5000 SOS is a no go

Has anybody ever made a rolling support or cradle for the rear end when you split a tractor? There is a nice 4 bolt flange under there to bolt.. let's see your pics of what You've custom made
The last 5000 I split I was amazed that the rear end just "hung there" and didn't want to drop forward or backward. I'm thinking it was brake drag that kept it stable. Nonetheless, I kept a floor jack underneath it for safety sake.
 
The last 5000 I split I was amazed that the rear end just "hung there" and didn't want to drop forward or backward. I'm thinking it was brake drag that kept it stable. Nonetheless, I kept a floor jack underneath it for safety sake.
That's exactly what happened. With the floorboard and the brake pedal return springs removed, the weight of the pedals was enough to partially apply the brakes.
 
I have an old industrial cart that worked for when I separated the transmission from the rear on my 860.
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Today is the day here at Nash Ranch.... The tractor is split. It seems there has been a little critter action inside the bell housing. I wonder how they got in there
 

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The oil pump looks good Bern. That bearing right behind the oil pump is good. See the pics
 

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It's all disconnected from the tractor now .. Sitting on a cart i have...i need to get it off the ground before i tear into it
 

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I'm also concerned about the blueness of this pto shaft and spline connection to that drive gear. Could that be stripped out in there and noticeable under load but not just sitting there idle? It is a little loose and wobbly feeling
 

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It's all disconnected from the tractor now .. Sitting on a cart i have...i need to get it off the ground before i tear into it
You are doing good work. I used a wire to keep all the pieces in order as I disassembled mine. Somewhere I have a picture of the internals spread out on the bench, but I haven't been able to locate it. There's quite a few pieces in there...
 
I'm also concerned about the blueness of this pto shaft and spline connection to that drive gear. Could that be stripped out in there and noticeable under load but not just sitting there idle? It is a little loose and wobbly feeling
You said you heard grinding noises, right? I saw that when you posted that picture earlier. I'd say there's an issue...
 
Yep sure did hear something grinding. I think I'm gonna put a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold it and pry lightly on the gear and see if they skip. Right now if i grab and turn the main shaft everything turns normally
 
That blue looks like it is from something getting too hot. Also, in your picture named 20240412_175032.jpg, it looks like the gear teeth on that upper gear are worn.
 
The blueing is most likely factory heat treating of the splines. If they were stripped out you'd have no PTO
I'm also concerned about the blueness of this pto shaft and spline connection to that drive gear. Could that be stripped out in there and noticeable under load but not just sitting there idle? It is a little loose and wobbly feeling
or hydraulics.
 
Yep sure did hear something grinding. I think I'm gonna put a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold it and pry lightly on the gear and see if they skip. Right now if i grab and turn the main shaft everything turns normally
Note: i locked up shaft with a pipe wrench and pryed lightly on the gear teeth.. they DID NOT rotate separately.. still looks fishy to me
 
Question Bern.. When i start tearing into this SOS from the rear. Do i need to have access to the control valve on the bottom?? It makes a difference as to what i build to raise this tranny of the ground to work on it. Thanks for any input
 
Question Bern.. When i start tearing into this SOS from the rear. Do i need to have access to the control valve on the bottom?? It makes a difference as to what i build to raise this tranny of the ground to work on it. Thanks for any input
If you already have the control valve off, then nothing needs to come out the bottom. Being able to stand the tranny on its nose is handy for checking end play. While it's not mandatory, I feel it makes the measurements more accurate.

Pics below show how I worked on Tim's 5000 SOS. I didn't build a stand, I just suspended it with an overhead hoist.
 

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If you already have the control valve off, then nothing needs to come out the bottom. Being able to stand the tranny on its nose is handy for checking end play. While it's not mandatory, I feel it makes the measurements more accurate.

Pics below show how I worked on Tim's 5000 SOS. I didn't build a stand, I just suspended it with an overhead hoist.
I dug through some more pics of my project on Tim's transmission. As you can see, he had a major internal leak because of a bearing failure.
 

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Thanks for the shop pics Bern. What do you think about a broken ring on the "C" Sun Gear? Everything else looks good so far. About ready to pull the manifold off
 

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