Case 850D farm dozer track seperation

[Sampson]

I have a Case 850D. The right front idler is making a noise sounding like a reluctant brake dragging noise. Seem to be resisting to move. I am not sure it is resisting but sounds that way and seems slower to respond. The idler is hot on the right side and cool on the lft after being used about 1 1/2 hrs. I haven't taken a track off since 1981 on any machine! I do not see a master pin to drive out, to separate the tracks. I could some advice. Does this sound like a bearing issue? If so do you buy a bearing or buy the idler assembly. That's JS

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Master pins were on their way out when that machine was built, favoring the alligator track link which was held together with the bolts going through one of the pads. This joint is VERY easy to identify, even with the chain packed with mud. So, I assume you haven’t found it or you would have it apart by now.

At that age, I’m guessing your machine doesn’t have the original chains on it unless it has exceptionally low hours; so it is possible, if the chain was replaced with the original master pin style, that the chain you wish to break has had the pin installed backwards (or possibly the entire chain) so that it can’t be identified from the outside of the machine. You will have to crawl under there with a wire brush and look for a pin with a dimple in the center.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Regarding the front idler, find a reman. Even if rest of the U/C is totally shot it’s the only way to go if that dozer is worth putting fuel into.

If it’s getting hot, there is a lot going wrong in there. Everything is s as heavy force fit and there is already nothing salvageable other than the idler itself.

Only way I would consider opening that idler was if it were leaking, but we’re way past that.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

I am not sure on a D, would depend if original rails or replacement, the last one of that vintage we did at Case had a mast pin, but they were hard to find, if it has newer rails it could have alligator style, that link will have odd track pad bolt spacing and it looks solid instead of the hollow chain link kind of look!

 

[Sampson]

Its so hot and humid, rain yesterday these 72 yr old bones are procrastinating!

 

[Sampson]

The old girl is not to bad of shape for the year. About 3700 hours of use.

 

[Sampson]

Master pins were on their way out when that machine was built, favoring the alligator track link which was held together with the bolts going through one of the pads. This joint is VERY easy to identify, even with the chain packed with mud. So, I assume you haven’t found it or you would have it apart by now.

At that age, I’m guessing your machine doesn’t have the original chains on it unless it has exceptionally low hours; so it is possible, if the chain was replaced with the original master pin style, that the chain you wish to break has had the pin installed backwards (or possibly the entire chain) so that it can’t be identified from the outside of the machine. You will have to crawl under there with a wire brush and look for a pin with a dimple in the center.

 

[Sampson]

Hope these pics help identify the chain and how to split it apart. All the links look the same to me. The pins all have a dimple or small indention in the center.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

Aftermarket rails for sure, looks like you have a few pad bolts that need attention too, usually those KTR/ITR rails are alligator style but not always, better tighten them pad bolts or you can lose or break pads, or worse yet bust a rail. My experience has been that once ran for a bit you cant get the pad bolts tightened or loose and end up having to cut them off!

 

[Sampson]

Oh boy, I see there are several loose. Whenever I clean it up some I will break out the WD 40 and spray the bolts hope that helps.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

I'm with fritz if all the links look the same maybe someone got the rails on with master in backwards, cant remember on the pad bolt spacing if you can get the rail/pads on backwards, I'd have to see the sprocket and rails/pads to be sure

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The master link looks like this. If all the pins have dimples with a round post in the middle, those are sealed and lubricated tracks. The little round posts in the middle are plugs for the lubricant. You can’t see the joint in this picture but it is simply held together by the pad bolts. Pull the front idler up to a 6x6 so when you get the bolts out , the track doesn’t take off like a snake and unroll on someone.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

Thank you Fritz, I didn't have any pictures of an alligator link and the Komatsu I used to run is about 11 miles away and out in the mud right now!

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Thank you Fritz, I didn't have any pictures of an alligator link and the Komatsu I used to run is about 11 miles away and out in the mud right now!

That isn’t much of a picture , just pushed the D4 into the shop for an engine after sitting out for a couple years

 

[Janicholson]

Oh boy, I see there are several loose. Whenever I clean it up some I will break out the WD 40 and spray the bolts hope that helps.

WD-40 is OK if you choose the penetrating WD. regular WD-40 is not. It is a Water displacement tool, and dries up to nothing in a week. I use PB Blaster. Jim

 

[Sampson]

Your picture was a big help. I have looked this track over 3 or 4 times and just didn't see it! What is the best position to disassemble the track. I thought I would use a comealong to secure the tracks when I pull the bolts loose and the ratchet it down. I can use front end loader to assist if necessary. I don't want to do anything stupid here. My pic shows this link circled in blue. So I just pull the 4 bolts that hold the shoe on this link? I don't understand all I know about but it sure looks better than the way I assisted a good dozer mechanic 40 yrs ago!

The master link looks like this. If all the pins have dimples with a round post in the middle, those are sealed and lubricated tracks. The little round posts in the middle are plugs for the lubricant. You can’t see the joint in this picture but it is simply held together by the pad bolts. Pull the front idler up to a 6x6 so when you get the bolts out , the track doesn’t take off like a snake and unroll on someone.
View attachment 76946

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Your picture was a big help. I have looked this track over 3 or 4 times and just didn't see it! What is the best position to disassemble the track. I thought I would use a comealong to secure the tracks when I pull the bolts loose and the ratchet it down. I can use front end loader to assist if necessary. I don't want to do anything stupid here. My pic shows this link circled in blue. So I just pull the 4 bolts that hold the shoe on this link? I don't understand all I know about but it sure looks better than the way I assisted a good dozer mechanic 40 yrs ago!


View attachment 76981

That sounds like a plan… I would add that you be careful if you’re not a seasoned track man…this stuff is all bull work, and once things start moving they can get out of control real fast. Use long screwdrivers and pinch bars wherever possible and keep your fingers away from stuff that you don’t know which way its going to go. For instance, with that joint above the carrier roller, it will very likely stay together with the bolts out. But a couple taps with a hammer and it will come right apart. If the front idler is free to turn , the chain will unwind and flop out in front of the machine , and hopefully no one is standing there.

Don’t get in a hurry and pay attention to what you are doing , and you’ll be fine.

 

[Sampson]

That sounds like a plan… I would add that you be careful if you’re not a seasoned track man…this stuff is all bull work, and once things start moving they can get out of control real fast. Use long screwdrivers and pinch bars wherever possible and keep your fingers away from stuff that you don’t know which way its going to go. For instance, with that joint above the carrier roller, it will very likely stay together with the bolts out. But a couple taps with a hammer and it will come right apart. If the front idler is free to turn , the chain will unwind and flop out in front of the machine , and hopefully no one is standing there.

Don’t get in a hurry and pay attention to what you are doing , and you’ll be fine.

Thank you for helping me. I am an older man now and I won't set the pace very fast but I will get r done. Working outside in the sun and heat will be a slow process 2 hrs in the morning and a couple hours in the eve when time allows. I will take pics and keep you posted.

 

[caterpillar guy]

On the Cat we could not get the master pin apart so we cut the inside of the link next to the bushing and that relived the tension enough we could drive the pin out with a sledge and shaft. When we put it back together we welded the cut slot back up and it never moved in all these years which is about 45 . It needs rear sprockets and a set of chains for it. IF it was to be back like the original Cat chains. I do like those 20 inch pads in it though. As for that case track if I didn't find that alligator link I would probably do the same thing on it.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@caterpillar guy been there done that, even took a link out on the 48A to keep the rails on until we could get jobs done and have time to put the new ones on.