Looks like I'll be splitting the cub.

[Poonie]

I've been freeing up the sticky clutch pedal the last day or so. Spraying PB blast etc. Got the pedal retracting fine. New spring works good. Tractor had no springs on the pdeals at all. I decoded to look inside the inspection hole in the bell housing. Looks like my throwout bearing is shot. The graphite material is chipped amd breaking apart. The fingers on the pressure plate have about a half inch gap between them and throwout bearing. I was hoping not to have to split the tractor but it looks now like I don't have a choice. Any tricks I need to know before doing this? I have an engine hoist so plan to use that to hold up the front end after ai split the cub in half, and brace up the back woth jack stamds and chocks. Anything special regarding changing out the clutch disc, pressure plate, etc? Anything I should be looking for?

This post was edited by Poonie on 11/01/2023 at 11:31 am.

 

[Charlie M]

Its a good time to change the rear engine seal if it needs it.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Nope. Cub's about as small and simple as they come. Ideal first tractor splitting project for a beginner.

Oh one thing, make sure you wedge the front end so the engine can't tip over once separated from the rear end.

One other thing, but this holds true for ANY split job: Don't force it back together at all costs. If it won't go back, wiggle it some more, turn the flywheel slightly, but NEVER take the bolts and try to draw the tractor together by force!

 

[Jim Becker]

As soon as you get the replacement bearing, soak it in a container of thin oil. Let it soak as long as possible, at least overnight. Then pump it full of cheap grease when you are ready to install it.

 

[560Dennis]

I got my C clutch and pressure plate and pilot bearing here from YT parts . Suggest getting flywheel turn and checked for cracks. Hows the
ring gear on it ?

 

[Janicholson]

I'll add a bit. Using long bolts with the heads cut off can help in putting it back together. And wedging means putting tapered blocks between the front axle on each side where it enters the casting of the front bolster. These prevent the front from tipping sideways. Jim

 

[ken44520978]

I read a lot of posts before replacing the through out bearing in mine. Many comments about the graphite
bearing no longer available from IH and the replacements all come from China aren't any good. Also not to
use aftermarket ball or roller bearings as they don't hold up. I put a graphite bearing in and used the
tractor about two hours and the graphite disintgrated. Yes I soaked it in oil and greased it before
installation. Then I purchased and installed the after market ball or roller type from YT and have been
very pleased with it. Seems to be the only way to go.

 

[Poonie]

I assume YT parts is Yesterday's Tractors? Do they sell throwout beatings that don't use graphite, but rollers?

 

[grandpa Love]

60+ cubs here, I personally like the
graphite puck.. wife and I can split, swap
clutch, pressure plate, throw out puck and
pilot bushing, then drive the cub out of
the shop in about an hour.

 

[Poonie]

So, one person says the graphite throwout bearings are trash, another likes them. Also mentioned, a non graphite bearing, but then mentioned not supposed to use aftermarket non graphite bearings. I'm very confused. Can someone clarify. Thanks.

This post was edited by Poonie on 11/02/2023 at 07:19 am.

 

[Janicholson]

Graphite bearings can be workable if the fingers on the pressure plate are smooth and would be easy on the graphite. The other option is to use a ball type bearing and carrier. This is the info for the ball bearing style. I recommend the ball bearing replacement. It comes from caseih.com web site parts store. Jim
350921R11
BALL BEARING 32.54mm ID x 60.22mm OD x 26.99mm W
BEARING AND RETAINER W/FITTING, 109454, clutch release

 

[560Dennis]

Here is the link to YT (yesterdays parts ) for you to look over . https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?
SearchArea=Farmall&&md=Cub&cat=Clutch&r=mcats
Take your time look over( measures) everything while you have it open ,suggest now the time to fix. Enjoy the project , dont hesitate to ask
us .
60 year old tractors going to more wear issues to be addressed. Have fun

 

[Poonie]

Thanks. I see they have a link at the top of the page. I'm leaning toward the automotive type non graphite or carbon throwout bearing. Seems like it'll hold up better than graphite or carbon. From the condition of the one in my tractor, and the posts mentioning the graphite bearings failing and disintegrating, I think that's how I'm going.

This post was edited by Poonie on 11/02/2023 at 11:11 am.

 

[Jim Becker]

Some of the replacement ball bearing units also failed within a day or two. Some of them were cut open to find they were plain ball bearings, not thrust bearings. I don't know what the current ones are like.

Many of the aftermarket graphite bearings were shipped dry, not presoaked in oil. The IH ones were presoaked. Early failures of aftermarket ones were probably as much due to this as to any shortcoming of the graphite block. This is why I recommend presoaking the new graphite bearings before installing. "Soft" graphite has also been reported by some.

The fundamental problem with the ball bearings is the hanger for the bearing. Most throwout bearings are carried on a sleeve that is concentric to the input shaft and the crankshaft. The Cub bearing hanger is an assembly of parts that hangs and pivots from above the bearing. Thus the bearing moves in an arc. Thus even if a ball bearing is concentric to the crankshaft at some point, it will not be through the whole arc. Additionally, any wear, unintended bends, or assembly variation will add to the misalignment. So the bearing and pressure plate do not maintain constant alignment. The throwout bearing will be moving on the fingers. This is steel on steel movement. That is why I stick with the graphite bearings that are designed for movement between it and the fingers.

The 350921R11 part number from CaseIH is the number for the IH graphite bearing. I doubt that they changed to a ball bearing and kept the same part number. It is more likely that somebody not familiar with parts they quit using 45 years ago made a mistake in the description, assuming it was a ball bearing.