JD 4010 pto ?

[cowboy12]

New to John Deere restoration;
Recently purchased a 4010 gas, stub pto was broken off. Have to extract the four bolts.

Question 1. How long are the bolts that hold the stub on?

Question 2. The center pin ( 540 / 1000 rpm ) needs to be in or out for 540 rpm?

The reason I ask.... I have seen six spline pto stubs that are solid ( no hole in the center), and some that have a hole allowing the center pin to extend.

I can fix it either way. Just need to know pin in or pin out for 540 rpm?

 

[wore out]

New to John Deere restoration;
Recently purchased a 4010 gas, stub pto was broken off. Have to extract the four bolts.

Question 1. How long are the bolts that hold the stub on?

Question 2. The center pin ( 540 / 1000 rpm ) needs to be in or out for 540 rpm?

The reason I ask.... I have seen six spline pto stubs that are solid ( no hole in the center), and some that have a hole allowing the center pin to extend.

I can fix it either way. Just need to know pin in or pin out for 540 rpm?

Bolts are 3/8" X 1-1/8", Deere #19H2552.

I believe the OEM bolts are Grade 5, some of us prefer to upgrade to Grade 8.

Pin is depressed for 540, extended for 1000.

Good luck with your project, hopefully the internally shifting parts (pin) haven't been damaged when the bolts broke.

When bolting the "540" stub in place it's important to rotate the shaft a little in both directions to ensure that the shift collar splines match up and engage or the internal pin (and possibly other parts) that do the shifting will not be damaged, which WILL happen if the stub is drawn up tight with the bolts without the splines being lined up.

 

[cowboy12]

I currently have a six spline stub with a center hole. Accordingly, that would allow 1000 rpm. I will thus mill a corresponding pin to be placed into the hole, thereby depressing the pin.

Anyone see any potential problems in doing this?

 

[cowboy12]

A big THANK YOU to wore out

 

[wore out]

Accordingly, that would allow 1000 rpm. I will thus mill a corresponding pin to be placed into the hole, thereby depressing the pin.

Anyone see any potential problems in doing this?

"I currently have a six spline stub with a center hole."

That seems VERY strange!

I wonder if someone modified it or it was made for some another application?

A thought, just to be absolutely sure I've given you the correct information you could start the tractor and engage the PTO without the stub shaft and observe how fast the shaft in the tractor turns, if 540 as we suspect it will turn noticeably slow at engine idle.

As to making a pin to press in, I believe the OEM shaft is a little "proud" in that area, but I don't know how much, and that would be important to make the shift collar fully engage without pressing the long rod too far and bending the pin in the shift collar.

 

[cowboy12]

"I currently have a six spline stub with a center hole."

That seems VERY strange!

I wonder if someone modified it or it was made for some another application?

A thought, just to be absolutely sure I've given you the correct information you could start the tractor and engage the PTO without the stub shaft and observe how fast the shaft in the tractor turns, if 540 as we suspect it will turn noticeably slow at engine idle.

As to making a pin to press in, I believe the OEM shaft is a little "proud" in that area, but I don't know how much, and that would be important to make the shift collar fully engage without pressing the long rod too far and bending the pin in the shift collar.

True part # of AR28572. Appears to be original part. Hole depth of approximately 5/8 inch.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

"I currently have a six spline stub with a center hole."

That seems VERY strange!

I wonder if someone modified it or it was made for some another application?

A thought, just to be absolutely sure I've given you the correct information you could start the tractor and engage the PTO without the stub shaft and observe how fast the shaft in the tractor turns, if 540 as we suspect it will turn noticeably slow at engine idle.

As to making a pin to press in, I believe the OEM shaft is a little "proud" in that area, but I don't know how much, and that would be important to make the shift collar fully engage without pressing the long rod too far and bending the pin in the shift collar.

I can see someone wanting that for generator work if that’s what they did with it or tedding or some low hp requirement to save fuel. It’s probably more expensive than an adapter but if you had some specific thing you wanted or not enough space for the adapter I can see someone making one or maybe they sold them even. Nowadays some tractors you can shift in the cab regardless of shaft or adapter on there if you wanted to use 1 1000 rpm shaft for everything you could move it along with you like the old hydraulic cylinders hanging on the back of the tractor if all your input gearboxes happened to be the same size. Although it might be wise to disconnect both ends...