Transmission inspection

[JJay48]

I am in the middle of trying to restore my 8n to its original glory. I seem to remember the trans would sometimes want to grind going into gear and I would have to double clutch it and then it was usually fine. I want to make sure the trans is good before I put everything back together.

Any tips on what I should look for? How far apart do I need to take it down for a good inspection? This tractor was mostly driven very easy by my grandpa most of its life. I was the one who was probably the hardest on it at a young age. My dad changed the hydraulic/gear oil at one point and not sure what he used as its been such a long time ago so not sure if that had anything to do with it. I know some manual trans cars can be picky with the transmission fluid and shifting.

Thanks

 

[old]

I am in the middle of trying to restore my 8n to its original glory. I seem to remember the trans would sometimes want to grind going into gear and I would have to double clutch it and then it was usually fine. I want to make sure the trans is good before I put everything back together.

Any tips on what I should look for? How far apart do I need to take it down for a good inspection? This tractor was mostly driven very easy by my grandpa most of its life. I was the one who was probably the hardest on it at a young age. My dad changed the hydraulic/gear oil at one point and not sure what he used as its been such a long time ago so not sure if that had anything to do with it. I know some manual trans cars can be picky with the transmission fluid and shifting.

Thanks

Well if your trying to shift on the fly that is your problem these tractors are made to be shifted when stopped. If your saying it grinds from the get go the clutch maybe needing to be adjusted

 

[JJay48]

Well if your trying to shift on the fly that is your problem these tractors are made to be shifted when stopped. If your saying it grinds from the get go the clutch maybe needing to be adjusted

It was grinding some from a stop at times when trying to go into gear. My thought was the clutch probably needs adjusted as well.

If you bought a used transmission what would you look for before you put it in your tractor? I might just have a family member who works at a transmission shop help me go through it. It does not look too complicated to disassemble watching some of the videos online. Just putting it back together and making sure all the tolerances are correct is what I was hesitant about.

 

[old]

It was grinding some from a stop at times when trying to go into gear. My thought was the clutch probably needs adjusted as well.

If you bought a used transmission what would you look for before you put it in your tractor? I might just have a family member who works at a transmission shop help me go through it. It does not look too complicated to disassemble watching some of the videos online. Just putting it back together and making sure all the tolerances are correct is what I was hesitant about.

Bearings are a big thing to look at as well as any seals. Also chips in gear teeth

 

[wore out]

Well if your trying to shift on the fly that is your problem these tractors are made to be shifted when stopped. If your saying it grinds from the get go the clutch maybe needing to be adjusted

8N's, with their constant mesh collar shift transmission, are the easiest tractors to shift "on the fly" that I've ever driven.

Most anyone with a little experience driving them should be able to master that. If they can't, better not ever turn 'em loose with a 10 or 15 speed Roadranger!

 

[old]

8N's, with their constant mesh collar shift transmission, are the easiest tractors to shift "on the fly" that I've ever driven.

Most anyone with a little experience driving them should be able to master that. If they can't, better not ever turn 'em loose with a 10 or 15 speed Roadranger!

I've never had luck shifting on the fly with the 8N but have driven over 1 million miles on a road ranger 10 speed or a twin stick

 

[Hobo,NC]

I am in the middle of trying to restore my 8n to its original glory. I seem to remember the trans would sometimes want to grind going into gear and I would have to double clutch it and then it was usually fine. I want to make sure the trans is good before I put everything back together.

Any tips on what I should look for? How far apart do I need to take it down for a good inspection? This tractor was mostly driven very easy by my grandpa most of its life. I was the one who was probably the hardest on it at a young age. My dad changed the hydraulic/gear oil at one point and not sure what he used as its been such a long time ago so not sure if that had anything to do with it. I know some manual trans cars can be picky with the transmission fluid and shifting.

Thanks

A 8N transmission is as basic as it gets, follow the manual on setting it up its basic 101. You can forgo most all if not all the special tools listed in the manual to get the bearing off use your head.

 

[JJay48]

A 8N transmission is as basic as it gets, follow the manual on setting it up its basic 101. You can forgo most all if not all the special tools listed in the manual to get the bearing off use your head.

Thanks. I may totally gut all the cases.

 

[JJay48]

Do most people just put a bolt back in the clutch fork when putting it back together instead of the stock pin? The trans was not so intimidating once I got in there and took it apart. Trying to decide if I should replace the bearings and races while I am in there cleaning everything.

I also thought there was suppose to be a cap on the clutch side of the top shifter rod to keep fluid from leaking into the clutch area. Mine had fallen out and I think I found it in the bottom by the cotter pin drain hole.

1948 8N rebuild progress

Worked outside most of the day but I did take some time to heat and remove the draft control yoke and plunger spring. I also removed the lift control quadrant. Next ill pull off the lift housing.

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Unless restoring a harden bolt with lock nut is fine, IMO

 

[Hidude]

My 8n leaked oil from the shift rail of the tranny and sherman combo after rebuild and switching to utf (red dye added) from gear oil. I had to go back and install the Welch plug and replace the combo top cover to stop the leaks. I had drive a 70 mile round trip to find the 75 cent plugs at napa. Maybe I should have tried gear oil again instead of all the hassle I went through fixing the leaks?

 

[JJay48]

My 8n leaked oil from the shift rail of the tranny and sherman combo after rebuild and switching to utf (red dye added) from gear oil. I had to go back and install the Welch plug and replace the combo top cover to stop the leaks. I had drive a 70 mile round trip to find the 75 cent plugs at napa. Maybe I should have tried gear oil again instead of all the hassle I went through fixing the leaks?

I thought a plug went there but no one had replied yet. Found mine in the bottom of the trans by the drain hole with the cotter pin. Dumb question but how does that Welch plug install? Just pound it in with a socket…Did you use any sealant? Whats the part number from Napa?

Thanks

 

[zuhnc]

@JJay48 - It should be domed slightly to drop into the bore. Then tap the dome with a hammer to expand the plug and seat in the bore. Clean the bore and use some sealant when reinstalling. You can re-dome the original plug by using a socket slightly smaller than the plug, setting the plug on the open end of the socket and tapping the inside of the plug with a ball pein hammer. That will dome it and slightly shrink it in diameter, to fit the bore into which it goes. zuhnc

 

[JJay48]

Thanks!

 

[Hidude]

Heres the part # from napa that I got. Similar to above...I used a little anaerobic sealer on the plug, tapped it in then set it with the female end of a 3/8 extension. Hitting the male end to flatten the plug a little. No pressure on it so it just needs to stay in place.

 

[wore out]

I thought a plug went there but no one had replied yet. Found mine in the bottom of the trans by the drain hole with the cotter pin. Dumb question but how does that Welch plug install? Just pound it in with a socket…Did you use any sealant? Whats the part number from Napa?

Thanks

Official installation instructions.