Ford tractor help

pineapplewin

New User
Hi! I need help with what kind of tractor this is and where to get parts for it. It ran for the last two years then when I went to start a few month back she's dead in place. It turns over and over but will not fire up. What I've done is drain/replace fuel, carb clean, new battery and spark plugs. It is getting fuel when cranking over. What else could I trouble shoot?? Thank you so much for any help or suggestions :)
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Hi! I need help with what kind of tractor this is and where to get parts for it. It ran for the last two years then when I went to start a few month back she's dead in place. It turns over and over but will not fire up. What I've done is drain/replace fuel, carb clean, new battery and spark plugs. It is getting fuel when cranking over. What else could I trouble shoot?? Thank you so much for any help or suggestions :) View attachment 62300View attachment 62301
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The points are likely corroded and not making contact. Watch the video starting at 14:30 for info on making it start. Jim
 
Hello pineapple, welcome to YT! I don’t know where all the Ford guys are. Of course there is a Ford forum in the manufacturers section where most of them hang out. I am no expert but I believe you may have a “thousand” series Ford tractor. Look at this link down towards the bottom of the page, it shows you where to find the serial numbers that will ID your tractor.
Ford 3000 on Tractordata
I am just guessing it is a 3000 model.
 
Hi! I need help with what kind of tractor this is and where to get parts for it. It ran for the last two years then when I went to start a few month back she's dead in place. It turns over and over but will not fire up. What I've done is drain/replace fuel, carb clean, new battery and spark plugs. It is getting fuel when cranking over. What else could I trouble shoot?? Thank you so much for any help or suggestions :) View attachment 62300View attachment 62301
FORD INDUSTRIAL Model. 6V or 12V? 3 or 4 CYL? Get an I&T F0-31 Service Manual to start with. 1st check is always the battery. Cranking with no start usually is a dead battery. Get it tested. Get new if weak or dead. 2nd is the Fuel Flow Test. Leave carb rebuild last til flow test/obstructions are proved OK. If both pass, problem is electrical. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. Get the Manual and start reading. DO NOT BUY any more parts and start replacing willy-nilly. How do you know old is defective? Did you test it? Did you do a spark test? Were plugs dry or fouled? Parts readily available everywhere. Try here at YTMAG - see the RED icon "SHOP NOW" at the RH top of this page? Click on it for part suppliers. Other places like STEINERS too have parts. In my neck of the woods, you can't swing a cat without hitting a FORD TRACTOR of some kind. Oh, I see you already swung one...


Tim Daley (MI)
 

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Original appearing yellow paint means that it is the industrial kind. What do you mean by "it is getting fuel"? Whatever you mean, unless the spark plugs are getting wet with gas it doesn't count.
 
Start with a basic spark check. Pull the center wire from the distributor cap and hold it 1/8-1/4" from the engine block wile cranking over the engine. You should see a consistent strong spark snapping across the gap, pop-pop-pop-pop...
 
Thanks so much! I'm going to clean them and if that dosnt work sounds like I can buy a tune up kit to replace
pineapplewin
My idea of a spark tester. I use a jumper cable. Clamp the spark plug with one end and ground the other end of the jumper cable.
Attach the spark plug to the wire coming out of the coil.
If you don't have jumper cables just hang on to the spark plug.
You will know instantly if you have a spark.
 
Do yourself a favor and don't cheap out. Buy this adjustable spark tester. Set it at a quarter inch and see if the spark jumps a quarter inch. It always helps to have the right tools for the job you're doing.

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