Case 530 Zenith Carb

[TractorDan530]

I took the carb off my '61 Case 530 with the G-159 engine to clean it. Saved the gasket because it's not butchered but the carb is POURING fuel out of this port as soon as I open the valve from the tank now. Reinspected and referred to my pictures BEFORE ultrasonic cleaning and there wasn't a plug in it to begin with - any experience with this?

 

[wore out]

Your carb is ''running over'' due to the rising float not being able to shut off gas entering the carburetor through the inlet needle valve and seat, for whatever reason, debris in the needle valve and seat, bent float, heavy float, and so on.

There's supposed to be a sintered bronze disc (or in some older versions) a ''horsehair'' ''filter'' in the drain hole to let gasoline out, but keep dirt from being sucked in.

You need to figure out why the inlet valve can't do it's job, and put some sort of filter in the open drain hole.

GOOGLE ''Marvel Schebler 95-78''.

Some guys drill out the hole and tap it for 1/8'' pipe thread and install a screw-in filter commonly used in pneumatic systems.

 

[TractorDan530]

What bewilders me; it ran before I touched it.... of course.

It ran poorly - I pulled TONS of rust out of the sediment bowl, in line filter, and bowl of carb but it RAN before I cleaned it. I bought a kit which has a gasket replacement - hoping the gasket is the big
issue between the seal and overpour.

 

[tomturkey]

Usually each kit has the information for setting the level of the float. Did you set the float level or assume it was ok since it ran before? You definitely have float needle valve problems, and of course the filter at the hole in the bottom which has been addressed by another. I was taught to turn the carburetor upside down and try to blow air into the fuel inlet, if the float and needle valve are working you should not be able to blow any air in. Likewise when you turn the carb rightside up you should be able to blow air into the carb. Maybe you already know all of this, just trying to be helpful. gobble

 

[Tgrasher]

I believe your problem has been addressed so I just want to add that it will save you a lot of headache and gas if you put a shutoff on the gas line. The needle valves we get today are not reliable. Too many times I turned the key only to flood my tractor and wash the cylinder walls with a gush of gas that then runs down into the oil. Sediment bowl shut offs wear out eventually and begin leaking. Put a ball valve shut off either after the sediment bowl or just at the carburetor. I use a 1/8 npt ball valve on all my gas tractors and never have a gas problem.