8N not getting gas due to sediment bowl / carb

[tractordust]

I needed to replace the 20+ year old radiator on me 8N.

I got it and shroud back on and now tractor isn't getting gas.

I don't know if taking the hood off shook up sediment in the gas tank or what.

Here is what the tractor does.

It starts, but stops due to lack of gas. The gas is on and choking doesn't matter.

I don't know what the piece is called. It is the metal tube that runs from carb to other side of tractor. When I drained the gas, I just loosened it on other side of tractor, opened gass at card, and it all drained. Then I tok that tube entirely off so it wasn't in my way getting hood off.

Once I got radiator on, I put the hood back on and put that tub back in place.

The tractor was starting but stopping due to lack of gas.

I closed the gas and took off and dumped out the sediment bowl. Then when I put it back and opened the gas, i guess I didn't tighten it enough to keep carb float closed. Because gas went into sediment bowl. But it was kind of a good thing because it flushed a TON of sediment out.

After that the tractor ran for maybe 25 minutes. I mowed a little to see how it did and if anythign lossened up. Then it just ated like it didn't have gas.

I am wondering if I just need to really clean the screen on my sediment bowl and just put it on and see if I can have gas flush out more sediment and keep repeating. Maybe even just open carb with bowl off and elt it flush out some. But no sediment really has come out since that first push. I also may have the sediment bowl too loose because I looked and it filled up with gas again.

Any tips? Everything ran fine before taking the stuff off to ptu radiator on. And the tractor totally ran better than it has in a longgg time for 25-30 minutes. Maybe I just need to clean sediment bowl / screaan, then make sure it is tight enough gas doesn't come out? Maybe gas caused sediment to float up and clogsomething...

Thanks.

This post was edited by tractordust on 08/02/2023 at 06:58 pm.

 

[tractordust]

Update..

I took off the sediment bowl and cleaned it out real well.

I held a funnel and can under carb and oepened it and let some gas come out.

The screen on top of the sediment bowl has a small square cut out. So I lined up that cut out with the lower hanging hole on bottom of carb.

I turned on gas and is still clowed into sediment bowl. Correct me if I am wrong, but that should not happen, right?

tractor started and ran for 15 minutes no issue. Then when I went to park, I put foot on clutch and it just died.

 

[tractordust]

So the sediment bowl should fill up. Cool. I think maybe needle or something migth be sticking in carb. I'll tap it with a wrench or something in morning.

 

[Den N Ms]

tractordust ,Remove the plug in the bottom of the carburetor bowl and catch the gas in a pint jar.The flow of fuel should fill the jar in about 2 minutes.
Drain fuel tank,remove and clean sediment bowl,flush out tank and blow dry.Be sure all trash is removed.Reinstall the sediment bowl with pipe sealer on threads {Gasola} best,and tighten ,install fuel line,turn on fuel and start.

This post was edited by Den N Ms on 08/03/2023 at 04:02 am.

 

[Abbby]

If you have not yet make sure to remove and clean screen on inlet fitting into carb.

 

[HFJ]

a bit of clarification. how well you tighten the sediment bowl does not affect the float staying closed. it's just that failure to tighten completely produces the same symptom - both give the air somewhere to go when you open the fuel valve and gas tries to flow into the bowl. without that escape route, whichever one it is, the gas can't displace it, and so you don't see gas flow into the glass bowl until the float opens.

do what den described. don't guess your fuel flow, test it. my preference is to test for spark first, immediately after the tractor stops. if the spark will jump a quarter inch gap, move on to the fuel test. that way the spark test doesn't have stray gasoline in the neighborhood

the screen abbby posted is often overlooked.

yes, line up the square hole in the bowl screen with the inlet.

my N has the same problem, a rusty tank. but i have had mine off several times, and the only casualty has been a replacement sediment bowl's reserve pickup, which plugged instantly. a PO had installed a conventional inline fuel filter. some people recommend against them. it's a popular discussion topic. fuel flow has never been a problem for me. i have only cleaned my carb once in a dozen years, and only because i had it apart to replace a cracked venturi. YMMV.

one of these years, i [i:a409719ada]should[/i:a409719ada] get a new gas tank.

 

[Eman85]

If you drained the tank with the fuel line on a 70+yo tractor you probably clogged the screen inside the tank and or the tube for the fuel pickup. I'd empty the tank and remove the fuel valve and clean from the top down.

 

[Jim in LA]

My 49 is doing the same thing. Hood is off, lawnmower tank
and inline filter in place. Too dam hot to work on it right now 100-104 days and 90 degrees at 10 pm. Not drawing gas from tank and suspect Chinese made
elbow screen clogged or float needle sticking closed.

 

[tractordust]

You guys go from 0 to 60 too fast.

I just loosened the fuel line to see.if gas flowed out and traced it back


A lot of the suggestions were extremely excessive.

And no need to check spark of tractor starts.

Thanks.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 22:21:05 08/04/23)
And no need to check spark of tractor starts.

and yet, "it just died".

 

[BryGuy]

Pouring fuel into a jar and checking for 1/4 spark is going from 0-60 in about 5 minutes.
You can pull on the choke all you want but if don't have spark it wont do a lot good.

Humor us and check spark and let us know. If you do have a nice snap at 1/4 see if you can get it to die again and check your
spark right away.

 

[Eman85]

Did you do a fuel flow test by removing the plug on the bottom of the carburetor and seeing how long it took to fill a pint? Do you have good spark after it dies, tested with a spark tester jumping a 1/4" gap?

 

[lastcowboy32]

I'll go from zero to 100.

If you have a fairly good inkling that you have a sediment problem...and you suspect that you have an original valve/sediment bowl assembly.

Just buy a new valve sediment bowl assembly. Drain your tank, take the old one off. Clean your tank out as best as you can... put in the new assembly.

Completely eliminate this as a cause; while replacing something that's going to need replacing at some point anyway.

Sure... you could have a spark issue too.

But, I'm here to tell you that sometimes distraction is worse than buying another part.

Right now, when thinking about fuel vs spark, you're weighing the difference between two 75 year old systems... and trying to buy the least number of parts... that's a new machine philosophy, where you're trying to get the most out of a new machine.

You've already won! If you've gotten 75 years out of any system on that tractor, and you think it might be giving you problems, just either replace or rebuild it...it will be good for another 75 years.



(opinions in this email mine and mine alone, not the opinions of Yesterday's Tractors, or even many of the patrons) ;-)

 

[kossuth]

DITTO