Throttle problems

I sent my Tractor for a clutch replacement. They had it for months and when they gave it back the throttle wasn't working. It just idles roughly and eventually stalls out. After another month and 7 visits they sent someone out who hooked a throttle arm back up and told me I had bad diesel. It didn't make sense but I changed it anyway and put fuel conditioner in it. It still does the same thing and after thousands of dollars all I have is a tractor put back together wrong and a ruined business.
I started messing with the linkages but stopped because realistically I don't know where to start. From what I'm to understand it could be the governor or fuel injector as well.
It's a Tafe 45di which is basically a Massey 245.
I can pull both throttles and there's barely any rpm change. They are pulling the mechanism.
 
Maybe the mechinism In the govener is broken off and the throttle lever is pulling that and not effecting the engine because the mechanism in the govener is either broken or put together wrong
 
You will need to provide some pictures of the injection pump and where the throttle linkage hooks to it. I know nothing about the controls on that tractor, it is certainly unusual when you say you pull “both” throttles. Never heard of a machine with two throttles unless it was set up like a backhoe with two operating control areas. Basically the throttle should pull a lever on the injection pump to its maximum rotation and hold it there. Then inside the pump the governor control the speed of the engine by telling the pump to inject more fuel to maintain the rpm against the load on the engine. Basically by unhooking the linkage one should be able to determine how far the control on the pump is being turned and if it actually moves it the maximum amount.
 
Have you changed out the fuel filter(s)?

It sure sounds like they messed up the throttle linkage when they split the tractor. A competent shop shouldn't have taken several months to replace a clutch, nor should they have returned your tractor non-running with a disconnected throttle. I assume the engine was running fine when the clutch blew.
 
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Twice now, I've seen where the cable that shuts the engine off when you pull the knob, was in the wrong position in the lever on the injector pump. When you push the knob in, it would move the lever down far enough for the engine to start and run, but it wouldn't rev up.
 
If the engine has the MICO/BOSCH pump with the RSV governor MAKE SURE the STOP lever is fully forward, or the governor will not work right, and will usually run rough/surge when not fully forward in the run position.
 
Twice now, I've seen where the cable that shuts the engine off when you pull the knob, was in the wrong position in the lever on the injector pump. When you push the knob in, it would move the lever down far enough for the engine to start and run, but it wouldn't rev up.
I once bought a David Brown at auction with that problem. I took a chance and it took just ten minutes to figure it out and swap it around.
 
I once bought a David Brown at auction with that problem. I took a chance and it took just ten minutes to figure it out and swap it around.
AC and DB diesels are bass ackwards on the fuel stop, out is run and in is stop and all other makes I've ever worked on were in for run and out for stop.
 
I sent my Tractor for a clutch replacement. They had it for months and when they gave it back the throttle wasn't working. It just idles roughly and eventually stalls out. After another month and 7 visits they sent someone out who hooked a throttle arm back up and told me I had bad diesel. It didn't make sense but I changed it anyway and put fuel conditioner in it. It still does the same thing and after thousands of dollars all I have is a tractor put back together wrong and a ruined business.
I started messing with the linkages but stopped because realistically I don't know where to start. From what I'm to understand it could be the governor or fuel injector as well.
It's a Tafe 45di which is basically a Massey 245.
I can pull both throttles and there's barely any rpm change. They are pulling the mechanism.
Several years back I watched a YouTube on a tafe/MF fix for a stuck in gear situation, and he had to take loose the fuel throttle & linkage to get the top of transmission with gear handles off. Sounds like that shop was just indifferent and just focused solely on turning it out of the shop....
 
Twice now, I've seen where the cable that shuts the engine off when you pull the knob, was in the wrong position in the lever on the injector pump. When you push the knob in, it would move the lever down far enough for the engine to start and run, but it wouldn't rev up.
It's funny you say that. It springs back in and it never did that before. I figured maybe they adjusted it.
 
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Have you changed out the fuel filter(s)?

It sure sounds like they messed up the throttle linkage when they split the tractor. A competent shop shouldn't have taken several months to replace a clutch, nor should they have returned your tractor non-running with a disconnected throttle. I assume the engine was running fine when the clutch blew.
It ran perfect. I went out to check the filters and the first thing I did was break a bleed screw off. Thats why i sent it there so i didnt have to break everything haha. The clutch didn't even technically blow. The pressure plate stuck is why it originally went there.
 
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You will need to provide some pictures of the injection pump and where the throttle linkage hooks to it. I know nothing about the controls on that tractor, it is certainly unusual when you say you pull “both” throttles. Never heard of a machine with two throttles unless it was set up like a backhoe with two operating control areas. Basically the throttle should pull a lever on the injection pump to its maximum rotation and hold it there. Then inside the pump the governor control the speed of the engine by telling the pump to inject more fuel to maintain the rpm against the load on the engine. Basically by unhooking the linkage one should be able to determine how far the control on the pump is being turned and if it actually moves it the maximum amount.
 
I just meant the hand and foot throttle. I'm trying to put a picture up but its a MiCO Inline with mechanical governor.
 

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If the engine has the MICO/BOSCH pump with the RSV governor MAKE SURE the STOP lever is fully forward, or the governor will not work right, and will usually run rough/surge when not fully forward in the run position.
I was hopeful but i can't get it to move anymore forward
 
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