Oil Additive for Sticking Engine Valve?

Ohiohills

Member
I've got a 1947 AC B tractor with what I suspect is a sticking valve. The engine has very few hours considering its age, but has recently been showing suspicious signs of a single valve sticking. Are there any solutions to this problem short of tearing into the engine?? Perhaps an oil additive such as STP or Lucas Honey??? Something less viscous? Any other thoughts?
 
I've got a 1947 AC B tractor with what I suspect is a sticking valve. The engine has very few hours considering its age, but has recently been showing suspicious signs of a single valve sticking. Are there any solutions to this problem short of tearing into the engine?? Perhaps an oil additive such as STP or Lucas Honey??? Something less viscous? Any other thoughts?
Try this. Add 1 quart of ATF to 3 gal of gas and run it on that mix that should help free it up plus clean up carbon deposits etc.
 
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I expected an exhaust valve on a 20 hp 20 year old Kohler command with 2000 hours was sticking while sitting over the winter.
I tried oil additives, ATF and nothing seemed to work.
I removed the spark plugs and sprayed sta-bil fogging oil in each cylinder.
That seemed to oil the exhaust valve and all is well.
It smoked a lot in the beginning.
If I use sta-bil fogging again, I'll do one cylinder at a time and run it until all the oil all burns off.
GDE22001.jpg
 
On a Case 4 cylinder I put air pressure to the sticking intake valve cylinder to hold it in place. Took the rocker loose to get it out of the way, took the lock, retainer, and spring off. Took a cordless drill and spun the valve while squirting it with transmission fluid. A pain but better than pulling head.
 
I've got a 1947 AC B tractor with what I suspect is a sticking valve. The engine has very few hours considering its age, but has recently been showing suspicious signs of a single valve sticking. Are there any solutions to this problem short of tearing into the engine?? Perhaps an oil additive such as STP or Lucas Honey??? Something less viscous? Any other thoughts?
 
I've heard people speak of a sticking valve before, but have no idea what that might mean. Certainly a bent valve would not pass freely through the guide, and I did encounter a small block chevy once that hadn't had an oil change in so long the burnt oil had turned to a hard, coke-like substance under the head of the valve preventing the valve from touching it's seat, but what do people mean when they say they have a sticking valve?
 
I freed up a valve on a Toyota truck by pouring some Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil.
It came loose before I got the pint poured in.
Some in the gas would not hurt either.
Cheap and won't hurt a thing.
 
I've got a 1947 AC B tractor with what I suspect is a sticking valve. The engine has very few hours considering its age, but has recently been showing suspicious signs of a single valve sticking. Are there any solutions to this problem short of tearing into the engine?? Perhaps an oil additive such as STP or Lucas Honey??? Something less viscous? Any other thoughts?
Speaking of sticking valves. One time instead of dumping a couple gallons of old gas out, I added it to one of my tractors. It didn't take long for a valve to start sticking. I had to remove the tank, to get at the valve cover, to get at the valve. What a mess. Now any old gas goes back to mother earth. Stan
 
This worked very well for me, may well apply to you. Uses oil- does not require "magic"... 6 yrs ago- my '50 Dodge , flat 6: 1 vlv, cyl 1 badly stuck open. Removed (combination) manifolds and "tappet" (lifter) cover. Rolled engine so valve stuck OPEN- OFF of cam lobe. Flooded valve/ guide with Marvel Myst oil using standard bench oil can. Then forced valve down- spring + my flat blade screw driver- straight. Was most stiff! Re flooded + rolled engine over to force valve open/ up. Roll motor- force down/oil as before. Repete . Oil+ repeat. Valve moved with only its spring. More oil- rolling/ checks. Mixed in some 30 wt. into oil can + repeat 2 X times. Set Lash and buttoned up. Has held to date. I doubt "spray goo into spark plug hole" (or add to fuel) would FIX much- but may Prevent troubles. Year ago I pulled head- seat pattern to block was good, vlv still moved freely. This both dissolves any Goo-lubes+ mechanically flushes any Grit. Cheaply. Good luck.
 
In these last two examples, was there something so stuck to the valve stem that it could no longer fit in the guide?
My #4 exhaust valve on Jubilee stuck open and the push rod fell out of place.
I put the push rod where it belonged. Sprayed the valve stem through the valve spring with WD40 and put about a tablespoon of wd40 inside the cylinder.
The tractor started on 3 cylinders and it didn't take long for the WD40 to free up the stuck valve.
Lesson learned, don't start the tractor and let it run for a few minutes. Start it and use it to mow the yard. Get it hot or don't start it at all.
 
I have good luck adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas if sticking valve is caused by old gas with alcohol. Old gas with alcohol builds up a varnish like substance on valve stem making them stick.
 
In these last two examples, was there something so stuck to the valve stem that it could no longer fit in the guide?
On my Dodge 230-6, Yes , the valve jammed open in guide. That is why the same or other oil or solvent would probably not work. The oil + movement did flush-lubricate-free it up. Low cost, medium work. My case- pulling manifolds better-and cheaper- option than pulling head.
 
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