1940 farmall H trany whine after rebuild

[Ethan05]

Hello. I just went through my transmission on my 1940 farmall H. I replaced worn bearing, and changed out some of the sliding gears with better used ones. Got it running again, but I’m getting a whining noise when driving and when it’s sitting still with the clutch out in neutral, seems like maybe it’s coming from front of the trany housing. Would that just be the used replacement gears not worn to the original gears. Will driving it hurt anything? Thank.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Ethan, welcome to YT! You say “bearing” as in “one” which one? Or maybe you mistyped that. Is the belly pump back in the tractor, do you have at least a couple quarts of fluid in it? That can cause a whine. What gears did you change? The very front gear (what I refer to as the constant runner) is the only one that is engaged in neutral. It is always driving the lower shaft. If you refer to numbers in this link it would probably be helpful. CNHI Farmall H trans diagram What kind of condition was the pilot bearing #38 in that sets on the front of the upper transmission shaft?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

With the clutch out , the only bearing turning is the pilot bearing.

 

[DaveBN]

USed red is referring to the oil slinger gear which is often nearly gone so you may have not noticed it was missing. I use heaver oil in my old tractor transmissions which helps quiet them. 85W-135 if I remember correctly. Some whining noise while moving is normal but should be quiet when idling in neutral. Do you know how to use a big screw driver or wooden dowel pressed against your ear to locate noises?
Dave

 

[casecollectorsc]

USed red is referring to the oil slinger gear which is often nearly gone so you may have not noticed it was missing. I use heaver oil in my old tractor transmissions which helps quiet them. 85W-135 if I remember correctly. Some whining noise while moving is normal but should be quiet when idling in neutral. Do you know how to use a big screw driver or wooden dowel pressed against your ear to locate noises?
Dave

Changing gears and bearings changes bearing and gear clearance. May have to add a shim under the bearing cap to get rid of the whine. Cleaning and sealing a Case tractor transmission I found a shim in the parts cleaner after all together...sure enough it has a whine in 2nd gear that wasn't there before. Luckily it is on a 47 model tractor and not a newer more frequently used tractor.

 

[Goose]

Gears, especially used ones, will whine if they aren't 'worn in' to each other. I ecpenience the same thing on one of my Hs.

 

[used red MN]

USed red is referring to the oil slinger gear which is often nearly gone so you may have not noticed it was missing. I use heaver oil in my old tractor transmissions which helps quiet them. 85W-135 if I remember correctly. Some whining noise while moving is normal but should be quiet when idling in neutral. Do you know how to use a big screw driver or wooden dowel pressed against your ear to locate noises?
Dave

@DaveBN Just FYI to avoid confusion for the OP. An H does not utilize the “oil slinger” as the A - C transmissions do. As I stated the lower shaft is always driven by the front gear. In the 5 speed the big front gear on the lower shaft that is driven by the gear on the input shaft is always dipping through the gear oil to near the bottom of the case. That gear is always throwing lube around in there any time the clutch is let out. I will be back later to explain this more. There is quite a bit of difference between the 5 speed trans in the H and up tractors, as opposed to the 4 speed of the A-C.
Editing to add: In those smaller tractors the pinion gear is on the lower shaft. The upper shaft is turned by the input shaft from the clutch. The power travels from the top shaft down through a selected gear to drive the tractor. If the tractor is in neutral and not moving and your foot is off the clutch the top shaft is spinning but nothing that is down in the oil is spinning. This is why the “oiler” gear 42 in the link was added. CNHI Farmall C trans parts diag It runs on a bushing on the lower shaft so it spins down in the oil to sling it up on everything like the top shaft.
On an H or larger with the 5 speed the pinion is on the rear of the back half of the upper “main” shaft. In gears 1-4 power comes in the input shaft drops down to the lower shaft which is always turning when the input shaft is turned by the clutch. Then a gear is slid on the top shaft to engage to the bottom shaft and bring rotation up to the main shaft to drive the pinion that turn the differential of the rear end. In 5th gear the power is just run directly from the input shaft to the main shaft by way of a locking teeth inside of the front side of 4th gear. (4th/5th slider) In 5th basically the only thing the bottom shaft does is come along for the ride and the large front gear dips in the lube and slings it up on everything. You have to refer to the trans diagram in the H catalog I linked above. Kind of stole his thread, hope he comes back.
To you Ethan, I agree with Casecollector and Goose. Used gears can be noisy.

