Finally getting my 2N to limp around.

Took off the fuel bowl, took off the shut off valve cleaned them up, flushed the tank with fresh fuel.
Put a tiny inline fuel filter above the carb. The tractor starts right up and seems to run well.

Took it for a spin, clutch still sticking gotta be careful. lol The tractor did fine until I tried to put it back in it's spot, up a small grade. Sputtered and died on the hill with a sticky clutch. Got it started and got it up the hill by "feathering" the choke.

The fuel filter is clear, it has not accumulated any debris yet. The filter does not stay full, yet the tractor still runs.

While I was watching the filter I noticed popping coming from the breather stack. I put my ear near it and it has a constant, erratic popping noise. Is this normal?

Thank you, FoT
 
Took off the fuel bowl, took off the shut off valve cleaned them up, flushed the tank with fresh fuel.
Put a tiny inline fuel filter above the carb. The tractor starts right up and seems to run well.

Took it for a spin, clutch still sticking gotta be careful. lol The tractor did fine until I tried to put it back in it's spot, up a small grade. Sputtered and died on the hill with a sticky clutch. Got it started and got it up the hill by "feathering" the choke.

The fuel filter is clear, it has not accumulated any debris yet. The filter does not stay full, yet the tractor still runs.

While I was watching the filter I noticed popping coming from the breather stack. I put my ear near it and it has a constant, erratic popping noise. Is this normal?

Thank you, FoT
Most of the time and in line filter causes more problems then it ever fixes. Try this. Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes. I'll bet you don't have that but would if you remove the in line filter
 
Took off the fuel bowl, took off the shut off valve cleaned them up, flushed the tank with fresh fuel.
Put a tiny inline fuel filter above the carb. The tractor starts right up and seems to run well.

Took it for a spin, clutch still sticking gotta be careful. lol The tractor did fine until I tried to put it back in it's spot, up a small grade. Sputtered and died on the hill with a sticky clutch. Got it started and got it up the hill by "feathering" the choke.

The fuel filter is clear, it has not accumulated any debris yet. The filter does not stay full, yet the tractor still runs.

While I was watching the filter I noticed popping coming from the breather stack. I put my ear near it and it has a constant, erratic popping noise. Is this normal?

Thank you, FoT
You don't need any extra aftermarket fuel filters in the Ford Fuel System There are 3 in the OEM one. Cleaning them as part of SOP PM is required. The 3rd one often neglected is the Brass Fuel Inlet Elbow on the Card to Fuel line. There's a fine mesh screen attached to the elbow and often gets plugged. Never use rubber, plastic, copper, aluminum, or nylon for the fuel line. Always use the OEM 1/4" SS style.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)
 

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Inline filters can cause problems. If they go dry sometimes gravity won't let the line/filter re-prime, and you have to disconnect the line above the filter to get the fuel flowing again (done that). Most inline filters sold now are designed to work with fuel pump equipped systems.

I'd replace the fuel line with some Ni/copper brake line and ditch the inline filter.
 
If you keep the inline filter buy a fire extinguisher. Before going further I would do a compression test.
 
Inline filters have saved me a lot of trouble with my old Ford cars and trucks.
Technically any filter between the tank and carb is an "inline" filter. I do understand what you are all saying. All of the original schtuff seems to be missing. My next step is a compression test. The bowl has no filter and the elbow on the carb is gone. My first priority is to stop wasting money on this project. I am doing the bare minimum that needs to be done to get it running. After that, if it is worth repairing I'll start putting it back to original as best as I can.

What about the popping I am hearing through the air breather?
 
Inline filters can cause problems. If they go dry sometimes gravity won't let the line/filter re-prime, and you have to disconnect the line above the filter to get the fuel flowing again (done that). Most inline filters sold now are designed to work with fuel pump equipped systems.

I'd replace the fuel line with some Ni/copper brake line and ditch the inline filter.
Everything is in a straight line below the tank, no issues with gravity feed here.
 
