for the 60#.
I use the ones with counter sunk center hole.
Just slide it around on the wall in palm of hand until you find a screw head.
 

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