Cub throwout yoke hits clutch pressure plate when depressed, cause?

Poonie

Member
I finally got yo test out my new clutch yesterday. The problem I'm having is the throwout bearing yoke hits the adjustment screws on tje pressure plate when depressing the clutch. I backed the yoke off but now the freeplay is like 2 1/2 inches. The clutch is working now but is this acceptable? Tje book says to maintain 1 inch of freeplay.

BTW, the yoke is not bent.
 
I finally got yo test out my new clutch yesterday. The problem I'm having is the throwout bearing yoke hits the adjustment screws on tje pressure plate when depressing the clutch. I backed the yoke off but now the freeplay is like 2 1/2 inches. The clutch is working now but is this acceptable? Tje book says to maintain 1 inch of freeplay.

BTW, the yoke is not bent.
Something bent? If not it's a fine line, tweeking it back and forth. Is it a new throw out "bearing"?
 
T.O. bearing is brand new. The roller bearing type. Clutch parts are all brand new. I just installed them. The pressure plate fingers were measured at 7/8ths of an inch as per what I'm told they should be. I did reuse the original yoke as it was in good shape.

Like I mentioned, it works fine now, but the freeplay is much more than what the book says.

Maybe I had adjusted it too close to the pressure plate, but I did as the book said which is to maintain 1/8 inch of clearance between the throw out bearing and the fingers. Right now the T.O. bearing is sitting about 3/8 or so out. But, it's working.
 
T.O. bearing is brand new. The roller bearing type. Clutch parts are all brand new. I just installed them. The pressure plate fingers were measured at 7/8ths of an inch as per what I'm told they should be. I did reuse the original yoke as it was in good shape.

Like I mentioned, it works fine now, but the freeplay is much more than what the book says.

Maybe I had adjusted it too close to the pressure plate, but I did as the book said which is to maintain 1/8 inch of clearance between the throw out bearing and the fingers. Right now the T.O. bearing is sitting about 3/8 or so out. But, it's working.
7/8" is much too close. IIRC they should be 1-1/4" but most new pressure plates can't be adjusted out that far because the adjustment screws are too short. I think 1-1/8" is attainable.
 
That explains things then. It's what I get for listening to a YouTube video. I have an operators manual not a repair manual and mine only mentions clearance of the throwout bearing to the fingers. I'll be adjusting them today.

I just hope I didn't damage anything. I just replaced a bent input shaft and the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and clutch plate. Luckily As soon as I heard the noise, I backed off the clutch. The yoke got a little nicked up but that's all I noticed.
 
YouTube is a mixed bag of "information". Some videos are very good. Others are full of bad advise. A fundamental problem is that anyone can post anything on YouTube and there is no quality control. Sites like this one are usually more reliable. A post can still have wrong information. But someone else will usually come along before long and correct it. You may still not know who was right. But at least you know what question needs some more checking.
 
To add, you say you don’t have a repair manual so this will not be your excuse. If you bought a new or rebuilt pressure plate in this day and age they come preset, the product providers set up the clutch to just be bolted on. What happens often is repair manuals are written for a time when the pressure plate was disassembled by the dealer and rebuilt/refurbished in house. So as a final step to that, the adjustment process is given. So often folks read this and go to “adjustin” many times failing to do it right. And then of course their clutch does not work right. Check your PM letter/envelope icon at the top, I have some more info for you.
 
Thanks guys. Appreciate the help. I adjusted the fingers out about another quarter inch, then reset the freeplay from there and now the clutch is working great.

I think the 7/8ths inch as set by the factory must be either a starting point, or a minimum. The videos I watched made no mention of moving the fingers after installing the new clutch. Another video did show how to adjust the fingers. It went easy from your advice and that video.

Now onto the next issues.
 
. . . If you bought a new or rebuilt pressure plate in this day and age they come preset, the product providers set up the clutch to just be bolted on. . . .
I always thought that was true, and at one time it was. These days, a lot of them seem to arrive without being adjusted. At least a number of people have reported that problem with the imported clutches for the Cub. Some of the vendors have realized this and readjust them before shipping. Others don't. I have seen a (non-confirmed) report that the "S" company does this, unfortunately using the 7/8 setting rather than 1-1/4. I have also seen speculation that the 7/8 adjustment is correct for some other non-Cub application. If so, good source of confusion.

Bottom line to me is learn how to adjust it and do it before installation.
 
I always thought that was true, and at one time it was. These days, a lot of them seem to arrive without being adjusted. At least a number of people have reported that problem with the imported clutches for the Cub. Some of the vendors have realized this and readjust them before shipping. Others don't. I have seen a (non-confirmed) report that the "S" company does this, unfortunately using the 7/8 setting rather than 1-1/4. I have also seen speculation that the 7/8 adjustment is correct for some other non-Cub application. If so, good source of confusion.

Bottom line to me is learn how to adjust it and do it before installation.
You are correct Jim, erring on the side of caution is probably a better practice.
 
I always thought that was true, and at one time it was. These days, a lot of them seem to arrive without being adjusted. At least a number of people have reported that problem with the imported clutches for the Cub. Some of the vendors have realized this and readjust them before shipping. Others don't. I have seen a (non-confirmed) report that the "S" company does this, unfortunately using the 7/8 setting rather than 1-1/4. I have also seen speculation that the 7/8 adjustment is correct for some other non-Cub application. If so, good source of confusion.

Bottom line to me is learn how to adjust it and do it before installation.
One of the problems is that there's typically no consistency as to the "thickness" of lined discs now being sold, and even if the PP is properly adjusted for a "correct" lined disc the fingers may be way "off" with the actual lined disc you receive.
 
I always thought that was true, and at one time it was. These days, a lot of them seem to arrive without being adjusted. At least a number of people have reported that problem with the imported clutches for the Cub. Some of the vendors have realized this and readjust them before shipping. Others don't. I have seen a (non-confirmed) report that the "S" company does this, unfortunately using the 7/8 setting rather than 1-1/4. I have also seen speculation that the 7/8 adjustment is correct for some other non-Cub application. If so, good source of confusion.

Bottom line to me is learn how to adjust it and do it before
Well, I've learned my lesson. It wasn't that hard to adjust the fingers after installation but I would have done it ahead of time had I known. Now that I do know better, if there's ever a next time, I will adjust them first.
 
One of the problems is that there's typically no consistency as to the "thickness" of lined discs now being sold, . . .
I haven't seen measurements from anyone checking that particular dimension. But I don't doubt it for a minute. I don't know the actual lever ratio of the clutch fingers. It must be at least 3:1. If each lining is 1/32 over thickness (not much!), the whole disk will be 1/16 over and the ends of the fingers will be off by at least 3/16. That is more than half the difference between 7/8 and 1-1/4.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top