Tractor keeps running with key off

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Just wired up my 1 wire mini on the Oliver 77...Wire from the alternator terminal goes to negative side of amp gauge...then positive side of amp gauge goes to the ignition on side of the ignition dial...the other wire from the positive side goes to the always hot side of the starter button....what did I do wrong?

 

[Jim.ME]

Just wired up my 1 wire mini on the Oliver 77...Wire from the alternator terminal goes to negative side of amp gauge...then positive side of amp gauge goes to the ignition on side of the ignition dial...the other wire from the positive side goes to the always hot side of the starter button....what did I do wrong?

It reads like you are putting alternator output to the ignition terminal which would prevent it from shutting off.

Battery power wire to one terminal of the ammeter (Always live). This terminal only gets this one wire.

On the second ammeter terminal you should have multiple wires (these will also always be live).
Wire to alternator output terminal
Power wire to the battery post of the ignition switch (not to the ignition terminal, that gets a wire to the coil)
Power wire to the start button

I am not saying + or - on the ammeter as I have seen too many not marked or marked wrong. If the ammeter reads backwards when started, just swap the wires to the opposite post from what they are currently on of the ammeter, after checking, with a voltmeter, that it is actually charging.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

It reads like you are putting alternator output to the ignition terminal which would prevent it from shutting off.

Battery power wire to one terminal of the ammeter (Always live). This terminal only gets this one wire.

On the second ammeter terminal you should have multiple wires (these will also always be live).
Wire to alternator output terminal
Power wire to the battery post of the ignition switch (not to the ignition terminal, that gets a wire to the coil)
Power wire to the start button

I am not saying + or - on the ammeter as I have seen too many not marked or marked wrong. If the ammeter reads backwards when started, just swap the wires to the opposite post from what they are currently on of the ammeter, after checking, with a voltmeter, that it is actually charging.

Okay thanks. I know it's charging. Problem is I have it hooked to the ignition post not battery. When the tractors off should I be reading 12 volts at the alternator post?

 

[Jim.ME]

Okay thanks. I know it's charging. Problem is I have it hooked to the ignition post not battery. When the tractors off should I be reading 12 volts at the alternator post?

The one wire (output post) on the alternator is live all the time. You should read the same, or almost the same, voltage at that alternator post as you read when checking battery voltage right on the battery posts, engine stopped or running.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

The one wire (output post) on the alternator is live all the time. You should read the same, or almost the same, voltage at that alternator post as you read when checking battery voltage right on the battery posts.

oh okay didn't know that....thanks. will get this fixed tomorrow lol

 

[used red MN]

When the tractors off should I be reading 12 volts at the alternator post?

This is true of about 99% of all alternators, check any car pickup semi-truck, bull dozer whatever. Not sure how much electronic knowledge you have but the alternator uses diodes to produce the charge current by converting alternating current (AC) to DC voltage that a battery system uses. The equivalent to a diode in a water system is a one way valve. The diodes only allow charge current out. However, when the engine is off since the diodes only flow current one direction the alternator will not have any draw on the battery so that output terminal can remain energized.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Just wired up my 1 wire mini on the Oliver 77...Wire from the alternator terminal goes to negative side of amp gauge...then positive side of amp gauge goes to the ignition on side of the ignition dial...the other wire from the positive side goes to the always hot side of the starter button....what did I do wrong?

The wire goodiing to the coil should hgo through the switch. To remove the power going to the coil

 

[T.R.K.]

That "ignition dial" is that your ignition switch? Is this like the wiring diagram for your tractor shows?
It sounds like your ammeter is in the circuit wrong:
-There shoud be a wire from the positive battery cable post on the starter to the ammeter,
(All common alternators that I am aware of are negative ground. If your battery positive post is connected to ground you will have to swap the cables.)
-Then a wire from the other side of the ammeter to the ignition switch.
-This wire goes to one contact on the ignition switch which should be hot at all times. It is usually marked B or battery, but may be hard to find on a 70 or 80 year old switch.
-There should be another terminal on the ignition switch that goes to the ignition coil. It should only be powered when the switch is 'on'.
(Other contacts on the ignition switch may power lights or other accessories.)
A one wire alternator connects to either end of the wire between the ammeter and the ignition switch. When wired this way, the ammeter is only telling you what is flowing to or from the battery, and not also measuring the current drawn by ignition or other accessories such as lights.

If it is wired this way, the ignition switch can then stop the engine without being back fed from the alternator.
It is also a good idea to put about a 30 amp fuse in the wire between the alternator and the ammeter.