Tell me about the 340u

[Mac AR]

Howdy, I've been gone for awhile and now I'm back with a few questions. I'm looking at a 340u locally, to take over some of the tasks that are too big for the Cub and too light (or maybe too tight) for the 300. Basically brush hogging, raking hay, and light tillage. Maybe put a loader on it later. It is supposedly one owner, and is in pretty darn good original shape. Price is $3000, negotiable.

Here's what I know about it:

Gas engine
Straight 5 speed transmission, and no t/a; not sure if it's a shuttle
Can't tell if it has PS
1 hyd valve on the dash, and one down by the shifter
LPTO
Fast hitch w/ 3pt conversion arms
Like new rubber all the way around
Missing one round hood emblem; otherwise complete.

I haven't seen it in person, but I'm going tomorrow morning to run it for a bit and will know more then. But, providing it starts/runs well with no blow-by or other issues, is the price somewhat right?

I'm also looking at a Super C, but I think the 340 might suit me better for what I want to do. Any suggestions and comments are welcome!

Thanks,

Mac

 

[Roger Tomfohrde]

In actuality a 340 U is smaller than a 300 by weight and size, about the same horse power.

 

[rustred]

well its too small for a loader, and the steering will not stand up to the loader. i have the diesel model. kinda neat little tractor.
probably over 1500.00 worth of rubber on it, so maybe worth it.

 

[AlinMO]

A 340 back half is based on the H, 300, 350, 460. Lot better than a C. If in good shape, how can you go wrong for $3000? You can't buy anything for that money. Does it have the engine driven hydraulic pump or transmission driven? For loader work, hope it has power steering. It's a fairly modern tractor.

 

[Mac AR]

Well, I went and looked at the tractor yesterday. Seems to be in good shape all around. The gentleman was nice enough, and let me drive it around his yard to check it out. Here's what I found:

By the SN, it's a 1960
Runs well, goes into all gears, no odd noises and doesn't smoke.
The PTO spins all the time, no matter the lever position
Converted to 12v
The tires are nearly new, but a bit weather checked.
The headlights don't work
Park lock froze up
A couple of the gauges are out (oil pressure is excellent and it does charge)
Only 1 hyd valve for the fast hitch, which has 3pt prongs and top link bracket.
Throttle slips back down to idle unless it's held open

Over all, it's not a bad tractor. When I pointed out the few minor things, he said to make him an offer; so I did. $2500 bought it, and I go to get it Thursday afternoon. Ordered a manual for it today, and going to the parts store to get oil/filter to do a change. Probably won't end up under a loader, so just limited to some bush-hogging, raking hay, and light tillage as I said.

There are just a couple things I'd like to know, though:

How to adjust the PTO brake band? I know how to on the 300, but the 340 didn't look like it had the adjusting bolts. Where are they?

How hard would it be to plumb another remote in to run the cylinder on my bushhog? Would it just be easier to put connectors on the existing cylinder, block it up to the height I want, and then swap the hoses?

Is there a friction disk or something in the throttle lever? How do you get it to stay put?

Anyhow, thanks for the comments. Look forward to more!

Mac

 

[Mac AR]

(quoted from post at 09:04:41 05/19/21)... Does it have the engine driven hydraulic pump or transmission driven? For loader work, hope it has power steering...

Al, it doesn't have power steering, so loader work is pretty much out now. As to the pump, I assume it's engine driven as it appears to have a pump behind the distributor like my 300 does.

Mac

 

[Janicholson]

Valves can be stacked to ad remotes. There is a friction disk/spring in the dash. Are you sure the hydraulic pump is driving the distributor? they are
usually below the distributor drive. The PTO is probably a clutch pack type, not band. They do not have external adjustment. See if the shaft turns
easily by hand when not running. Jim
Diagram

 

[Mac AR]

Hello Jim, good to hear from you!

As to the hyd pump, I'm honestly not sure. I didn't really look that hard at it, so I'm sure you're correct in it being below it. My memory certainly isn't what it was.

For the remote, here's what I'm thinking of doing. I'll remove the hoses from the FH cylinder, put female quick couplings on them, and have two short hoses made up for the cylinder with male ends. When I want to use the FH, I can connect them. When I want to use a remote cylinder, I'll lock the FH up, and connect my hoses to those coming off the main hyd. Am I going in the right direction or would I be better off adding a remote valve? I can't envision a scenario when I'd need both the lift and the remote.

I'll test the PTO tomorrow afternoon and get back to you. Are you saying that there really isn't an adjustment? What am I looking at as far as fixing? I'll peruse your diagram directly and hopefully get a better idea.

My next project is to locate a FH drawbar, as my bush-hog is a pull type unit and that's going to be the primary use of this unit. The 300 is just too big for some of the places that I need to mow. Any suggestions on where to find one?

Thanks,

Mac

 

[Janicholson]

Bates Equipment in Bourbon Indiana is a likely source for a valve. The cylinder may leak down over time with the hydraulic
shut off to it. If the tractor has an actual drawbar to attach the mower to all is well there. A two way hydraulic valve
that can switch between uses would also work Surplus Center is a source there. The PTO was either a clutch type or a band
type (called a Planitary type) the clutch type is rebuildable, but has no external adjustment like the band style. Jim

 

[Mac AR]

Here's an update for y'all. I managed to get the tractor home yesterday afternoon, and looked into a couple of the issues. Got the brakes adjusted, and the park lock un-seized. The PTO would shut off if I pushed the lever down with my foot, and so I adjusted the linkage out a bit and now it'll shut off just fine. I've no idea if it will slip now, as I didn't have a chance to hook my bush-hog up.

So far the only other issue to arise is a small leak in the FH cylinder. Not a large one, so I'm not too concerned about it right now. Still got to locate a FH drawbar, but I've got some feelers out. Thanks for all the help.

Mac

 

[Mac AR]

Oops! Forgot the pictures!

Not a bad looking tractor, I think. It's due a set of fronts in the future but the rears will last a while. Sending off for the gas cap today as well.

Mac[/img:d6083f1ce6]

 

[AlinMO]

Nice looking tractor. Hard to believe it's 61 years old!

 

[Mac AR]

It really is isn't it? The darn thing runs perfectly, but it needs a few gauges and some work done on the dash, the lights need re-wired, and a couple other minor things. I also discovered something else: I think it has a reverser on it, but the lever and linkage are missing. Also, the SN tag has a "W" stamped on it, which would indicate a reverser according to my research. I can't get the little lever to move by hand, but I wonder how I could test it... any thoughts?

Mac