Trailer wheel bearings

37 chief

Well-known Member
Adjusting trail wheel bearings I take the bearing nut down with channel lock pliers to just snug with no play, then see if the cotter pin hole is close. If not I loosen up to the next nut slot. I don't like going more tight to the next slot. What's your method if the cotter pin wouldn't go in? Stan
 
Loose is better than too tight.

If Ive installed new cups, I tighten the nut down tight to make sure the cups are seated in the hub. Then back of and adjust.
 
Adjusting trail wheel bearings I take the bearing nut down with channel lock pliers to just snug with no play, then see if the cotter pin hole is close. If not I loosen up to the next nut slot. I don't like going more tight to the next slot. What's your method if the cotter pin wouldn't go in? Stan
You are correct, you want a TINY amount of play vs. the "preload" that some folks figure is needed.

Differential ring and pinion bearings and differential side bearings need to be preloaded, MOST other common tapered roller bearing applications, from wheel bearings to transmission shaft bearings NEED a small amount (typically one to three thousandths) of ENDPLAY.
 
I bring up tight then loosen till they will just spin freely without wiggle. I like oil bearings seldom pack wheel bearings anymore most get some grease then some gear oil in the cap to keep it soft works well without a mess. I use a socke if I have one that fits instead of pliers or channel locks. I hate rounded corners from them.
 
Thighen to 25 foot - pounds ,spin drum forward and backwards . Back off lossen . Rethighen to 12 foot-pounds turn idrum forward and backwards again , install new cotter pin into slot .if cotter pin doesn’t go ,back of till slots in nut match hole in spindle , it does ,install new cotter pin
 
Adjusting trail wheel bearings I take the bearing nut down with channel lock pliers to just snug with no play, then see if the cotter pin hole is close. If not I loosen up to the next nut slot. I don't like going more tight to the next slot. What's your method if the cotter pin wouldn't go in? Stan
same as you
 
Thighen to 25 foot - pounds ,spin drum forward and backwards . Back off lossen . Rethighen to 12 foot-pounds turn idrum forward and backwards again , install new cotter pin into slot .if cotter pin doesn’t go ,back of till slots in nut match hole in spindle , it does ,install new cotter pin
same here
 
I bring up tight then loosen till they will just spin freely without wiggle. I like oil bearings seldom pack wheel bearings anymore most get some grease then some gear oil in the cap to keep it soft works well without a mess. I use a socke if I have one that fits instead of pliers or channel locks. I hate rounded corners from them.
I use channel lock because I can get better feel tightening the nut, it's never tight enough to damage the nut. Stan
 
I usually use Channel Lock pliers myself on light trailers. Semi tractors and trailers I have dedicated sockets for and use appropriate tightening procedures. I'll replace nuts if found galled, or distorted from prior attention. Always use new cotter pins and drive the caps on with a driver for the purpose.
 
Thighen to 25 foot - pounds ,spin drum forward and backwards . Back off lossen . Rethighen to 12 foot-pounds turn idrum forward and backwards again , install new cotter pin into slot .if cotter pin doesn’t go ,back of till slots in nut match hole in spindle , it does ,install new cotter pin
Timken says one to five thousandths of ENDPLAY.


ENDPLAY @ 5:50.
 
If I am putting in new bearings, I tighten to the point that it stops spinning when spun with one hand in about 1/2 revolution. then whack the hub/drum with a plastic hammer several times around the circumference. This assures seated bearings. then loosen until there is just a shade of preload, near none. On used bearings, no whacking is needed. Jim
 
I usually use Channel Lock pliers myself on light trailers. Semi tractors and trailers I have dedicated sockets for and use appropriate tightening procedures. I'll replace nuts if found galled, or distorted from prior attention. Always use new cotter pins and drive the caps on with a driver for the purpose.

Timken says one to five thousandths of ENDPLAY.


ENDPLAY @ 5:50.
Good video .
Question, is a DIY er going to have a magnet base dial indicator to measure shaft end play .001 to .005 thousandths ? Or know how to use it to get correct end play .
 
Good video .
Question, is a DIY er going to have a magnet base dial indicator to measure shaft end play .001 to .005 thousandths ? Or know how to use it to get correct end play .
The "takeaway" on this is that one of the oldest and largest makers of tapered roller axle bearings says they need to be set up with a very small amount of play vs. being preloaded. How you get to that point is on you.
 
Good video .
Question, is a DIY er going to have a magnet base dial indicator to measure shaft end play .001 to .005 thousandths ? Or know how to use it to get correct end play .
I have a couple of them actually; any competent mechanic should have at least one. They also serve well to measure runout, (warp) of brake rotors, or brake drums to ascertain if machining is necessary.
 
The "takeaway" on this is that one of the oldest and largest makers of tapered roller axle bearings says they need to be set up with a very small amount of play vs. being preloaded. How you get to that point is on you.
i generally run my bearings on the Class 8's at around .0015ish endplay. So, yes you are correct. Personally I feel that 5 thou is a bit loose, but that's just my personal preference. 2 thou would fine by me.

For those who don't have a mag base dial indicator.............simply determine the TPI on your spindle, and then figure out what a full turn of the nut will be, in terms of thousandths. You can further divide this by the number of slots on the lock nut. This will give you a very good idea what a turn, or a partial turn, of the nut represents.
 
Good video .
Question, is a DIY er going to have a magnet base dial indicator to measure shaft end play .001 to .005 thousandths ? Or know how to use it to get correct end play .
See my explanation in post #16. It's fairly easy to figure out. This should be pretty easy for DIY guys.
 
I have a couple of them actually; any competent mechanic should have at least one. They also serve well to measure runout, (warp) of brake rotors, or brake drums to ascertain if machining is necessary.
And in Today’s world an adequate set can be had for less than $50.
 
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