 

[Texasmark]

Hello. I just went through my transmission on my 1940 farmall H. I replaced worn bearing, and changed out some of the sliding gears with better used ones. Got it running again, but I’m getting a whining noise when driving and when it’s sitting still with the clutch out in neutral, seems like maybe it’s coming from front of the trany housing. Would that just be the used replacement gears not worn to the original gears. Will driving it hurt anything? Thank.

I'd say you nailed it with the replacement getting worn in to its new environment. Being used they have their own wear patterns that have to be worn in to the new environment. I wouldn't worry about it but would change my tranny fluid frequently to drain off any metallic shavings, or put some magnets on the bottom of your tranny case to trap the shavings.

 

[Janicholson]

With the clutch out , the only bearing turning is the pilot bearing.

With the clutch out , the only bearing turning is the pilot bearing.

With respect, the H transmission constant mesh gears turn the countershaft at all times the clutch is turning the input shaft. Jim

 

[Janicholson]

USed red is referring to the oil slinger gear which is often nearly gone so you may have not noticed it was missing. I use heaver oil in my old tractor transmissions which helps quiet them. 85W-135 if I remember correctly. Some whining noise while moving is normal but should be quiet when idling in neutral. Do you know how to use a big screw driver or wooden dowel pressed against your ear to locate noises?
Dave

With respect. The H has no oil slinger gear it is totally different than the ABC series transmissions. Jim

 

[Fritz Maurer]

With respect, the H transmission constant mesh gears turn the countershaft at all times the clutch is turning the input shaft. Jim

I said with the clutch “out” . That’s why they call it a throw-OUT bearing.

 

[used red MN]

I said with the clutch “out” . That’s why they call it a throw-OUT bearing.

Fritz, with respect..! I follow your interpretation of that term but I am going to say it is outdated. I would suggest for the purpose of these forums that you shy away from using the term “out” to refer to a clutch that is “disengaged” or not being driven by the engine. I am almost certain if our new fellow member comes back and replies he will tell you that what he meant was the clutch pedal was not being acted upon by his foot or by technical terms, engaged. Almost 98% of folks that post here would interpret a clutch described as ”out” as I described it in the previous sentence. Generally “in and out” as posted here is a description of the action of the foot on the pedal, pedal is “pushed in” or the pedal is “out.” To back up this suggestion, manuals are written using “technical writing” so general terms there that refer to the operating purpose of a clutch are as I wrote above “engaged or disengaged” Show me a manual that says “in or out” in these terms and it will probably have been written before 1930.

 

[Janicholson]

Fritz, with respect..! I follow your interpretation of that term but I am going to say it is outdated. I would suggest for the purpose of these forums that you shy away from using the term “out” to refer to a clutch that is “disengaged” or not being driven by the engine. I am almost certain if our new fellow member comes back and replies he will tell you that what he meant was the clutch pedal was not being acted upon by his foot or by technical terms, engaged. Almost 98% of folks that post here would interpret a clutch described as ”out” as I described it in the previous sentence. Generally “in and out” as posted here is a description of the action of the foot on the pedal, pedal is “pushed in” or the pedal is “out.” To back up this suggestion, manuals are written using “technical writing” so general terms there that refer to the operating purpose of a clutch are as I wrote above “engaged or disengaged” Show me a manual that says “in or out” in these terms and it will probably have been written before 1930.

Agree. Just the way we learned how to say it. All good. I do believe In is more commonly referring to disengaged. those lever action clutches force different terminology yet. Jim