Inline filters have saved me a lot of trouble with my old Ford cars and trucks.
Technically any filter between the tank and carb is an "inline" filter. I do understand what you are all saying. All of the original schtuff seems to be missing. My next step is a compression test. The bowl has no filter and the elbow on the carb is gone. My first priority is to stop wasting money on this project. I am doing the bare minimum that needs to be done to get it running. After that, if it is worth repairing I'll start putting it back to original as best as I can.

What about the popping I am hearing through the air breather?
The problem with in line filters on a tractor is the fact there is no fuel pump and most in line filters are made for systems with a fuel pump and they in turn need 5-7 plus PSI of fuel pressure to work and with out the pressure they don't work. The sediment bowl filter and the elbow are easy to come up with since most farm and home stores carry them as well as many auto parts tores
 
It would sure be nice to get the actual question I asked answered, instead of all of the unsolicited advice. I do not want to buy any more parts for this tractor if it is trash.

I have the tool to do a compression test, just no time currently.

I did the fuel flow test suggested up thread, and I got a cup of fuel through the filter in way less than a minute. That is plenty of flow to do any troubleshooting. Gravity flow fuel filters have worked fine on many early motorcycles, including high performance 4 cylinder bikes.
 
It would sure be nice to get the actual question I asked answered, instead of all of the unsolicited advice. I do not want to buy any more parts for this tractor if it is trash.

I have the tool to do a compression test, just no time currently.

I did the fuel flow test suggested up thread, and I got a cup of fuel through the filter in way less than a minute. That is plenty of flow to do any troubleshooting. Gravity flow fuel filters have worked fine on many early motorcycles, including high performance 4 cylinder bikes.
Ah but do you get that flow out of the carb drain plug??If you don't get it out the drain plug then you don't have the fuel you need inside the carb
 
Ah but do you get that flow out of the carb drain plug??If you don't get it out the drain plug then you don't have the fuel you need inside the carb
I don't agree, the carb can only use and accept so much fuel. If it's not coming out in sufficient volume from the drain plug, it is not due to the filter. I do not believe the carb should have the free flow as an unobstructed filter.
 
I don't agree, the carb can only use and accept so much fuel. If it's not coming out in sufficient volume from the drain plug, it is not due to the filter. I do not believe the carb should have the free flow as an unobstructed filter.
Well I have been working on tractors for decades now and that is a test I have done hundreds of times on most any brand and if I don't get the more the a pint out of the drain plug in less then 2 minutes you have a carb problem. Been working on tractors since 1980 and many others engines long before that as in when I was 12 or so I started working on lawn mowers
 
It would sure be nice to get the actual question I asked answered, instead of all of the unsolicited advice. I do not want to buy any more parts for this tractor if it is trash.

I have the tool to do a compression test, just no time currently.

I did the fuel flow test suggested up thread, and I got a cup of fuel through the filter in way less than a minute. That is plenty of flow to do any troubleshooting. Gravity flow fuel filters have worked fine on many early motorcycles, including high performance 4 cylinder bikes.
A fairly constant popping noise in the intake or exhaust can be caused by a valve that is not opening far enough. On a flat head that would mean the adjustment gap has gotten far to wide or the cam lobe is worn way down. It could be an intake valve not sealing properly but usually that is accompanied by back firing. We shall see what your compression test shows. Remember the throttle plate should be open and not in the idle position during a compression test.
 
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both of my tractors came with an in-line filter. neither has a fuel pump. neither has a problem.
FORD N-'s & Hundreds never used a Fuel Pump sir... your tractor, your money, your time, - do whatever you want ---just SAYNG no EXTRA FUEL FILTER IS NEEDED ON THESE OLD fORDS ---ANOTHER MYTH PERPETUATED BY THE UNEDUCaTED.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)
 
The popping from the intake could be intake valves not sealing, or just the oil in the air cleaner. I had tight valves on my 8n. Clearances were near .005" cold. It popped through the exhaust though.
 
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